Risk/reward/crazy???

[nukey99]

We live in the PNW and berth at Bellingham, during a recent cold snap, I closed all the thru hulls. While doing my weekly vacuum the little water in the bilge from the mast during rains, I tried to open the Galley sink drain to dump the shop vac. Our boat is an 83 35-3. Of course while turning the handle, it snaps its shaft right off while the valve is open. So, know I have a hole in the boat which technically can't be closed. I had a local service company come by and look at it, and they will get back to me early next week.

Options I have are:

1. Attempt a valve replacement in the water, I've done this before on a previously owned Ericson 29. There is risk with this if the fitting will not release from the threads.
2. Schedule a haul and block and do it on the shore. This is clearly much more expensive, but also safer.
3. Leave it be and deal with it at the next haul out. In 30 years of boating, I've never had any hose fail. I would double check all the hose clamps and other stuff. I do believe that if I were selling the boat, a surveyor would scream about it.

Any thoughts or advice.

 

[Loren Beach]

Was this one of the RC Marine Marelon factory valves? If so they had/have a problem with a slight-but-sigificant swelling of the ball material. It binds if not exercised constantly and the stem of the handle can break off. Vexing as heck, to say the least... I had one do that many years ago.
If starting over now, I might go with the TruDesign seacock, as they seem to have a better handle (bad pun) on the right reinforced plastic chemistry. But then only the passage of time will really really tell.

 

[nukey99]

This one was a bronze ball valve/seacock. I think I saw notes from a previous owner about replacements 12 years ago or so. I am tempted to go with fore spare Marelon valves.

 

[Kenneth K]

while turning the handle, it snaps its shaft right off while the valve is open.

If the handle snapped but the shaft is still intact, have you tried removing a handle from another valve and trying it on this valve? Or, you could try turning the shaft with a tool or some vise grips?

 

[bsangs]

I am tempted to go with fore spare Marelon valves.

They're no guarantee either. We had the Marelon valves. Last winter I closed the sink drain for the season and it completely froze up by the time spring came around. Couldn't get it open to save my life. Tried literally every trick/suggestion in the book. Eventually had her pulled and replaced the seacock/thru hull with a beefier bronze model. Replaced a couple other Marelon ones as well, while it was out.

 

[nukey99]

If the handle snapped but the shaft is still intact, have you tried removing a handle from another valve and trying it on this valve? Or, you could try turning the shaft with a tool or some vise grips?

The shaft itself sheered inside the fitting, there are some threads still in there, but nothing to grab on to. It had a small lead through the threads of the handle of about 1 drop per 3 seconds. As a temporary fix, I stuffed a small piece of plastic bag in the opening. Today, I'm going to shove some moldable fiberglass (ding stick), in it to create a more substantial closure.

 

[Nick J]

I've been really happy with True Design. I dont have enough long term experience yet, but on paper they seem like they'll last.

 

[bigd14]

What brand is the broken bronze fitting?

 

[bgary]

The Marelon ball-valve for my sink drain is sometimes hard to move, and it's caused me to wonder (but have never tried) whether it is possible to lube the ball in an in-place thru-hull.

The thought bouncing around in the dark and scary places in the back of my brain is... I wonder if there's something (soap? bio-safe lubricant?) that could be poured down the sink drain and then flushed through while exercising the valve.

OK, I'll go back to my coffee now.

 

[peaman]

wonder (but have never tried) whether it is possible to lube the ball in an in-place thru-hull.

Maybe vegetable oil can be used. Never petroleum oil. Best bet is to use a brush to paint the ball with MareLube while the boat is hauled out.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

The Marelon ball-valve for my sink drain is sometimes hard to move, and it's caused me to wonder (but have never tried) whether it is possible to lube the ball in an in-place thru-hull.

The thought bouncing around in the dark and scary places in the back of my brain is... I wonder if there's something (soap? bio-safe lubricant?) that could be poured down the sink drain and then flushed through while exercising the valve.

OK, I'll go back to my coffee now.

At the suggestion of someone on the forum here, I purchased liquid Marelube. Seems to work well.

 

[bsangs]

The Marelon ball-valve for my sink drain is sometimes hard to move, and it's caused me to wonder (but have never tried) whether it is possible to lube the ball in an in-place thru-hull.

The thought bouncing around in the dark and scary places in the back of my brain is... I wonder if there's something (soap? bio-safe lubricant?) that could be poured down the sink drain and then flushed through while exercising the valve.

OK, I'll go back to my coffee now.

I used Marelube liberally before it completely locked on me - because mine was also quite difficult to close/open - but it was either too late in the game from previous owner neglect of that valve, or it simply didn't work.

 

[Pete the Cat]

I think the sink through hull is very nearly on the centerline on your boat. If you have a good, double clamped sink quality sanitation or exhaust hose (not the corrugated bilge hose Ericson used). i would probably wait until you haul. I don't think the risk is that great if you have good stuff, well secured, above the valve. I don't close my sink through hull valve regularly, I generally leave it open, just like the engine valve. Unless I am parking for a long period--then I have to leave notes to check them. I am careful about good hoses and clamps and check everything thoroughly at haul out..

 

[Nick J]

side note, I have some extra pieces of Trident's 147 Vac XHD Bilge hose I'm looking to get rid of. There's enough to plumb up a few sink drains. Free to anyone who wants it and can pick it up locally.

 

[nukey99]

Thanks for all the replies and input. The hoses in that area are thick high quality hoses, and the clamps are doubled and in good shape. Given the amount of plumbing in that area, I don't use it for any storage, so there is nothing which is going to bang into it. I'm going to wait for the next haul out and deal with it then. With the boat out of the water, it becomes a do it myself job, or a quick job for someone hired. At the next haul out I'll also service or replace the PSS shaft seal. Review of records indicates about 390 hours on the shaft seals.