Chain plate/Bulkhead help please.

[Jimbocky]

The Ericson 35 MKII I purchased has some bulkhead rot from a leak.

I have had some input already. I would like everyone’s feedback.
First photo is the issue. Second shows were on the boat. Third shows the rigging, issue is starboard forward shroud.

 

[Jimbocky]

Here are photos.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Here are photos.

Hi Jim,
They are not showing up on my computer or phone. It's possible the files are too big and didn't load. There are some guidelines in the page addressing blog creation. "shoot for sizes approx 1000 x 700 pixels - max size is 2000 x 1000 pixels" I find 93 dpi will load but still retain enough resolution to illustrate the point.
Or, it could be some other problem.
Cheers,
Jeff

 

[Christian Williams]

On a desktop computer, I just drag photos from the desktop directly into the forum pane. Desktop is probably somewhat easier than iPhone or even tablet.

If a picture is rejected because too big, I re-size using the Photos app, or whatever such app you might have.

 

[Jimbocky]

 

[Jimbocky]

 

[Christian Williams]

Some member experience:

Chainplate Issues: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/chain-plate-inspection-of-e34.12422/
Chainplate Crack, Repair: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/thread...ffect-theory-replacement-master-thread.14699/

 

[Jimbocky]

Ok thanks. Read those. My chain plate is fine it is the bulkhead that is partially rotten from leaking.

My thought is to loosen the shroud, remove the chain plate. Replace a section of the bulkhead and double up on each side to secure the partial replacement.

A few locals are saying to use some penetrating epoxy and then sandwich the existing plywood.
Just thought I would ask here.

This boat is new to me. A 1971 Ericson 35 MKII with a Yanmar 3GM30F with more equipment than you can imagine. Radar, GOS,auto helm, Sailomat 700 windvane , electric windlass, 6 self tailing Harken winches in the cabin, Barisnt and Andersen on mast, and on and on.

I am working on replacing HAYLARDS: 1 Main, 2 Head Sail, 1 Staysail, 1 Topping Lift, 2 Spinnaker, 2 Foreguy.

once I do this, secure the chain plate and change the oil I can get her off the dock.

Christian I enjoy your videos and sense of humor.

 

[Christian Williams]

The bulkhead issue has come up before, and in this thread Gabriel replaced his.

We should be able to provide experienced advice, keep at it.

 

[Pete the Cat]

The first picture shows a bulkhead that needs to be replaced. I would not approve the "sandwich" or penetrating epoxy option. This is a very important structural part of this boat. You need to be absolutely sure you get the load solidly distributed to the hull and tabbing, not just fixing the wood around the chain plate.

 

[Jimbocky]

I agree. I don’t plan to shortcut anything. Thanks for the responses. I will keep this thread updated.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

+1 to what Ray @Pete the Cat said.
It will be more work, but you you will be grateful for the peace-of-mind knowing it's solid.
Did you figure out where the water was getting in and get that repaired? I can't see the photo referenced in "Third shows the rigging, issue is starboard forward shroud."
Congrats on the new boat! Have fun with all the new gear.

 

[Jimbocky]

 

[Jimbocky]

 

[Prairie Schooner]

View attachment 55060

Oh yeah. It was time for some fixin'.
Good luck with the process.

 

[Pete the Cat]

I much dislike that welded deck plate design on the chainplate. Did all the early Ericsons have that? Decks flex and twist on the best of boats and it seems like a real challenge to get that sealed. On many production boats that deck plate is detached and floats over the hole and sealant so that it moves a bit with the twisting, expansion, and contraction of the deck rather than opening up a crack to ensure water dripping down to the bulkhead. This design sort of guarantees that, if there was not a crack there when the boat came out of the factory, it would develop one soon if you do not service this regularly.

 

[Loren Beach]

Voting with Ray. The welded-on plate looks nice, and was common to other boat builders, but does make sealing difficult. Just another reason to undercut the deck surface and fill-and-redrill for the chain plate passage. Keeping moisture out of the core is vital. Right behind that is making sure that no moisture ever gets into structure like bulkheads. Regarding the OP, this is a deadly form of Deferred Maintenance passed along from (likely) several prior owners.
(Re-bedding deck penetrations is about the Least "sexy" maintenance an owner can do, but is the single most important task to maintain a boat after the first *25 years.)
*a round number, and 20 might be better...

 

[Jimbocky]

Is there a way to detach and float that top plate short of having new ones made.

if I do have new ones made any suggestion as to where or who to have make them.

Also isn’t there something better than marine grade plywood to replace the bulkhead with?

Thanks guys. Making progress:

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Is there a way to detach and float that top plate short of having new ones made.

if I do have new ones made any suggestion as to where or who to have make them.

Also isn’t there something better than marine grade plywood to replace the bulkhead with?

Thanks guys. Making progress:

When you say better, do you mean for strength, aesthetics, price, or something else?

 

[Jimbocky]

I’m wondering if I just take a die grinder and remove the square plate and have one created.
Or just get new chain plates created with a floating square piece.