K2MSmith
Sustaining Member
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Thank you .. should be fixed now.. if that link doesn't work (I can';t edit the post), this one should:If the video is on YouTube, it is currently set to private.
Go to YouTube Edit/Edit details/Visibiity/Public.
Do you mean the leech was over tight? When we reef, we release the vang and ease the mainsheet quite a bit prior to tightening the halyard and reef line. This allows the halyard to just tighten the luff and the reef to not break your sail.As you can see in the movie, that reef is also poorly set because you can see all the wrinkles in the luff (and bad sail trim). I have to sort that out on a calmer day. I added quite a bit if halyard tension, so I am guessing maybe the luff was over tight before I was able to get correct halyard tension.
Yes , sorry - I meant the leech was over tight ( the reef line that controls rear part of sail). I didn’t ease the sheet , but headed into wind to reduce pressure . I’ll try and ease vang and msinsheet next time .Do you mean the leech was over tight? When we reef, we release the vang and ease the mainsheet quite a bit prior to tightening the halyard and reef line. This allows the halyard to just tighten the luff and the reef to not break your sail.
I am jealous of your hydraulic vang, but don’t miss the leaks.
Chris
One problem I just noticed is that the mainmaybe the luff was over tight before I was able to get correct halyard tension.
Looks like a good sail on the Bay. When it's windy, the luff has to be tighter than on a 10-knot day, and I often have to retighten the halyard to remove the scallops that appear when it starts to blow.
Looks like all you need is a little more halyard cranking next time you reef.
(Once a reef is set, it is necessary to relieve all reef line tension and let the sail luff before the halyard tension can be changed.)
My experience with replacing the clutches might prove helpful, perhaps.One problem I just noticed is that the main
halyard clutch near the mast on deck is slipping . I can cleat it after the winch , but then I lose the use of that winch . I have to figure out how to replace/rebuild it. If it bolted to the cabin top requiring nuts on the inside , then I have to cut the headliner inside ( unless I can get zippers to work ) . I’m ultimately planning to reorganize the halyards on the deck and get a self tailing halyard winch . I probably will want to lead everything back to the cockpit , but not really sure just yet . The main is so easy to hoist at the mast now with the tides track - I may want to just leave the winch / clutches up there . Going through deck organizer and block at the mast adds extra overhead but it’s more familiar to me .. Decisions , decisions.
I believe I have low-stretch halyards but I’ll check the rope type .You are in the fun part of the process! We used to have a halyard slip issue as well. We would do a good job of partially opening the clutch, pushing the pedal thing down and getting a good solid hold on the halyard. Then we took the halyard off the winch and led it around to any normal horn cleat. That "worked", but was annoying. We had a brand new rope clutch at the time to no avail. I even tried thickening the halyard where it would be gripped by the clutch, still slipped.
On the J/44 we crewed on, there was just a second clutch in series on the deck. Then they went to a 2:1 halyard and the issue went away. We also went to a 2:1 halyard and our issue went away as well. More halyard to deal with, a little slower on the hoist, but well worth it in my opinion.
Do you have low-stretch (dyneema based) halyards? If not, that will always make your luff look bad when the wind is up.
Our halyard is led to the cockpit winch and rope clutch, but we always hoist at the mast. It is way easier and quicker. There is a jam cleat at the mast to park the halyard at full hoist when alone. Tensioning the halyard pops it out of the jam cleat.
As far as your reefing goes, you are well on your way. We have reefed and unreefed countless times. Sometimes I do it by myself, usually Lisa helps, depends on conditions. But once you get your system down it takes all of about 30 seconds to complete. It can be done at all points of sail.
Chris
What size boat. ?All my original reefing lines were 3/8" sta-set type line. Some of it I kept in use. Other parts I replaced with new 3/8" sta-set, and have been happy with it. I did use Marlow 10mm Line (D2 Club) for the Reef 2 downhaul I added. It is slightly larger in diameter than the existing 3/8" sta-set used for the clew/outhaul.
View attachment 34727
32-3What size boat. ?
One problem I just noticed is that the main
halyard clutch near the mast on deck is slipping . I can cleat it after the winch , but then I lose the use of that winch . I have to figure out how to replace/rebuild it. If it bolted to the cabin top requiring nuts on the inside , then I have to cut the headliner inside ( unless I can get zippers to work ) . I’m ultimately planning to reorganize the halyards on the deck and get a self tailing halyard winch . I probably will want to lead everything back to the cockpit , but not really sure just yet . The main is so easy to hoist at the mast now with the tides track - I may want to just leave the winch / clutches up there . Going through deck organizer and block at the mast adds extra overhead but it’s more familiar to me .. Decisions , decisions.
For the second reef line , the line installed for the flattening reef is not long enough to be reused for the 2nd reef line , so I think just buy new line . What is appropriate rope type for a reefing line ? Old line is white and “soft”’( maybe to prevent chafing ? ) and measures just shy of 1/2” diameter . I need about 40-50’.
Thanks! I’ll check that out . I bought sta-set on sale for the 2nd reef ( before seeing your post ) and traveler lines , but I’ll keep that in mind . Pretty much all the cordage on my boat is about 10 years old and could be be replaced. According to the rigger, the running backs are first priority but I still want to get 2nd opinion on those for this boat. Other lines will replace over time . The main halyard / jib sheets next . I learned how to whip and sew lines together so I at least can do that myself . The rest I feel a bit helpless on , but I am gradually finding helping hands around the Marina . My mechanical skills have been limited to smaller projectsFor reefing lines, halyards and sheets, I like this new line from Samson: MLX3
It is low stretch but not as expensive as some of the other high tech lines. YMMV
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MLX3 - Samson Rope
MLX3 is a lightweight, core-dependent line that has excellent strength and moderate stretch.www.samsonrope.com
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Samson MXLS3 White with Tracer
Samson's MLX3 is a lightweight, core-dependent line that has excellent strength and moderate stretch. The core is coated to match the cover, making the line strippable for greater weight savings. Features: Construction: Double braid Core-dependenwww.defender.com