Shadowfax
Member III
Brian,
Did you look in the archives?
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/local_links.php?catid=87
Did you look in the archives?
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/local_links.php?catid=87
e32-200 Owners Manual
The manual that came with our 32-200 is the manual for the 32-3. Not sure if Ericson had a different manual for the 200. Things like plumbing, tank locations, electrical runs are obviously different. Maybe check and see if there's a manual for the 34(-200). Same layout, so most things would likely be the same.
Clayton
The manual that came with our 32-200 is the manual for the 32-3. Not sure if Ericson had a different manual for the 200. Things like plumbing, tank locations, electrical runs are obviously different. Maybe check and see if there's a manual for the 34(-200). Same layout, so most things would likely be the same.
Clayton
Same here. I have most of the original paperwork from the first owner of our 1988 32-200, hull # 824. These models were build at the end of the Ericson saga, so I'm not surprized the manual never got updated
I believe rigging sizes and hull specs are the same as in the manual. My engine is the original Universal 25xp.
As mentioned plumbing and electrical is quite different. My electrical panel is marked for an Ericson 35. (Hand note on the back).
I have dug through and tried to figure out most of mine, so if you have any specific questions, let me know.
Dropped the rudder and checked the bushings this past spring. Had just a little play. Put it back together as it was. It's well built, and "it's not going anywhere."
Jon Berge
32-200
Neuse River
I believe rigging sizes and hull specs are the same as in the manual. My engine is the original Universal 25xp.
As mentioned plumbing and electrical is quite different. My electrical panel is marked for an Ericson 35. (Hand note on the back).
I have dug through and tried to figure out most of mine, so if you have any specific questions, let me know.
Dropped the rudder and checked the bushings this past spring. Had just a little play. Put it back together as it was. It's well built, and "it's not going anywhere."
Jon Berge
32-200
Neuse River
Also Interested in a Manual
I have a 32-200 model built in 1988, hull i.d. ERY32809I788 (hull #788?). I bought this boat last year and I think that I have figured out most of the systems so far. If there is a manual out there, I'd love to see it.
Jon, you stated that you dropped your rudder. Is it easy? How do you release is in order drop it? Does your boat have one or two grease fittings on the rudder. I have only been able to locate one fitting on mine. Do you have two brass rings at the top of your rudder post, below the quadrant? What do these rings do?
Thanks
Paul
I have a 32-200 model built in 1988, hull i.d. ERY32809I788 (hull #788?). I bought this boat last year and I think that I have figured out most of the systems so far. If there is a manual out there, I'd love to see it.
Jon, you stated that you dropped your rudder. Is it easy? How do you release is in order drop it? Does your boat have one or two grease fittings on the rudder. I have only been able to locate one fitting on mine. Do you have two brass rings at the top of your rudder post, below the quadrant? What do these rings do?
Thanks
Paul
Removing the rudder is not hard, but more work than it's worth unless you have a reason.
I had a little bit of play at the lower bushing, and the top of the rudder was rubbing slightly against the hull flange. The drawing in the manual was a little unclear to me, so I decided to do it. When I hauled , we blocked the boat pretty high up. (Less of a hole to dig in the ground to have room to remove it.) We supported the rudder and I removed the steering cables and disassembled the quadrant. (Found a few broken strands on my cables that you would't see until cables are removed). There is a hefty bolt that goes through the rudder stock and the quadrant that actually holds everything "up".
I am sure this had not been apart since 1988 at the factory, and it says a lot for Ericson quality that antiseeze had been used on all the SS bolts that holds the aluminum quadrant together! Everything came apart nicely.
The quadrant rides on a plastic washer on top of the two brass rings you asked about. This is the stuffingbox that keeps water from being pushed out the top. I had three rings of packing in excellent shape.
There is a second grease fitting for the bronze bushing that holds the top of the rudder stock in place. This bushing w/housing is bolted to the underneath of the cockpit sole, and the grease fitting ends up between the quadrant and the sole. A tight fit and a long reach for the grease gun!
I had looked for this in the past, but did not find it until now.
The lower "bearing" is nothing but a bronze bushing either glasses or glued in the rudder tube. After all this we decided not to remove it. After looking at the design, I'm convinced the rudder wont go anywhere!
I had the yard build up a little layer of glass where the rudderstock meets the hull. (Should be a plastic washer here also).
On this boat the grease fitting on the rudder tube itself is above the lower bronze bushing. There is quite a bit of "volume" in the tube, so it took one and a half (!) tube of grease before anything came out the bottom!
This job took care of the rubbing between rudder and hull, somehow the play disappeared (partially new "wear" surface on rudderstock?) and gave me piece of mind.
Jon
I had a little bit of play at the lower bushing, and the top of the rudder was rubbing slightly against the hull flange. The drawing in the manual was a little unclear to me, so I decided to do it. When I hauled , we blocked the boat pretty high up. (Less of a hole to dig in the ground to have room to remove it.) We supported the rudder and I removed the steering cables and disassembled the quadrant. (Found a few broken strands on my cables that you would't see until cables are removed). There is a hefty bolt that goes through the rudder stock and the quadrant that actually holds everything "up".
I am sure this had not been apart since 1988 at the factory, and it says a lot for Ericson quality that antiseeze had been used on all the SS bolts that holds the aluminum quadrant together! Everything came apart nicely.
The quadrant rides on a plastic washer on top of the two brass rings you asked about. This is the stuffingbox that keeps water from being pushed out the top. I had three rings of packing in excellent shape.
There is a second grease fitting for the bronze bushing that holds the top of the rudder stock in place. This bushing w/housing is bolted to the underneath of the cockpit sole, and the grease fitting ends up between the quadrant and the sole. A tight fit and a long reach for the grease gun!
I had looked for this in the past, but did not find it until now.
The lower "bearing" is nothing but a bronze bushing either glasses or glued in the rudder tube. After all this we decided not to remove it. After looking at the design, I'm convinced the rudder wont go anywhere!
I had the yard build up a little layer of glass where the rudderstock meets the hull. (Should be a plastic washer here also).
On this boat the grease fitting on the rudder tube itself is above the lower bronze bushing. There is quite a bit of "volume" in the tube, so it took one and a half (!) tube of grease before anything came out the bottom!
This job took care of the rubbing between rudder and hull, somehow the play disappeared (partially new "wear" surface on rudderstock?) and gave me piece of mind.
Jon
Thanks and Sorry
Jon,
Thanks for the information. I have only located one zerk fitting for the tiller shaft so far and it did take a lot of grease.
Brian K,
Sorry about taking over your post. I have a 32-200 and would be glad to help you and others in any way that I can.
Safe Sailing
Paul
Jon,
Thanks for the information. I have only located one zerk fitting for the tiller shaft so far and it did take a lot of grease.
Brian K,
Sorry about taking over your post. I have a 32-200 and would be glad to help you and others in any way that I can.
Safe Sailing
Paul
32-200 owners manual
Don't feel bad I'm also looking with no luck, if by chance you found one on different site please let me know. Im trying to fine out if the port windows lenses are replaceable. There all cracking, do you know of a place to replace them??? Thanks greg Toledo Ohio....
Don't feel bad I'm also looking with no luck, if by chance you found one on different site please let me know. Im trying to fine out if the port windows lenses are replaceable. There all cracking, do you know of a place to replace them??? Thanks greg Toledo Ohio....