Deck Non-Skid paint "Grizzly Grip" ...don't waste a nickel

J

JORGE

Member III
About a year ago, I said that I was going to refinish my newly restored deck by applying a non skid application. I ordered about 2 kits(gallons) of Grizzly Grip (textured paint), on line at www.grizzlygrip.com. After following their instructions, exactly!, and speaking with their advisors, I decided to try it.
their warranty says...>>."Only if there is a manufacturer problem, we do not warranty against peeling because that is a preperation problem. If your prep work is good, it will not peel or fail."<<
I applied their product onto my epoxy primer coated deck and prepared the surfaces as directed; scuffing with pad, washing down, wiping down with acetone, taping borders where I did not want the texture. Applied the Grizzly Grip to the deck areas I planned, first one coat then a second, after that it appeared to be perfect. about two months later I covered the boat for winter. However ,when I returned in March, I noticed a bubble in one of the areas, the another, and another, and then peeling and peeling. It is now almost one year old, and it looks like hell only worse... garbage.Now I have to strip off the garbage, and try something else.I have the pics to prove it, which I will post.Grizzly Grip is labor intensive and costly, the worst thing you could ever want on your boat.
Has anyone tried and believe in a non skid application, not thread master
 
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Brass Dragon

Brass Dragon

Member II
KiwiGrip Non skid deck paint

My teak decks are in sad shape so I plan eventually to take them all up. I removed the teak on the cockpit seats so far and have found that the damage caused by the screws is too much to reasonably repair, plus for some reason someone decided some areas really needed a heavy grind with a disk to remove the molded non-skid and add some deep swirly scratches. I havent gotten to deciding yet but one of my options is to roll down a non-skid paint over the molded non-skid.

I have found two products that seem like the right direction for me. One is Durabek and the other is KiwiGrip. It seems both are a polyurethane-like bedliner material and use a special roller to provide nonskid texture. I have not seen Durabek, except for their website. Our local marine supply (Fisheries Supply, Seattle) carries KiwiGrip and have had very good experience with it. They have a couple standard colors or you can take the white to a paint store and custom tint. I am inclined to go that way. If anyone has opinion on KiwiGrip, Id love to hear about it.
 
Lucky Dog

Lucky Dog

Member III
Use the other side

Brass Dragon is it possible to flip the decking over and changes sides - the port side turned over becomes the starboard side a have the boards put through a planners of wide belt horizontal sander (timesaver), This way all the defects will be facing down.

ml
 
R

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I don't have much experience with non-skid except what I put in the bottom of my Nutshell Pram. I used a coat of Interlux brightsides, then use a VERY fine sieve to disperse/dispense Interlux non-skid additive, looks like very fine white sand onto the wet paint. After it dried if swept/vacuumed up the excess and then put on a very thin topcoat to even it out. One season on it and it has proven to be very durable, provide great footing and not rough on bare skin, etc. You can sit on it, move about and it doesn't abrade you. If was quite simple to do and pretty cheap. I'm also guessing that it could be touched up easily? Done with a two part paint I would think the results would be even better. RT
 
Shamwari

Shamwari

Please Contact Admin.
Kiwi Grip

I used Kiwigrip on the deck of my e-39 last year and it has been great - easy to use and no sign of it coming up.
Two things to keep in mind are - that you need 2 people so one can peel back the edge tape before it dries to give you a good edge line, and don't get too aggressive with the texture or if you fall on the deck it can skin your knees ( I found that out the hard way).
It's very easy to touch up and I'd give it a thumbs up.

John Gleadle
 
Brass Dragon

Brass Dragon

Member II
RE: Flipping the teak planks to show the good wood

Well I am not sure if this is typical, but for my boat, Ericson cut 6" wide x 1/2" planks then cut fake grooves at 2 and 4 inches. They screwed the teak plank down directly to the non skin deck areas (except where it was not flat I guess, then they used the disc grinder on the nonskid) using sheet metal screws, mostly without any bedding or sealant. Then, they ran a bead of sealant around the outside of the completed deck and down all the grooves. Unfortunately with a 6 inch wide plank, there is alot more movement with wet/dry/hot/cold and the seams opened. Because the planks are sitting on top of the nonskid, there is tremendous opportunity for wicking. It didnt need to be all the seams because just one seam would let enough water in to make "soup" underneath. The backs of the planks were probably always wet and they have cupped pretty badly. I saved the planks to stew about what to do with them, didnt want to make a rash decision. I tried making some teak plugs out of one of damaged planks and found that the color is a dead brown and would not match well. With the damage done to the decks by the screws and risk of leaks, I have given up on teak.
 
D

DennisK

New Member
non skid

I had a boat yard apply Sikkens Non-Skid to my deck and it held up for years with no problems. A friend was impressed with the Sikkens non-skid and has done his boat several times with it and no problems. The only thing it is not available in the US. We have been getting it by internet order from Canada. Hope this helps......
 
Rhynie

Rhynie

Member III
A product I had used on my last boat and had excellent results with was an urethane concrete paint. Lowes sells it in blue gallon can and mix to match, can't think of the brand. It is sort of a flat finish, goes on easy. I sold the boat about 1 1/2 years ago and just saw it yesterday, looks great still.
 
R

RJOlm

Junior Member
Paint on non-skid

Kiwi grip worked great on my j24 even covered some crazing. Be sure you wet peel your masking or you may ruin your nice sharp edge and be careful of temp or hot sun which can make it dry before you get the texture just right.

Jeff
e-29, #370
"Hold Fast"
 
U

upnorthfrank

Member II
I'm wondering if reducer might be the better option for tacking the surface. There's no oil in it; most of the thinners have oily compounds which can effect the adhesion w/ enamel paints. Reducer lacks these compounds, which is why it's used in body shops & airplane hangers (I'm not an auto body guy but I painted airplanes once):cool:
 
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