Transom caprail

[vbenn]

On my PSC Ericson 380, the transom is capped with a solid length of teak which appears to be attached with screws which are hidden under teak plugs.

1. Does anyone know if 5200 was also used?
2. Any advice on how to remove without breaking?
3. How is the port stern cleat accessed from under the deck?

Vince Benn

 

[Brian K]

Hey Vince, I have a 32-200 that has a similar piece of trim. I replaced mine last winter,,, what a job!! The amount of time involved in replacing this piece of trim teak is ridiculous. You're on the right track though, removing all the plugs. On mine I had to remove the aft pulpit, the flanges (fittings the pulpit fits into), 2 vents and associated wiring, and yes, the cleats. I climbed in and out of the aft port locker about a zillion times throughout this process.

The trim is also secured with a very strong caulk (assume 5200 or similar). I hoped to remove the piece intact, refinish and reinstall. About 3/4 of the way in my removal process the piece broke. So in the end I have new wood and I had the cleats powder coated also.

This project is much bigger than it appears at first glance. I hope your project is easier than mine was. This year, it's on to the handrails.

Let me know if you need any other info. Good luck.

 

[u079721]

I sort of wanted to replace that piece of wood on my E38-200, but it looked like so much work that I just sanded the hell out of the wood instead to bring it back to life.

That piece is so exposed, and so liable to scratches from gear, shoes, ground tackle and such, that If I were to replace it I would seriously consider using teak colored Plasteak for durability.

 

[wheelerwbrian]

I've thought about replacing it too - I took out a radar tower (it was old old and out of date) and it gets abraded by the dock lines - it looks like you can use it (or its pieces) as a template pretty easy, but I'm a big guy and while I can get down into the lazarette its pretty claustrophobic and just plain uncomfortable, plus getting out is a bitch. My friend starts singing Winnie the Pooh when I start working my way out of it.

 

[Bob Robertson]

Hi Vince,
We have always sanded and used teak oil on our teak.
My wife made a covers for most all of our teak.
That stern piece is getting a little thinner, but it has a number of years to go.

It sounds like you want to remove the piece of teak and then reinstall it.
I'm really curious, what will you be doing to the teak while it's off the boat?

Best of luck with your project,
Bob

 

[vbenn]

IF . . . I can get it off in 1 piece without breaking it, I tought I would strip and re-varnish with Epiphanes gloss, replace the screws with bolts/plugs, then reinstall. I can easily remove all hardware except port side stern cleat - - don't know how to access its underside because my propane locker is blocking it. I also looked at the underside of the port coaming but it doesn't go all the way back. Most likely, I'll strip/refiniish in place at the beginning of next season before launching.

Vince

 

[Chris A.]

Vince,

On my 34 the propane locker makes it difficult to reach the underside of the port cleat, but it CAN be reached! You need to be a contortionist but it can be done. Yours may be impossible, but I'm guessing it's just a PITA.

Get in that locker with a mirror if you have to! Good luck!

Cheers,

 

[Bob Robertson]

Hi Vince,

I like your plan. Removing it would also allow you to completely seal the underside of the teak as well as the top
.
This should further minimize any moisture that could seep up from underneath.

I've crawled into my aft cockpit locker a few times. Once to mount my fluxgate compass and another time to run my speaker wires in back of the propane tank and up inside the stern pulpit tubing.

It's definitely a bit tight under there, but I thought there was some space behind the propane locker. Your boat is newer than ours and could be different.

Best of luck on your project,
Bob

 

[Martin King]

Knowing PSC's penchant for bedding in either Sikaflex or 5200, I would
guess that's the case with that trim piece. It's very likely you will
tear it up trying to get it off. If that piece was screwed and plugged,
you have to varnish it in place anyway so I'm a bit mystified why it needs
to come off.

 

[vbenn]

I thought this would be a good winter project - - refinishing with 7-8 coats in my basement as opposed to outdoors where I would have to work around the cleats (source of water infiltrattion) and would be at the mercy of the weather.

Since I can't get the port side cleat off anyway, I'll have to chose another winter project!!

Vince Benn
Wild Blue