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Block Comparison

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
We're replacing a lot of the running rigging this year. I'm not sure if the blocks I'm replacing are original, but they look old enough to be a possibility. Either way, they are old. All of them have small cracks in the sheaves, there's corrosion on the aluminum cheeks where the steel pins are attached, and most have significant friction under load. The two biggest problems we've seen is grinding on the metal sheave halyard turning blocks and difficulty easing the mainsheet in light winds. We've also had a Schaefer block fail on our 25+ and that's not an experience we want to relive.

The original mast base turning blocks appear to be Schaefer Series 5 or equivalent which have a safe working load of 1,750 lbs, so I used that as my target for replacement. All of the blocks I've replaced are static loads (halyards, reefing, vang etc.) so I chose Harken Element 60mm. They look good, are affordable, and use regular bushing bearings so they should be relatively maintenance free while meeting the need they are being used for.

Things got a little more complicated when I started looking at the mainsheet system. I used Harken's mainsheet calculator and estimated the worst case scenario would be 25 knots on a full main. I'd like to think I would reef or at the very least ease the sheet in anything above 25. That provided a max load of 2,410 lbs. I also wanted blocks with ball or roller bearings to make easing in light wind easier. When you start looking for blocks with ball bearings and a SWL above 2410, the selection gets slim and the prices are all over the board:

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The surprising one to me is Harken. I really like the carbo line. They are well priced and work great, but their SWL is much lower than other comparable blocks. If you want to go high load and roller bearing in Harken, you have to step up to the $202 magic block. I'm sure they are great, but that's a huge jump. Schaefer is a brand that seems to work, but I'm not a fan of their look and I still have a negative bias against them from when I looked at their shackle pricing:

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I know that isn't fair and they make great furlers, but I have a hard time using a company that prices anything like that, especially when there's better products on the market.

I've been to fisheries many times and asked for advise on blocks. I always get the same response, Harken is the best, Schaefer gets the job done, lasts forever, but is a bit heavy and Garhauer is the price point option. That seems to be the general opinion of most sailors and I've accepted it until I started looking at my mainsheet blocks. I've had great luck with Harken, there furlers have been flawless for me, every block I've had significantly reduced friction, and the traveler I installed on Luffalee was butter smooth, but they do seem to weather more than Schaefer and Garhauer. To my eyes, Garhauer is well made and very well priced. I don't see any quality issues with it. The only knock I can see is the weight, but that's not a concern to me at all. They are a little less refined than the Harken stuff, but they're even starting to address that with their newer unibody blocks. I ultimately decided on Garhauer series 40 for the mainsheet system and so far they look great:

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So, I'm interested in other folks' opinions and experience with replacing blocks and other running gear.
 

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
Christian,

The fiddle block looks like Garhauer, but I would have guessed the single blocks on the top are Schaefer. Did Garhauer change their design?
 

vanilladuck

E32-3 / San Francisco
Blogs Author
As I've been replacing blocks on Rumour, I've been using a mixture of Garhauer and Harken Element. Good stuff!
 

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
Here's the mainsheet configuration:

20240627_181637.jpg

The difference in friction is already noticeable even with the the sheet going through the old organizer. It's going to take a while to install the new deck organizers. Too much sailing to do in a shrinking summer, so we're just going to have to work with it for now.
 

bsangs

E35-3 - New Jersey
Thanks for this thread, Nick. Gave me the motivation to replace all my mainsheet gear, which I'd mentioned in a different thread could be a source of frustration. Since I'd already been pleased with other Garhauer gear on my boat - both the quality and the price - I went ahead and sourced it all out from them. Hoping she moves more smoothly now.

IMG_2067.jpegIMG_2068.jpeg
 

ConchyDug

Member III
Ok that mainsheet routing bothers me, is there a reason y'all went that route? Generally beckets need to be pointing at another block. Only saying this because you are missing out on potential purchase, maybe y'all have a reason. Also, add a swivel shackle to the end of the mainsheet attached to the becket and you won't have to untwist the mainsheet. On a side note you can drill out those old Schaefer sheaves and spin up some new delrin sheaves in a lathe or buy a new sheave at a ship store.
Screenshot_20260605-231021.png
 

bsangs

E35-3 - New Jersey
Ok that mainsheet routing bothers me, is there a reason y'all went that route? Generally beckets need to be pointing at another block. Only saying this because you are missing out on potential purchase, maybe y'all have a reason. Also, add a swivel shackle to the end of the mainsheet attached to the becket and you won't have to untwist the mainsheet. On a side note you can drill out those old Schaefer sheaves and spin up some new delrin sheaves in a lathe or buy a new sheave at a ship store.
View attachment 55581
Well, I arranged it based on Post #8, and unless @Nick J has changed it since then, seems to have worked for a couple years. My previous setup had too much purchase/friction and the triple block attached to the traveller (see photo) was so aggravating. If this doesn't work well, I'll swap for a fiddle block with a becket and rerun the sheet. Thanks for the insight.

IMG_2066.jpeg
 

Slick470

Sustaining Member
For a boat that is mostly a cruiser, Garhauer is hard to beat. Our more racing oriented Ericson built Olson was spec'd from the factory with Schaefer used for turning blocks and Harken for sail control blocks.

For our boat I've been replacing Harken with Harken but I've been replacing the Schaefer blocks with Lewmar Synchro series.
 

ConchyDug

Member III
Well, I arranged it based on Post #8, and unless @Nick J has changed it since then, seems to have worked for a couple years. My previous setup had too much purchase/friction and the triple block attached to the traveller (see photo) was so aggravating. If this doesn't work well, I'll swap for a fiddle block with a becket and rerun the sheet. Thanks for the insight.

View attachment 55582
Stacked triple blocks usually oppose another stacked triple, I can see how that would've been aggravating. With the shackle on the end of the sheet you can release it and when it bottoms out on the next block you reduce purchase for lighter breezes if you want better feel(J70, Melges 24, Melges 15 and various other OD boats do this in light air).

Garhauer looks good and works well for these classy boats! I saw a comment on buying Harken Carbos for an Ericson.... uh what.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
One caveat about "block assumptions" is that EY would often designate different vendors for different boats, or time periods. Our '88 had mostly solid axle Lawmar's for turning blocks and the housetop organizers, but used Shaefer for the foreguy and runner deck blocks. Our mainsheet tackle was/is a pair of Harken triples with attached cam cleat. The traveler blocks were Harken as well. Over the decades I have replaced the mast base turning blocks with Garhauer ball bearing ones, and recently the deck organizer - originally Lewmar axel type - with Harken ball bearing type.
I do believe that in the mid-late 80's EY was buying Lewmar stuff by the truck load. Not exclusively, however.

Aside: anyone else have some non-buyer's remorse .... over not buying up Titanium blocks from Garhauer when they built a line of them about 25 years ago? Cost was a factor for me so I passed. Way Cool, and classy tho! :)
 
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Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
Ok that mainsheet routing bothers me, is there a reason y'all went that route? Generally beckets need to be pointing at another block. Only saying this because you are missing out on potential purchase, maybe y'all have a reason. Also, add a swivel shackle to the end of the mainsheet attached to the becket and you won't have to untwist the mainsheet. On a side note you can drill out those old Schaefer sheaves and spin up some new delrin sheaves in a lathe or buy a new sheave at a ship store.
View attachment 55581
This is how Ericson originally set it up from the factory, and it’s likely the best configuration overall. However, a previous owner installed a rigid (rod) kicker over the boom vang bail and relocated the boom vang to the forward-most mainsheet bail.

I still have the 4:1 purchase, but instead of leading the tail forward to a block at the end of the boom, I routed it directly to the turning block. The original routing caused quite a bit of interference and chafe against both the boom vang and the kicker, which I wanted to avoid.

This revised setup improves alignment with the becket on the forward block, though it’s still not perfect.

Long term, I’d like to replace the rod kicker with a proper boom vang assembly. I considered doing that as part of the re-rig, but ultimately decided against it at the time due to the additional cost alongside the other work.

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Missing out on potential purchase isn't a big deal with the 4:1 because it's run to a clutch then to the main cabin top winch. There may be some concern about directing the loads to two points on the boom instead of 3.
 
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