Maine Sail
Member III
Next question: Are all alternators considered self-limiting?--or only those with internal regulators? I should buy a copy of the standards.
I don't know of any that are not self limiting and they all come with a max output rating. There are still many boats out there with "generators" of which some are not self limiting hence the standards addressing the "self limiting" language. Some older alts did not publish an amperage or stamp it on the case so it would be a crap shoot trying to figure it out it's limited capability but any alt shop could test it for max output so you'd know.
My banks are fused at the positive terminals, well within 7", and I replaced the barbed wire with 4/0 AWG Ancor Marine (though I misplaced my lug crimpers, so I scotch taped the ends to the terminals--that's ok, right?--just until I locate my crimpers?)
If you run out of Scotch tape I like Juicy Fruit Fruit Stripe gum the best. Really keeps the moisture out..
I'm with ya on the dilemma of sacrificing the alternator versus burning down the boat. But I rarely motor, and my solar panel takes care of most charging needs here in Southern California. If I ever really used the alternator, I'd probably sheath that 4-foot 6 AWG and remove the fuse.
All that really matters is that you are confident the cable will never chafe through and create a dead short to ground.
I have seen my fair share of SCARY wiring. Doing a full re-wire right now on a boat where the largest wiring used was 16GA for domestic wiring and 4GA for the battery circuits. The 80A windlass was wired with 42 feet of 8GA wire! No wonder the jacket was melted!! Every crimp on the boat was done with pliers and over 80% of them pulled right out with less than 10 pounds force. There was no over current protection except for breakers. Expensive instruments were protected by a 15A breaker.
If boats like this survive then what you guys are doing you'll have no issues.
Builders run the alt the way they do because it saves them an extra fuse and some wire length. Using the starter cable as your alt charging circuit is a cheap way of avoiding multiple fuses, extra wire etc. etc..
Here is the federal law E-11 takes it's guidance from:
"FEDERAL LAW
183.460 - Overcurrent Protection: Special Applications
(b) Each ungrounded output conductor from an alternator or generator, except for self-limiting alternators or generators, must have a circuit breaker or fuse that has a current rating that does not exceed 120 percent of the maximum rated current of the alternator or generator at 60° C.
The output of alternators or generators (AC or DC) must have overcurrent protection as described in 183.455. This must be by means of a circuit breaker or fuse rated at no more than 120% (1.2 times) of the maximum rated output current of the alternator or generator. As this output rating may be temperature sensitive, a 60° C (140° F) temperature is used as a standard (see Figure 27). The only exception to the breaker or fuse requirement is for "self limiting" alternators or generators. These are devices that are designed and manufactured to provide only a certain maximum output no matter how much load is applied (i.e. they cannot be overloaded). This information must be obtained from the alternator or generator manufacturer, or may be available on the nameplate."
In Practice: You have a 100 amp alternator and an alternator wire sized properly to handle all those 100 amps. Even with full field voltage applied your alt will never exceed 100A then you don't need an OCPD at the alt end. Any rated alternator, 35A 50A, 75A 150A etc. should only put out it's max rating so it is therefore current limited.
With a non current limited device, that could exceed the wires ampacity rating, if full fielded or "runaway", you'd need OCP..
Last edited: