Correct way to adjust rudder packing?

[rwthomas1]

Well, today I was able to replace the packing in the E38 rudder. Initially I tried 3/8" but that was too large and the manual called for 1/4" and that was definitely too small. This is beginning to sound like a children's story..... Ended up using 5/16" teflon/flax packing. The E38 has a flange with 4 bolts that compress the packing. There appears to be no adjustment like a propshaft setup. The only way I can see to correctly install is to tighten up the 4 bolts all the way. Anything less I think would work loose and/or not seal correctly. Any input on this would be great. This is not something I want to do incorrectly. Fixing it in the water would be a royal PITA. The rudder now has slightly less tension on it than before, what I mean is the effort to turn the rudder by hand with no steering gear attached from underneath the boat. I attribute the slight decrease in effort to all the grease I used during reassembly. Thanks, RT

 

[exoduse35]

the seal is supposed to be crushed between the 2 plates and squeezed against the rudder post. the crush is provided by the 4 bolts, and adjusted there as well. you should not need to crank the bolts down tight with a new seal. once moving in the water, back the torque off until it just begins to seep then torque back down to just enough to keep the water out. from time to time you will have to re-adjust but the rudder post will thank you by not wearing itself a groove. also it is a good idea to keep enough spare seal on board that you can replace it and the stuffing box seal. it won,t deteriorate and at replacement time you will have the right stuff and won't need to guess again. Edd

 

[rwthomas1]

I just don't see how this setup can even remotely be considered "routinely adjustable" It is almost impossible to get to the adjustment bolts and there is no way to lock them.

The other issue, and I have no real way to describe it, is if the top "plate" (sorta looks like a hat), fits down on top of the rudder post side which then has a short lip, maybe 3/32". This lip is what compresses the packing. If the bolts where backed off the short lip would have very little contact and seawater would easily make it past the lower packing and into the boat.

Given that the packing I removed looked like it might be original, the bolts were socked down tight, and the rudder stock was absolutely smooth, I am not concerned about scoring the rudder stock.

I work and have worked on plenty of mechanical things and I just can't get my head around this design being adjustable. Given the location, the design, how the assembly works now it is back together, I think I am leaving it alone. Checking it for leaks and adjusting it is going to be almost impossible when in the water and/or sailing.

Lastly, the packing is approximately 12" above the waterline. I don't think it is ever below the waterline.

RT

 

[Ericsean]

Rudder Packing

Hey Rob, I just re-installed my my rudder after rebuilding (major delamination) on my 1980 E-38.

I Did find a reference to the packing being 5/16", in the owners manual on our website.

I only replaced the top ring of packing, & had to fight to get the rudder shaft through the new packing. There was a little bit of a gap left between the top plate & the packing gland, even after tigthening it up pretty good. (Rudder is a lot harder to move, but I also built up the bottom of the shaft with epoxy when I put an epoxy chamfer where the top of the rudder meets the post.

If you have no gap, maybe you need another layer of packing?

Anyway, as you said it is pretty high above the water line so it shouldn't be a big issue.
rudder

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

You will find that the E-38 esp when motoring or sailing fast downwind will squat in the stern plenty far enough to put water through the "rudder stuffing box", just pull out the packing and go for a sail if you dont believe me... Rob has done exactly what I did 3 years ago. I just snugged the bolts up reasonably tight with new 5/6 teflon impregnated packing. Not screaming tight but tight enough so they would not work loose. I pondered the same question as he. If this thing is supposed to be a stuffing box why is there no way to adjust it? No locknuts to keep the bolts in the same place? Anyway I think you will be fine Rob as you have done the same thing I did and I have had no problems.

 

[rwthomas1]

Let me be clear: The packing adjustment is down all the way. The two flanges are touching. This did not take an inordinate amount of effort, the bolts are snugged well and not going anywhere. I am glad to hear that I used the correct packing. There is no way another (fourth) ring of packing would have fit, the bolts would not be long enough to close it all up. Since the whole assembly is exactly as it was before I disassembled it, but with new packing, it should be trouble free. It did not leak before and with fresh teflon packing I hope it will be better than before. Thanks for all the input! RT

 

[Maine Sail]

Just so..

Just so you guys know Gore GFO packing works great for rudder boxes!