Used Profurl LC-32 off an E35-3 $500

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
After debating a new furler since purchasing the boat, we’ve decided to go with a new Harken MKIV Race unit 1 to replace our old ProFurl LC-32. The ProFurl has been difficult to reef under load which is why we originally started thinking about replacing it. Since then, I’ve replaced all the furling line blocks, added a strop between the drum and tack of the sail, rerouted the halyard to use the deflector, and tightened the back stay. It was still stiff under load, but it was workable. Ultimately, the time and effort required to replace the stay under the furler was the final straw that made me pull the trigger on a replacement.

We’ve now pulled the furler off the boat and disassembled it down to its main components and everything looks really good. There’re some scuffs on the top foil from a halyard wrap (fixed with the strop and deflector) and the drum assembly has some corrosion around the main screws, but it’s in good condition all things considered. Here’s some posts where I’ve talked about my experience:



https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/can-you-reef-in-five-minutes.20652/#post-164787

With the discovery that it’s in relatively good shape, I thought I would throw it up here and see if anyone could put it to good use on their boat. I’m thinking $500 is a fair price. The last foil has been cut to 73 ¼” to fit on our 35-3. The stay inside the furler (not included) was 5/16” (upsized form the oringal 9/32”). The toggle is included, but is currently with the rigger to ensure the news stay is cut to the correct length. You will need a new stay and set screws to put the foil back together. Let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
It's nice that a Profurl foil can be disassembled. The old (Mark I) Harken foils were assembled with roll-pins and copious amounts of red Loctite.
Even with the roll-pins removed many of my foil sections were still "glued" together. I assume it would have taken both heat and force to separate them, so, rather than that, I drilled, pressed, and Loctite-ed a second set of roll pins into each joint. The original roll-pins were known to be a weak point in the system.
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