tiller epoxy?

briangsmith

Member II
my wooden tiller has dried out over the winter
and the layers are beginning to crack and separate-
any recomendations on an epoxy, or...?

bgs
 

Dave Hussey

Member III
I just did my tiller as you are about to...in fact the second coat went on today. I used MAAS epoxy from Boaters World. For the first coat I used medium setting catylist and it sagged before it set. I had to do a lot of sanding afterwards. The second coat I used fast catylist...it went off too fast and started to smoke! (scared the BJEEZUS out of me) So, after I sand this coat I think I'll give it a third coat and mix the catylist half and half so I get 5 more minutes of working time. It will look really nice when it's done.
Dave Hussey
 

NateHanson

Sustaining Member
If your tiller is actually delaminating, you'll want to get some epoxy into all the cracks, thickened slightly with microfibers. (I use WestSystem)

Then you'll want to clamp the tiller with as many clamps as you have as the epoxy sets. (every 4 inches would not be too many.) Then you'll need to sand off drips and mess that are left behind. After fixing the laminates like that, you can progress to epoxy coating it for a durable finish, but the primary step here is reattaching the laminates. If you just paint on epoxy the way it is now, you may have a weakened delaminated tiller under that shiney epoxy. :)
 

Steve Swann

Member III
Brian,

If your tiller is delaminating, I would suggest pulling it apart where you can and inspect for dry rot. The lighter wood (ash) tends to dry rot soonest. I had this experience with my Ericson 25. If it isn't dry rotted and you decide to use epoxy (which I think is a good choice), consider the following:

Do you have experience with epoxies and boats? This may come across and too basic, but we all want you to get good results. At the risk of sounding patronizing, be sure to use plenty of clamps as suggested above, but DO NOT over-tighten and squeeze all the epoxy out of the seems, cracks, and joints. Epoxy does better making stronger bonds if it isn't all squeezed out. Also, epoxy (at least the WEST epoxies) migrate very well if they haven't been thickened with fibers or colloidal material. Allow the seams and cracks to remain open for a few minutes while reapply additional liquid in areas soaking it up until you get really good saturation before clamping. If you can vacuum bag, this is even better. Keep very strict control of your portions, mix thoroughly and ensure your temperatures are exact. You might make a bit of a mess, use disposable gloves, protect your clamps with plastic bags or something similar to keep them clean and not sticking, then expect to do some sanding when epoxy has set. Once the epoxy "kicks" you have be be done.

Also, remember, epoxy has no UV blocking. Anything exposed to the sun will deteriorate over time. Use at least a couple coats of exterior varnish to coat any epoxy exposed to daylight. Good luck. This was a fun project for me, you'll enjoy it, too! Let us know how it works out.
 
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