E31C Steam Bending Teak

After having been told that you can't really steam bend kiln dried teak, I approached this project with trepidation given the recent price hikes of the material (see my previous post). I have been slowly working my way forward on my E31 with finishing out the trim, and now am doing the difficult (curvy) parts. This piece goes in the head.
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Laying out for templates

As many of you know, there are no straight lines on a boat, and in many cases compound curves abound such as this piece I am fitting.
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Templating in 1/8 inch mdf. Turns out I don't need to clearance for the dogs on the port.

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Resawing teak blank to ballpark thickness on my band saw.

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Instead of building a steam box, I am trying out the steam in place method popularized
by Lou Sauzedde. The form is mdf and is shaped to account for some spring back. The
bag is custom made from 6 mil plastic.


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Here we go, all clamped up and cooking. The thickness is about 5/8 inch and I
cooked it well over an hour and left it to cool on the form overnight. The next day
I took it off, and the springback was about what I expected.


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And here it is screwed and glued. Again, because it's a boat, compound miters were
needed on both ends.


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Here's another view. Pardon the distortion but it's shot with a cell phone.
So this was a successful shallow bend of kiln dried stock. The real test
will come next when making the piece up forward that curves through about 160 degrees.
Stay tuned.
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Martin King
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