Vang lead aft help

[bigd14]

The vang sheet on my Selden Boomkicker currently runs to a cam cleat on the lower fiddle block which makes easing the vang difficult without a scramble to the mast or extreme contortions from the companionway. I would like to run it back to the cockpit but am struggling to figure out the best path.

Running the vang sheet directly to the mast base block seems like it might cause problems with sheet tension when the boom is let out to port or starboard.

Running the sheet to a block on the boom and then paralleling the main sheet to the gooseneck and down doesn’t seem like a good option due to the boom kicker configuration unless I use a strop to mount the block. Maybe that’s the simplest solution but I am sure there are other ideas out there. I am also sure I’ll be frustrated I didn’t think of them, but let’s hear them!

Thanks.

 

[Frank Langer]

Doug,
Mine runs to a block at the mast step/base, then to an organizer, then back to the cockpit. It works well, no issues ever.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Thanks Frank. I should have added that I kind of shot myself in the foot running the mast wires out over the mast base attachment plate, which would necessitate the mast base block to be offset from centerline, hence my worry about the boom adding or subtracting tension from the vang sheet. Solving one problem creates another.

 

[Frank Langer]

Thanks Frank. I should have added that I kind of shot myself in the foot running the mast wires out over the mast base attachment plate, which would necessitate the mast base block to be offset from centerline, hence my worry about the boom adding or subtracting tension from the vang sheet. Solving one problem creates another.

Doug,
I can't quite picture how you have run your mast wires and how the block would be off set.
The various blocks at my mast base are fastened thru holes in the mast plate which is underneath the mast itself, but has about 1" of the plate coming out at a 45 degree angle which has the holes and blocks attached. So all the blocks--vang, halyards, outhaul, etc --are all not directly below the boom, but rather are offset slightly to port and starboard. I'm not at the boat, so can't send pics tonight ( but could tomorrow if needed).
It all works perfectly with no undue friction.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Pics would be great, thanks! Here is a closer photo of the wiring run. I would have to offset the block to the side angle of the mast plate. I’ll probably just have to experiment with it but I will be ordering new Garhauer blocks and want to figure out the setup before I do.

 

[Frank Langer]

Pics would be great, thanks! Here is a closer photo of the wiring run. I would have to offset the block to the side angle of the mast plate. I’ll probably just have to experiment with it but I will be ordering new Garhauer blocks and want to figure out the setup before I do.

View attachment 50377

Wow, Doug, that is a lovely setup! So my pic would show exactly the same mast step and blocks arrangement, so won't help you. It looks like all your sheaves are in use, so is one of those also the block for the vang? I don't see any problem with running the line for the vang thru a block at the mast base, like what you have shown, as that's how mine is run, then from the block to the organizer, then back to the cockpit. I don't really understand the problem or your concern.
Frank

 

[bgary]

I don't know if this would work with a boomkicker, but... I inverted my vang so the running block with cleat for the adjustment is at the top. Makes it easy to run the tail to the cockpit, and I can trim it (or flick it off) as needed from there.

 

[Christian Williams]

If there is slack, I think I'd pull the wires aside a few inches into a neat loop on deck, just so they don't get squashed by the new turning block on the collar.

You have an available deck organizer and presumably a clutch. Is a winch necessary to tension the Rodkicker? Probably not.

 

[bigd14]

so they don't get squashed

Yes this is the issue. I could get some slack but there is a third wire (vhf cable) in the middle. So the collar block has to be offset. Maybe it won’t be a problem being offset, I’ll have to experiment.

running block with cleat for the adjustment is at the top

This would be a bit more convenient but we have a dodger. We often sail in fair weather with the front panel open so we can reach the vang sheet from the companionway, but it wouldn’t be accessible with the panel closed. This is a primary reason I want to run the vang sheet aft.

It looks like all your sheaves are in use, so is one of those also the block for the vang?

Port side I have main sheet, main halyard and both Reef 1 lines. Starboard I have both Reef 2 lines and a mostly unused spinnaker halyard so the vang could fit on starboard.