Wow, you get quite a bit of core removed. What tool do you use? I'm using a dremel with a 5/16 rotary carving bit (https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-115HP...ocphy=9033382&hvtargid=pla-2281435180458&th=1)
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Standing rigging estimates?
- Thread starter Kif
- Start date
I have found that a right-angle piece like a bent nail or better yet an allen wrench works best. Shorten the end to suit the cutback you desire - on a grinder. I used this idea for well over a hundred holes in our deck during prep for painting. This was a vital part of the process of epoxy-filling and redialing all the bolt holes.
Thanks to Bryan for the excellent photos !
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Aye, same tool. The holes weren't drilled very cleanly during production, so grinding from the bottom where the opening is bigger allowed more material removal
Thanks, Ken! I'm buying one of those right now for future use
Lot's of good conversation here and good advice. We are in the process of replacing all of the U-bolts since two of them have failed. We will probably replace the remainder of the standing rigging too. The backstay and chainplate was replaced last year and the forestay this year when we replaced the roller ruler.
I haven't seen mentioned (unless I missed it) the swaged t-ball fitting on the mast end of the shrouds. Has anyone had issues - corrosion/deterioration on the mast itself where the shrouds are attached? Has anyone used swagless T-ball fittings?
I haven't seen mentioned (unless I missed it) the swaged t-ball fitting on the mast end of the shrouds. Has anyone had issues - corrosion/deterioration on the mast itself where the shrouds are attached? Has anyone used swagless T-ball fittings?
The t-ball terminals in the mast are stainless steel inserts held in place by four rivets. Would be hard to inspect from the inside (would need an endoscope), but you can get a general feel for their condition from outside the mast. The t-fitting doesn't move inside the terminal once tightened, so I'd guess there's very little wear on the terminal.
I added plugs to mine to try to reduce the water that gets into the mast (Seattle rains....)
I haven't heard of swageless T-balls. How do they connect to the wire?
Wow! Looks like Port Annapolis got ya . What model is your Ericson?
Looks like a 32-3 or 32-200?
Rigger found this. He knew how to inspect rigging better than I did.
That's the condition I am concerned about.
Bolo
Contributing Partner
An E32-3. They "got me"? As in I paid too much? Not in my opinion. They did a top notch job with inspection, execution and following up with another inspection where a few minor things were deemed to be OK but not quite right and then fixed. How much of a price do you put on the safety of you and your crew? Just look at what they just found on Christian's boat and no one can say that he's a sailor with limited experience or lack of vigilance when it comes to rigging. Plus, I'm a sailor in his 70s and although I am quite active because I'm in good health I'm not keen on going up on the mast. No, I don't think they "got me" because when I've gone out in a big blow and a challenging chop on the bay I feel more confident about the rigging and in turn enjoy sailing more.
Pete the Cat
Sustaining Member
The opinion of the guys in my boatyard is that properly prepped (end fibers sealed with wet epoxy)and installed end grain balsa is better for preventing water intrusion than plywood. Plywood is easier to install and has some small inherent strength advantage, but is much more subject to water intrusion from flexing and swelling that creates lateral gaps. Production builders use plywood because it is cheap and fast to install. Plywood is better for compression loads when external backing plates are used. On the more custom boats like Hinckleys and Tartans you will find solid fiberglass at stanchion and chain plate deck penetrations. I would recommend "drill and fill" thickened epoxy for any of these holes with plywood showing if you have gone this far.
Agree. I did that with the plywood coring under our traveler on the bridge deck, and under the binnacle where the aft cockpit sole was plywood cored. The "carving out" of the coring was a little more involved.
It was tongue-in-cheek, but I am quite amazed at the price tag nonetheless. That's basically half the price of what a nice 32-3 costs--especially in this economy where boats are starting to sit for years!
For 17K (or a little more), I would hope to buy a new mast and all new rigging. Last time I re-rigged a boat was in 2019 and it was an 1987 Ericson 38-200 in Southwest Florida. It cost me about $2,100 for all new wire and swaged fittings and the rigger did the work in the yard on the ground. I believe he was supplied by Hayn and he made everything on-site, in his work van. He also came to the boat after to tension the rig in the water.
For what it's worth, I ran a mobile marine repair business (including some sailboats) in the Annapolis area for three years from 2021-2024 and charged $145/hour by the end, so I do think I have a handle on how much things can and should cost in this area.
I will restate that 17K is a very hefty sum for this type work, depending on how exhaustive. My bet is that yards to the south and north of Annapolis like Herrington Harbor would do it for substantially less--I bet even Jabin would have been much less since they have competition between contractors. I push back because I think you paid much above the going rate and I don't want it to scare other Ericson owners from doing this type of work--even those in the Annapolis area.
Did that price include painting I hope? Did it include removing and rebedding chainplates?--which is the real weakness on Ericsons (I know because I broke one on passage that could have taken the rig with it had I not caught it).
But hey, it's your boat and your money and if you got it and don't mind dishing it out, then I can see how one would be happy with having such work done for him, no matter the cost: you can't put a price on peace of mind. I'm glad it worked out for you and that you're happy with the work at Port Annapolis! It is a nice marina and I almost kept (and lived on) another Ericson there in 2022.
I think the real "they got you" moment is when you write the check to buy the boat. After that, you have only 3 choices; spend a whole lotta your own time to keep the boat up, spend a whole lotta $, or let the boat rot.
There is still a high "real" cost to any of the 3 choices. Worse, since you never get back the money or time you pour into a boat, option C is likely the best financial return on your money.
And yet, here we are....
Analyzing boat ownership from a financial perspective (unless you're running it as a business) never adds up.
There is still a high "real" cost to any of the 3 choices. Worse, since you never get back the money or time you pour into a boat, option C is likely the best financial return on your money.
And yet, here we are....
Analyzing boat ownership from a financial perspective (unless you're running it as a business) never adds up.
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I will restate that 17K is a very hefty sum for this type work
Only if you can't afford it.
Only if you can't afford it.
Yup.It is indeed all relative for sure: I had some clients who would balk at an extra $17 and others who wouldn't bat an eye at an extra $1,700.
Bolo
Contributing Partner
So true, Williams, so true.
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