Yacht Specialties Control Cables

[SeaDog]

A search of the site found numerous entries on Yacht Specialties pedestals but nothing specific on replacement of the control (throttle and transmission shifting) cables. The transmission control cable has a bend in it between the shift lever and attachment bracket at the top end of the Yacht Specialties pedestal (due to an overzealous helms person). Does anyone make a direct replacement for the control cables? Can anyone give me some much needed advise on how to replace the cables?

Kirby
Uff Da, 1978 Ericson 32, Alamitos Bay, Calif.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Kirby, It's very likely that each set of cables on our Ericsons differ from one length boat and engine type to another. As an example, there were no fewer than four different engines, gas and diesel offered for just the E31. If your cable sheathe is red, it's most likely that Morse made it. That being the case, the cable will be stamped with its length. In any event, it's a simple matter of bringing the cable with you to your local chandler for an exact length replacement. Removal is quite straight forward, if not slightly a pain in the rear. Remove the cable from the transmission, then remove your compass so as to gain access to the cable attachment hardware at the shift lever. In most cases a helper will speed up the replacement as the cable most likely will need to be fed into and through a small hole at the base of your pedestal (a 1"? hole drilled through the cockpit sole) before being led to the transmission. The attachment of the cable at the top is pretty obvious once you get the compass off and take a gander in there. Hint: 1. If your throttle cable seems to be stiff or jerky, consider replacing that one at the same time while you have the top end all opened up. 2. If your throttle cable won't stay at a given position and causes the engine RPM's to lower constantly, consider installing a neat little Morse accessory to the cable in a convenient place. It's called a Cable Brake, their part number 44386. It's essentially a small C-clamp affair made from a 1" wide stainless strap bent into a slight V at the bottom of the C and then to a flat at the top of the C. There's a 1/4-20 threaded hole in the top flat that accepts a 1/4-20 bolt with jam nut. The way it works is that it restricts the movement of the inner cable by claming down the head of the bolt on the outer sheathed part. The cable is held in place in the V while the bolt head is tightened down on the cable sheathe. Then the jam nut is set to keep the bolt in place. I have this problem with my throttle and years ago first tried a small stainless U-clamps similar to a muffler clamp and all it did was kink the outer sheathe without doing much to restrict the inner cable. Someone then turned me on to the Cable Brake and it's worked like a charm ever since. The beauty of the clamp is that it does its job without ruining the cable. Look for it locally but if you have trouble, contact the folks at the Ships Store in Marina del Rey at 310.823.5574. They should have that part in stock as well as the right Morse replacement cable you'll need. They'll gladly take your order over the phone and UPS or mail it out to you if you don't want to make the short trip up here. If you do decide to drive up, give me a call and I'll meet you and make you a cup of coffee aobard our E31, the Dawn Treader. Good luck, Glyn H 310.453.1892, C 310.804.9198

 

[SeaDog]

Yacht Specialty Control Cables

Thanks much Glyn. The cable is probably Morse although the folks at Morse were not able to make a positive ID from the photos and description that I sent to them. Ideally, I could simply remove the cables as you suggest but that is not so straight forward. The connections to the transmission and throttle linkage are darn near inaccessible and are extremely rusted. I plan to lower one of those agile young fellows down head first (probably with a hack saw) in hopes of getting to it. I have attached some photos. What’s your thoughts?

Kirby

 

[u079721]

Don't forget the messenger!

You would almost certainly have thought of this yourself, but when removing the old control cable to take to your chandlery for a replacement, be sure to run a messenger line through the pedestal for each cable as you remove the old ones. That will make getting the new ones installed almost bearable.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Kirby, Remove the four, long, slotted flathead, 1/4-20 screws in the plate beneath the compass and the binnacle parts below that will begin to become more accessable. The exact length of the cable is heat branded right into the red plastic outer cover. Trust me when I tell you that you will find that part number (assuming it's a Morse and if red, it is) and be able to find an exact replacement. Use Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster or penetrating oil on the stubborn fasteners and in time they will all come free. Be sure to use an anti-seize on all threads during reassembly. Steve's suggestion is an excellent one. Come to think of it, I'll bet that's the only reason West Marine sells those 50 foot hanks of 1/8" Dacron line. Go for it, Glyn

 

[tramp]

Kirby,
I have an E34 and just did replace my control cables last week. As mentioned, if it is red, it is a Morse cable with length marked on the cable. They make a regular and a supream cable, I went with the supream and it is much smoother. In my case the cables were routed under my fuel tank through a very small hole in a bulkhead from the after locker (naturally I couldn't see the hole without a mirror and a flashlight). As in all boating jobs it turned out to be much more frustrating than I had thought. Oh well, that's boating. The messenger idea is very important when installing the new cables, make sure you tie it on well. Also, when you are contorting your body when peforming the task, make sure you inspect the entire steering system for worn parts. I found sheev pins badly worn when I discovered bronz dust down below after I pulled things apart. As long as you are there, check everything. It is said that the steering system is the most important but most neglected on your boat.
Tramp

 

[SeaDog]

Glyn, Steve, Tramp...

Thank you for your valuable help. I removed the compass and then the four 1/4-20 screws as suggested by Glyn. The next level down is the throttle and shift lever housing and it is also held down by four 1/4-20 screws. To remove this necessitates either detaching the cable brackets (one bolt each, 7/16 hex head) or detaching the cables at the transmission and throttle linkage thus pulling cables and housing up. I have not yet tried this. As I recall, the cables were black but I will check the next time I am at the boat. The cable attachment brackets extend down into the pedestal 4 or 5 inches. Looking down, it looks like a rubber grommet holding the cable but it must be something more rigid than that. I don’t recall seeing any numbers on the cable but, again, I will look the next time. As with Tramp’s installation, the cables run down the short pedestal (the E32 has a divided cockpit) then under the fuel tank.

Question: Do (or did) all of you have the Yacht Specialties pedestals? Which engine (I have a Yanmar 2QM20H)? What was the part number for the cables that you used? Mine may be a different length but I would assume that the mounting inside the pedestal is the same.

Kirby

 

[SeaDog]

Well, with great thank you's to Glyn, Steve and Tramp, we were able to replace the transmission shift cable and Uff Da is now operational. Fortunately, a very good friend was able to contort his body sufficiently to gain access to the gear box. As much as I tried, my body could not fold up enough to even get close.

Kirby