bilge pumps for an E27

[SER]

I have a '73 E27 that presently has one 12V, 240 gph pump and would like to add a secondary pump as back-up. I'd like a 2000+ gph pump and would like to know what other owners have configured.
I don't want to use the engine's waterpump diverted from raw water and I don't want to power an additional pump mechanically using the engine.
The bilge on a E27 is kind of limited because of a sump aft of the keel.
The boat is wintering in the north and I can't measure for equiping. What have you done?

 

[Walt Boughner]

Bilge Pumps for E-27

I just added a second bilge pump to my 73 E-27. It had a 1500 GPM with a float switch. I added an 2000 GPM and a second float switch as a back up. The first pump fits down in the aft bilge sump (trailing edge of the keel). And the new pump sets just forward of the sump. Each bilge pump is wired to a seperate battery and each pump has it's own discharge line.

If you would like I can take pictures of the set up and post them for you.

Walt

 

[Walt Boughner]

bilge pumps for E-27

Boy, with 1500 and 2000 gpm you could pump out the Queen Mary, actually that should be 1500 and 2000 GPH, Sorry

Walt

 

[SER]

If you can post photos that would be great.,Thanks

 

[Walt Boughner]

bilge pumps for E27

I'll go by the boat in the morning and if the spreaders are above water, I'll take the photos of the bilge pump set up and post tomarrow afternoon.

take care

Walt

 

[Walt Boughner]

Hi SER,

Here are your pictures.

Picture #1 shows the location of the bilge pumps.

Picture #2 shows the 1500 Rule pump down in the keel sump. When I bought the boat about 1 1/2 years ago this is how the pump was. It wedges in by its size, which limits how far it can go down in the keel sump. Its float switch is mounted on the fiberglass keel to surface. Note there is two float switche, the 1500 float switch is the darker of the two. It is towards the top of the picture.
The Rule 2000 I added, is mounted on a wood block about 1/2 inch thick, as is its float switch. This makes the trip point (turn on) higher than the smaller pump. Its discharge hose actually touches the top of the smaller pump. The wood block is secured to the keel top by SS screws and the pump is screwed to the block.

Pitcture #3 shows the wood better (white arrow). To remove the smaller pump in the sump you have to take the top pump off its mounting plate by the red buttens on either side of it (black arrow). Then the 1500 pump lifts out for cleaning or what ever.

Piture # 4 shows the discharge hoses under the galley sink. The white arrow labled #1 is for the 1500 (lower pump) and you will note it has a check valve in the line. White arrow #2 is the Rule 2000 line and it has no check valve. If it comes on we mean business and we want no restrictions in the line. Both hoses go to seperate SS through-hulls in the stern. the through-hulls are well above the water line and the hoses rise to prevent water from comming in on a following sea.

Hope this helps and if I can give you more information just let me know. Remember there are lots of ways to set up bilge pumps and I also know some E27 go with none.

 

[Walt Boughner]

bilge pumps for E27

Well SER,

It looks like the pictures didn't go through so if you send me your e-mail address I will send them to you through reqular e-mail.

I'll try to send just one picture on this post, maybe that was the problem trying to send four pictures. Attaching picture #2

Walt

 

[Walt Boughner]

bilge pumps for E27

Well again SER,

It looks like one picture per post is the way to go. Ill send the remaining three per three posts.

Walt

 

[Walt Boughner]

bilge pumps for E27

picture #3

 

[Walt Boughner]

Bilge pimps for E27

Picture #4

 

[SER]

thanks for your time and your photos.
THAT is a clean looking boat and from the looks of it I'd say you are the proud owner of a mahogony A-4.
You say that each pump has it's on thru hull discharge. Why not double up with a "t" fitting and a check valve OR a ball valve ?
How did you wire them? E-quiring minds want to know. [sorry for that last bit]

 

[Walt Boughner]

bilge pumps for E27

Yes the old E27 has a old A4 in it. It's a good one and runs like a top. Did a complete tune up this year, including water pump and carb rebuild.

I read a article and I don't remember where but it was a horror story about an plastic through-hall breaking from age and viberation causing the bilge discharge water to just cycle in the boat. So I replaced mine with the 1" Stainless Steel one. When I added the second larger bilge pump I also added the second SS through-hall. The rule pump takes a 1 1/8" hose. In an emergency, like a hole in the boat where both pumps are running I don't want the pumping restricted by a too small discharge exit hole. On a normal basis the bilge pump system just pumps out rain water, packing gland water and ice box water, but you never know.

On my E-27 I only have two batteries so I connected each bilge pump to a separate battery, Each circuit is fused but no switches other than the float switches. It's also a short run from the battery box to the pumps.

Have fun

Walt

 

[Brent Wright]

Hey Guys:
On the comment about the check valves, I thought this would be a great piece of info. McMaster - Carr catalog sales offers a
Y - Pattern Piston - check valve design that comes in many sizes that is by design almost completely non restrictive and you can clean it without removing it from the drain line. They are a little pricey but for the piece of mind that it would take something the size of the drain line itself to plug it, is great. They also come transparent for visual inspection. The McMaster catalog # for a 3/4" which fits perfectly inside 1" hose is 4754K53 for $32.

Just food for thought