I had someone who knows what he's doing troubleshoot my not working bow running light. He concluded that the bulb, fixture itself and connection there are O.K., that the connection at the electrical panel is now clean and O.K, and that the problem may be somewhere in the wiring inside the bow pulpit, or from there back toward the panel. He says there may be a connection in the forepeak area that could be corroded, but the path of the wiring isn't clear and access in the forepeak area is difficult. Given that I'm probably going to now be doing some more digging myself, I thought I'd find out if anyone knows the "standard" route and wiring configuration that were used on the E32-200 from the panel to the bow pulpit. Also, is there a connection in the forepeak or pulpit area between two runs of wire? Thanks for any information you may have.
Bow running light wiring problem
Mikebat
Member III
Well, I can at least tell you that we're in the same boat, you and I, literally and figuratively. I also have a 32-200, and my running lights on the bow are also not working, and as best I can tell, the problem is the wiring between the bow pulpit and the panel somewhere.
I have a drawing in my boat docs that suggests the wire runs down the port side and crosses over to the electrical panel through the engine compartment. But it may be more of a logical diagram than a representation of the physical layout.
I have a drawing in my boat docs that suggests the wire runs down the port side and crosses over to the electrical panel through the engine compartment. But it may be more of a logical diagram than a representation of the physical layout.
Akavishon
Member III
32-3
I had a similar problem on my 32-3 this summer. The bow lights stopped working, and the corresponding panel switch was frying from overload - I suspected a short circuit somewhere along the wire.
I removed the bow pulpit from its sockets, and found that the wiring went from the bow lights, through the bow pulpit, its rear port-side leg, and down below deck. Fortunately for me, I found that the wires were chaffed (not sure how) and creating a short circuit pretty much at the point where that pulpit leg plugs into its socket. It was an easy fix.
Zoran
I had a similar problem on my 32-3 this summer. The bow lights stopped working, and the corresponding panel switch was frying from overload - I suspected a short circuit somewhere along the wire.
I removed the bow pulpit from its sockets, and found that the wiring went from the bow lights, through the bow pulpit, its rear port-side leg, and down below deck. Fortunately for me, I found that the wires were chaffed (not sure how) and creating a short circuit pretty much at the point where that pulpit leg plugs into its socket. It was an easy fix.
Zoran
Bow running light wiring
I also have a 32-200 with the same issue. However, I believe my problem stems from the fact that the boat has been transported several times over land, and the wiring has simply been cut when the bow pulpit has been removed. One P.O. had cut a 2" hole in the starboard side of the anchor well, just below the rearmost pulpit stanchion, and the wiring has been spliced there. The wiring appears to run aft on the starboard (looking forward from cockpit to bow) side behind the headliner in the v-berth. This is the most direct route, as the panel is on that side above the icebox, and looking behind the zippered headliner in the storage cabinets, I have traced the wiring. I can no longer pull any slack out of the run aft from the anchor well, so the wiring must be secured behind the headliner and trim. In the past 2 months, I have been out after dark and needed the running lights, and voila, they mysteriously did not trip the breaker after 5 minutes, even with the engine running. Maybe because it was cold out and any heat building up in the wiring or the breaker dissipated enough not to cause it to trip ?(W.A.G.) At some point, I figure I will just have to run a new leg back to the breaker panel. If you guys come up with anything, please let me know.
Clayton
I also have a 32-200 with the same issue. However, I believe my problem stems from the fact that the boat has been transported several times over land, and the wiring has simply been cut when the bow pulpit has been removed. One P.O. had cut a 2" hole in the starboard side of the anchor well, just below the rearmost pulpit stanchion, and the wiring has been spliced there. The wiring appears to run aft on the starboard (looking forward from cockpit to bow) side behind the headliner in the v-berth. This is the most direct route, as the panel is on that side above the icebox, and looking behind the zippered headliner in the storage cabinets, I have traced the wiring. I can no longer pull any slack out of the run aft from the anchor well, so the wiring must be secured behind the headliner and trim. In the past 2 months, I have been out after dark and needed the running lights, and voila, they mysteriously did not trip the breaker after 5 minutes, even with the engine running. Maybe because it was cold out and any heat building up in the wiring or the breaker dissipated enough not to cause it to trip ?(W.A.G.) At some point, I figure I will just have to run a new leg back to the breaker panel. If you guys come up with anything, please let me know.
Clayton
Bow running light wire routing.
Mike, You're getting good information. Look for your wires to emerge from the aft pipe of your bow pulpit, either port or starboard. Mine are on the starboard side but I think most others are on port. In the case of mine there are two quick disconnect friction connectors in the anchor locker within inches of the wires as they emerge from the pipe. Do the easy stuff first and check the voltage at the switch panel for those lights and if good then with the bow running lights switch flipped on, crawl up there as best you can with a flashlight and a multi-meter. If you have these connectors too, pull them apart and test for voltage. If you don't have them, bring two sewing needles with you and press them into the wires for your voltage test. Hint: insert the needles several inches from each other so you don't inadvertently short then to each other. Good luck and let us all know how it turned out, Glyn Judson E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
Mike, You're getting good information. Look for your wires to emerge from the aft pipe of your bow pulpit, either port or starboard. Mine are on the starboard side but I think most others are on port. In the case of mine there are two quick disconnect friction connectors in the anchor locker within inches of the wires as they emerge from the pipe. Do the easy stuff first and check the voltage at the switch panel for those lights and if good then with the bow running lights switch flipped on, crawl up there as best you can with a flashlight and a multi-meter. If you have these connectors too, pull them apart and test for voltage. If you don't have them, bring two sewing needles with you and press them into the wires for your voltage test. Hint: insert the needles several inches from each other so you don't inadvertently short then to each other. Good luck and let us all know how it turned out, Glyn Judson E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA