Marine Head and Hoses, all Models [Master Thread]

[Filkee]

Just confirming that them hoses--they stink, right? It's an optical illusion that they look awful shiny, nicht war? But clearly when you rub a damp rag on them and smell it it has the nose not of a fine cabernet but of Bolo's diaper hamper, eh? My stinky hoses were black and permeated. But stink is subjective, yes. Napoleon, sending a message to Josephine of his imminent arrival home, said simply "I am coming. Don't wash."

They’re sticky to the touch and I’m having all kinds of back flow problems. I should do this while I’m still young enough.

 

[peaman]

For sanitation hose, I used Saniflex Odor Shield and Trident-Premium. For tank vent, I used 1/2” Shields 1350HD water hose which looks like common fuel line. The original clear hose had deteriorated, and I figured “water hose” should be okay as it should never carry liquids.


Removable cover is supported by new cleats which are attached by the screws shown. Original cleats were attached from below and prevented removal of the tank.


An elbow was installed in each of the bottom-connected hoses to make installation much easier, and to minimize torque on the elbows at the tank bottom which could result in leaking. The webbing straps attach to a webbing belt a few inches below the top of the tank. That made installation and test-fitting of the tank much easier than without.

I recommend that each screwed fitting be sealed with teflon tape followed by pipe dope such as Hercules Megaloc 15804.

 

[Filkee]

For sanitation hose, I used Saniflex Odor Shield and Trident-Premium. For tank vent, I used 1/2” Shields 1350HD water hose which looks like common fuel line. The original clear hose had deteriorated, and I figured “water hose” should be okay as it should never carry liquids.

View attachment 51069
Removable cover is supported by new cleats which are attached by the screws shown. Original cleats were attached from below and prevented removal of the tank.

View attachment 51070
An elbow was installed in each of the bottom-connected hoses to make installation much easier, and to minimize torque on the elbows at the tank bottom which could result in leaking. The webbing straps attach to a webbing belt a few inches below the top of the tank. That made installation and test-fitting of the tank much easier than without.

I recommend that each screwed fitting be sealed with teflon tape followed by pipe dope such as Hercules Megaloc 15804.

Like the elbows. That’s just plain beautiful.

 

[Filkee]

Just confirming that them hoses--they stink, right? It's an optical illusion that they look awful shiny, nicht war? But clearly when you rub a damp rag on them and smell it it has the nose not of a fine cabernet but of Bolo's diaper hamper, eh? My stinky hoses were black and permeated. But stink is subjective, yes. Napoleon, sending a message to Josephine of his imminent arrival home, said simply "I am coming. Don't wash."

Sticky and stinky—and not in Josephine way.

 

[nquigley]

Ah, of course. Perhaps you have the optional tank pump-out plumbing? (My 32-3 had no Whale in the head).

Same as mine. The other 32-3 at my club has the pump-out whale gusher in the head, but, unlike mine, it does not have the Y-valve for optional pumping directly from the head, overboard - when/where it’s legal and ethical. I really like having this option - esp for cruising in the Caribbean, and offshore in general. IMO, getting the holding tank pumped out is a bit of a hassle.

 

[Filkee]

My lawn mower had a very simple gas gauge that was a float on a stick that twisted and moved an E-F indicator on the cap. I’d love to be able to not be guessing how full it is but I don’t need some fancy Bluetooth thing. Any low-tech ideas out there?

 

[Nick J]

A white tank with an inspection port. It's about as simple as it gets at the cost of your dignity.

I replaced our tank with exactly that and installed a resistive float type tank monitor. Just like everyone warned me, the monitor clogged within the first year and I've had to rely on looking through the inspection port. At least I opted for a clear inspection port, so I don't have to open the tank to look.

 

[peaman]

My lawn mower had a very simple gas gauge that was a float on a stick that twisted and moved an E-F indicator on the cap. I’d love to be able to not be guessing how full it is but I don’t need some fancy Bluetooth thing. Any low-tech ideas out there?

There is nothing simpler than a stick. Any opening in the top of the tank which can be sealed when not in use can be used if you can insert a wood dowel through it to the bottom of the tank. Underground gasoline tanks were checked that way at least until recently.

 

[G Kiba]

I am sure this was covered by others here. I found a heat gun to loosen hose connection along with a hose pulling tool (find at an auto parts store) very helpful. I have the older version of the SCAD tank level monitor system that works really well. https://defender.com/en_us/scad-tm1-tank-monitor-with-external-sensor-strip-10040. I also prefer the Sani-Flex hose.

 

[Filkee]

For those of you playing along at home, today was demo day which is what Vermonters do while the leafers own the roads. Minor spill on the way out with the whale gusher and I never could get the tank to deck line to disconnect from the tank but it’s out and I think I’m going to go for a new tank so I scan have only three holes in the bowling ball. Debris photos for amusement purposes only.

 

[Filkee]

Oh, and the working conditions were absolutely horrific.

 

[Marlin Prowell]

I second the suggestion of using a SCAD external tank level monitor. We’ve had one on our boat on both the holding tank and the water tanks for five years and It works very well. Also second (third?) the suggestion for using Sani-Flex hose.

 

[Filkee]

Just ordered a SCAD. It will fit nicely in the spot where the Whale Gusher was. The spending continues. Snow expected Tuesday.

 

[Filkee]

Sani-flex ordered. West Marine $20/foot. RV place $12/foot. I remain a little lost on the vent piece. I look at the brown (formerly clear/red) piece of sticky water hose that was my vent line and think I need something more robust. Any strong feelings from the hive?

 

[peaman]

Sani-flex ordered. West Marine $20/foot. RV place $12/foot. I remain a little lost on the vent piece. I look at the brown (formerly clear/red) piece of sticky water hose that was my vent line and think I need something more robust. Any strong feelings from the hive?

I used 1/2” Shields 1350HD water hose which looks like common fuel line. The original clear hose had deteriorated, and I figured “water hose” should be okay as it should never carry liquids.

 

[Filkee]

Should never carry liquids as long as I watch that monitor. Any strong feelings about order of operations when reinstalling to reduce bleeding and frustration?

 

[peaman]

Should never carry liquids as long as I watch that monitor. Any strong feelings about order of operations when reinstalling to reduce bleeding and frustration?

As I posted previously, I made up a "harness" for the tank so I could easily lift it in and out of it's enclosure, which allowed me to test fit and measure hoses before cuts. Also, the elbows at the top of the two bottom-connected hoses were to simplify fitting.

I installed the hoses from the head and vanity to the tank with some extra length, pending test fit of the tank. I also had some extra length on the bottom-connected hoses pending test fit. At that point, with bottom-connected hoses in place, I lowered the tank into its enclosure and determined where to cut the hoses at each elbow. I then removed the tank (the harness minimized scraped knuckles) and the final hose cuts were made. Fit the elbows to the hoses from the head and vanity before installing the tank, adjusting the elbows to the correct angle. Finally, place the tank in the enclosure and connect the bottom-connected hoses to the elbows.

Be careful in avoiding moving the bottom-connected hoses in such a way as to loosen their screwed connection at the tank bottom. You would hate to have a leak develop there, as it will be inaccessible once the tank is in place.

As I recall, the inlet hose at the top of the tank can be pushed aft against the bulkhead to provide clearance for the tank to come and go from the enclosure, so fitting that can be done at any point, and connection is best left to last, along with connection of the vent hose.

You might want to get some clamp jackets to cover the ends of the hose clamps.

 

[Angel D.]

Photos of plumbing of Typical E381 with macerator:

Head (toilet) Hose Connections Ericson 381

Here is what I believe to be Ericson factory connections. Those who wonder why anybody would bother to post this for posterity can harken back to Easter Day, 2020, when the Covid 19 plague closed society and nobody had anything better to do. A (photo below): Left hose goes to holding tank...

ericsonyachts.org

Thanks for sharing . Going down this road at some point in the future. Unavoidable . Good tread guys !

 

[Filkee]

Overthinking SCAD installation. Instructions indicate metal tape should go to within 1/2” of top and bottom of tank. That would put my fill and vent under effluent. Would there be any harm in having the tape terminate just below the vent. Is this a reality I can control or would I be violating some rule of conductivity that would cause you all to shake your heads in bemusement?

 

[G Kiba]

Yep. . Sorry. We have all been there. Upside. You will be proud of yourself after coming up with your own great solutions. I would apply the tape within the range of the effluent you want to meter. One persons filled can be another's half empty?