Unexpected Winter Projects

[woolamaloo]

I managed to be the last boat to be pulled before winter at my marina in Vermilion, Ohio. The owner of the marina came to me while I was doing some final tasks and asked me if I was planning any projects on the boat over the winter. I told him, "No. All my projects this winter are at home. Go ahead and leave it outside and shrink wrap it." He mentioned that he didn't fill his inside storage this winter. "Would you like to be inside for the same cost as being outside with shrink wrapping?" Well, of course I would. But now, I feel compelled to tackle some projects.

Besides the projects I was working on at home (sewing and replacing several lines - including some with splices), now I'm committed to several indoor projects. Naturally, my fixed portlights leak. Luckily, only a little, but it was on my list. Because of my new rigid boom vang, I need to rotate my main hatch to allow it to open. And since I'm taking out one of the hatches, I might as well replace the crazed acrylic - on both of them.

My boat is inside but it's not a heated building. Last Friday, was an unseasonably warm day and I went to the boat and pulled out the four fixed portlights and both hatches. (And the anchor locker pan - but that's another story.)

Naturally, here's where it gets interesting. The forward port cutout actually has a spot where the hole is bigger than the portlight. The sloppy cutout was hidden by injecting a lot of sealant in that spot.

Of course, that is the portlight that leaks the most - and the only place where I need to do something to restore the integrity of the plywood and veneer on the inside. There are a few cosmetic blemishes on the veneer in other spots - but nothing that bothers me too much - or isn't being hidden by the curtains. I like all the teak so I'm not going to paint, but I'd appreciate suggestions of how to properly fill the hole - and relaminate the plywood.

Luckily, Christian has already handled and documented these projects on the first Thelonius.
Portlights
Reversing the Main Hatch
Replacing the Lewmar Lenses

I am certainly willing to use Christian's experience as a how-to but I have a couple additional questions.

Is Smith Company Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer and West System still the best way to repair the plywood and veneer in that spot?
Is the CPES really necessary?
What would be the best way to fill the .5" x 1.5" gap from where the cut-out is to where it should have been on the one portlight? I'm considering using epoxy and glass to affix a small piece of wood at the same time I repair the plywood and veneer.
Is Boat Life Lifecalk still the best thing to reseat the portlights? If so, how many cartridges should I expect to use?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[ref_123]

Hi Jim,

I can only answer the last question - as I am by no means a glass work expert. It took less than one tube to re-bed two fixed ports on our 32-3.

Regards,
Stan

 

[woolamaloo]

Hi Jim,

I can only answer the last question - as I am by no means a glass work expert. It took less than one tube to re-bed two fixed ports on our 32-3.

Regards,
Stan

Thanks Stan. And you still think the LifeCalk is the right product?

 

[Christian Williams]

You already know what I think, but Life-Calk would still be my choice. I suggest avoiding butyl for this job or rebedding the reversed hatch frame--I tried both and goop is better.

Unless the factory hole is actually larger than the exterior of the portlight frame, I'd just flood the area with Life-Calk. A close fit isn't necessary, and a tight fit is bad (cabin house flexes, temperatures have effect; very small, but that's why the ports "float" in the opening).

CPES is only necessary if the veneer is rotted or wrinkled by damage. In that case, CPES will bind it all together again, and if pressed flat the veneer will take varnish and look OK again. Epoxy is to reattach loose veneer to a surface, but if the epoxy shows on the top of the veneer the texture and appearance will be changed and varnish won't look good. Hence, paint.

 

[woolamaloo]

Thanks Christian.
After cutting out the old sealant, the hole was larger than the portlight. I made a small dam with packing tape in that corner and filled it with epoxy and a little piece of fiberglass. I think it has a better chance to seal now. My LifeCalk is "out for delivery" right now.

Now, I'm just scanning for days where the temp will get over 50 degrees. (For me as much as any product I'm using.) Nothing in the forecast right now.

 

[cooper999]

Sounds like you're squared away with the life caulk, but I just rebedded my fixed ports this summer and used the kit available from Catalina Direct. The sealant that came with the kit was 3M 4000, but I assume Life Caulk will work just as well especially given the Christian seal of approval.

Thanks Christian.
After cutting out the old sealant, the hole was larger than the portlight. I made a small dam with packing tape in that corner and filled it with epoxy and a little piece of fiberglass. I think it has a better chance to seal now. My LifeCalk is "out for delivery" right now.

Now, I'm just scanning for days where the temp will get over 50 degrees. (For me as much as any product I'm using.) Nothing in the forecast right now.