Recent content by Nigel Barron

I'm back! Alas, I am no longer an owner of my E27. I skipper a 53' custom race boat, and was just not sailing my boat enough, so a few years back before the last Transpac sold the boat. The good news is that she sort of stayed in the family, being sold to a friends cousin in Vancouver BC.

I have never really liked sail drives. While I love the concept, and can appreciate the benefits on a sailboat, it just seems like too many dissimilar metals under the water. Add that to how "hot" a lot of marina's are, and the problems mount.

It has been a while since I poked around here. I think in part because of being in the middle of a ton of stuff going on at work with the 53' race boat I skipper. We were doing the annual Hawaii prep, but the owner's wife is due in July so ended the Hawaii plans for the summer. Instead I...

When I raced my E27, I opted for an oversize main and non-overlapping headsails. During a couple of Switftsures we saw some pretty good breeze. I have NEVER reefed. I got the flattest main I could get, and twist off or flog as appropriate and go with a smaller headsail. Only once did we have...

It's not the size that matters... Seriously, the line size has less and less to do with strength these days. More, go with a size that you can handle easily.

Yet again, I will have to miss it. That weekend is the start of the Van Isle. There are a couple of Ericson's in the yard right now, so I will pass the information on to those owners.

I know that SaniGard makes a holding tank vent filter. You would have to ask someone else if they work, as all I did was install it. On a new Flying Tiger no less...

I had to do this to a Beneteau 50 about four months ago. Similar situation with bad corrosion at the bast of the mast. Ended up cutting about an inch of the bottom and then just fabricating a new insert out of UHMW (really dense plastic). One attached, the piece of UHMW made it so the rigging...

You could get a block spliced into a loop of something strong like spectra or an amsteel, and then just loop the block on itself through the fork on your forestay attachment and lead it back that way. Otherwise, unless you really see yourself adjusting the tack height, do the same with a...

If you can, drop the rudder and check and flush any bearings etc.

Those cars are sweet. Another advantage, although more for a racer is that as you adjust halyard tension, it is more evenly distributed over the luff of the main due to the lack of friction. With a bolt rope, you often get hard spots or bunches. They are really easy to maintain as well.

Big main, small jib. Debate is over. I agree with Seth on everything he said. To add to it though, even with a blade or jib the simple addition of inhaulers will negate any lost point. Also, even with a jib you can still get drive through waves by easing the sheet and twisting a little...

I use Sikka Flex for just about everything. It is easy to work with, and cleans up pretty easy with stove fuel.

I have used Spartite quite a few times. Couple things. Spartite is not designed to stop mast leaks. Spartite was made for carbon masts. With an aluminium mast, you can use mast wedges, whereas a carbon mast really hates point loads, hence the Spartite. When Spartite does leak, it is...

If the main already has grommets, a simple way would be to use the cunningham to hold down the new tack, and use a sailtie to take care of the clew. Tie it around the boom tight, and leave a loop to attach your outhaul to and get tension to flatten it. Use another sailtie around the mast and...