Sikkens Cetol and Cracks in Wood

[Jimbocky]

I am using Retool Sikkens Marine Light to refinish my hatch cover. AS shown in the photo I have cracks or open seems in-between the work and caulking. I don't think the Sikkens is going to fill these cracks. Is there something compatible with the Sikkens that I can use as a filler?

 

[ConchyDug]

Thickened epoxy using the finally ground up wood as the thickening agent might work. I think West Systems sells a small kit at Worst Marine.

 

[peaman]

Thickened epoxy using the finally ground up wood as the thickening agent might work

This is what I was planning to do on my stern rail, probably after cutting the split a bit wider for deeper penetration, and to get clean wood in the area to be treated. Either that, or shaping the split and then filling with a thin shaving of teak, secured with epoxy.

 

[Christian Williams]

Yes. West Systems has several blends. Choose one you can sand. I often use 405 filleting, because it's brown and looks like wood.

Tape off and lay with putty knife. 405 is very strong, fairing products are easier to sand, or if you have sawdust from your project experiment with that as thickener of epoxy.

 

[Kenneth K]

You may just want to split the crack open all the way, then glue the two separated pieces back together. Might be hard to get the filler down in deep enough to fully fill the crack otherwise.

 

[jtsai]

I have attempted similar repairs with a mixture of epoxy, filleting, wood saw dust etc. The repair area looked good for a few months but due to different expansion and contracting rates of host and filled-in materials, the crack/separation reappeared. I wonder if the best approach is to dig out the caulk and reapply with the same.

 

[peaman]

I am using Retool Sikkens Marine Light to refinish my hatch cover. AS shown in the photo I have cracks or open seems in-between the work and caulking. I don't think the Sikkens is going to fill these cracks. Is there something compatible with the Sikkens that I can use as a filler?

I apologize for hijacking the thread with my own crack issue. In your case, as jsai says, the correct solution is to completely remove the caulking where the gap is and then fill with polysulfide caulk, which is made for that specific purpose. The same stuff used on teak decking. Research the preparation requirements and application recommendations. Once the seam is caulked, you can then finish the cover with your preferred product.

 

[reginaldobaker]

@Jimbocky's picture makes it look like this is teak planking on the topside of the hatch. I wonder if the caulking should be removed and redone in this specific case? Believe this deck caulk can be found in squeeze tubes.

I have heard that since teak is a more oily wood people can have problems with eopxy adhesion - has this been a problem for anyone?

 

[Loren Beach]

I have heard that since teak is a more oily wood people can have problems with eopxy adhesion - has this been a problem for anyone?

Yup. The original little teak trim strip across the back of the cockpit had cracked even before we bought it. Epoxy forced into the crack would only provide a smooth surface for a year or so. I lived with it, since it was ornamental, and as part of the 2021 re-fit it was replaced with a high-density plastic piece.

 

[reginaldobaker]

Looks like @jtsai mentioned similar above ^ . to the original point I’m not aware of a product that is “compatible” via adhesion to Cetol. I would recommend sanding down to bare wood for any filler/sealant regardless of what’s used.
Good luck hopefully there’s not more teak decking other than the hatch.