Cutlass bearing [Also: rudder post play]

[Christian Williams]

Have a look toward the end of this blog entry for what I did:

E32-3 - Rudder Gland Repack and Reseal, New Zerk Installed

Symptom: Water in the bilge after returning to slip. Bilge is normally dry. Cause: Rudder packing gland/rudder tube/frozen lower grease fitting. There should not be much water in the bilge of a fiberglass boat. I figure that with a dripless...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Mike Siegel]

Have a look toward the end of this blog entry for what I did:

E32-3 - Rudder Gland Repack and Reseal, New Zerk Installed

Symptom: Water in the bilge after returning to slip. Bilge is normally dry. Cause: Rudder packing gland/rudder tube/frozen lower grease fitting. There should not be much water in the bilge of a fiberglass boat. I figure that with a dripless...

ericsonyachts.org

wi

Have a look toward the end of this blog entry for what I did:

E32-3 - Rudder Gland Repack and Reseal, New Zerk Installed

Symptom: Water in the bilge after returning to slip. Bilge is normally dry. Cause: Rudder packing gland/rudder tube/frozen lower grease fitting. There should not be much water in the bilge of a fiberglass boat. I figure that with a dripless...

ericsonyachts.org

Will do , thanks for the help. On a side note its a little surreal talking to you . I have read all your books ( well you read them to me on audible). I was in the market for a c and c or tartan when this ericson fell in my lap . If not for you I may have passed on it . Love your writing style and its even better when you read it , you've kept me company on some long rides. I strive to sail with your confidence and calm demeanor.

 

[Dave G.]

Yes bearing moves

I was curious why someone would reassemble without bolting through the flange and thought maybe the bearing was seized/ corroded to the post.

 

[Mike Siegel]

I was curious why someone would reassemble without bolting through the flange and thought maybe the bearing was seized/ corroded to the post.

Even better is the steering cables are fairly new so someone was right there and ignored it or overlooked it

 

[Loren Beach]

Something seems wrong and/or odd with this boat. The top plate on our '88 is like the ones on nearby mid-80's Ericson's in my club. i.e. like the one Christian has pictured. And yes, we just reglassed the area that the top plate (and cover) bolt into with those four bolts. There was a factory piece of plywood beneath, and it had been damaged by water leaking around those bolts. As pointed out, those bolts should tighten up. Ours is now solid glass, after some labor done underneath the top of the transom.

 

[Mike Siegel]

Something seems wrong and/or odd with this boat. The top plate on our '88 is like the ones on nearby mid-80's Ericson's in my club. i.e. like the one Christian has pictured. And yes, we just reglassed the area that the top plate (and cover) bolt into with those four bolts. There was a factory piece of plywood beneath, and it had been damaged by water leaking around those bolts. As pointed out, those bolts should tighten up. Ours is now solid glass, after some labor done underneath the top of the transom.

I was told that my cockpit floor has been replaced and judging from the rough fiberglass you can see in the picture it has been . Mine looks just like the pictures though ,might just be hard to see in the picture. When I get the quadrant off I'll take better pictures

 

[Mike Siegel]

Long day today but I removed the quadrent and then dropped the rudder . I removed the prop shaft and then the cutlass bearing . I removed all the wood above the old fuel tank . Next i need to cut away the tabbing and remove the old fuel tank .

There doesnt appear to be any serviceable bushing at the bottom of the rudder shaft ? I had some play here . Also the quadrent was sitting right on the packing gland , should there be a spacer or bushing in between the two?

 

[Dave G.]

There doesnt appear to be any serviceable bushing at the bottom of the rudder shaft ? I had some play here . Also the quadrent was sitting right on the packing gland , should there be a spacer or bushing in between the two?

Mine didn't have a serviceable bushing either., it had a about an inch thick delrin like black insert molded into the bottom of the tube. Mine also had a little play which I solved by pumping grease into tube after reassembly. No spacer/bushing between quadrant & packing gland flange either. I just rubbed a little grease in there , in theory the rudder should be buoyant and not rest/ride on that surface. What is your year & hull # ?

 

[Mike Siegel]

1980 , is the hull # part of the hull id #?

 

[Dave G.]

Yes, hull ID starts with ERY30(manufacturer & model) next 3 digits are the hull #.

 

[Kenneth K]

On the 32-3, there is no lower rudder bushing, but rather an appox. 6" long sleeve bearing inside the lower part of the rudder tube:


I've heard of people inserting stainless steel sheet shims to reduce play that develops after years of wear.

Here's a view of the upper rudder bearing:



And, yeah, I have a delrin(?) washer between the quadrant and rudder post:



I added a new zerk fitting on the rudder tube to keep the lower bearing and rudder tube well lubricated.

 

[Christian Williams]

Great photos.

Another style of upper bearing is used on some 32-3s. It has only four machine screws.

 

[debonAir]

I've heard of people inserting stainless steel sheet shims to reduce play that develops after years of wear.

I used a wrap of UHMW PE tape on the rudder post where it meets the molded-in lower bushing (looks like bronze on my E35-3). Just a very thin single wrap completely eliminated significant play in the rudder and the steering is super solid and smooth. I would recommend against stainless shims because it might ride-up the shaft and/or the edge might score the shaft or bushing. Buy a few different thickness tapes: 0.005 is what worked for me. I was happy ordering from https://catalog.cshyde.com/item/ategories-tapes-with-adhesive-uhmw-tapes-1/uhmw-tape-acrylic-adhesive/uhmw-acrylic-adh-19-5a-2-18

 

[Kenneth K]

I used a wrap of UHMW PE tape on the rudder post where it meets the molded-in lower bushing (looks like bronze on my E35-3).

The bearing might be bronze. I didn't investigate, but just assumed from the adjacent rust staining that it was stainless. I suppose the rust stains could be from the rudder post itself.

 

[Mike Siegel]

I got the tank out today. Even with the quarter birth wall removed its not joke getting the tank out. Started to clean up some hoses and got a coat of bilge coat on . I added a access point under the birth, 1 because I needed to get at the starboard side of tank to cut tabs and 2 will be a nice storage spot .
On a side note I'm flirting with the idea of using the aluminum tank as a mold to make a fiberglass tank . Any thoughts?

 

[Christian Williams]

use as a mold to make a fiberglass tank

Sounds like something I would do. Not necessarily a recommendation....

Forum reports suggest welding repair is possible or a new one can be copied by a welder for reasonable cost. And then you don't have to explain a homemade tank to the next buyer's surveyor.

 

[Dave G.]

make a fiberglass tank

Fiberglass will work just make sure you research what the correct resin should be. I kind of agree with Christian, pretty easy to get it fixed or new one made that will last another 40 years. I repaired mine with epoxy and fiberglass while still in the boat and seems to holding up fine. Would be a breeze to do with it out and in the garage. Well at least compared to doing it all contorted down below. If you do go the fiberglass route keep us in the loop though, love to hear how it goes..

 

[Mike Siegel]

There is info online of people doing it . Not uncommon for custom tanks to be built from fiberglass . Not exactly sure how I would do the fittings in top for lines and fill .
I need to make a few more measurements to see if I can make a moeller tank work first. I haven't had a ton of success finding someone to make me one from aluminum .

 

[peaman]

Not exactly sure how I would do the fittings in top for lines and fill .

Cut out area of old tank where lines connect, and use that to cover a gasketed opening in your new tank.

 

[bigd14]

Looking good. Amazing what a coat of paint will do! Fix up as much as you can back there while you have the tank out. Hoses especially. Once in a lifetime opportunity to get in there with no obstructions! I went with a new tank, took the old one to a fabrication shop as a template, had them add an inspection plate, very happy with the final result.