Yes, gone...do you happen to have a photo of what the original ceiling/headliner handy? He said he has all the trim pieces but no headliner. I am thinking the usual zippered vinyl is a possibility.
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K2MSmith
Sustaining Member
Yes ! I have tiller steering . This was definitely a plus for me . Yes, I have the universal 25. I had all belts , fluids, pump impeller and questionable hoses replaced. That was about 1200 here in Bay Area . List marine did the work . I could have done the work myself but I dislike crawling around below the cockpit and was not that familiar with marine diesels when I bought the boat . The advantage of a baseline service by a pro is that they will tell you what’s wrong , make recommendations and also educate you on the engine ( if they are good ! )
Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
Lots of great advice here!
Try SAMS (Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors) to find a surveyor in north PA. This website seems to show maybe 50 for the entire state and I am sure many would travel a reasonable distance to you::
www.marinesurvey.org
Try SAMS (Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors) to find a surveyor in north PA. This website seems to show maybe 50 for the entire state and I am sure many would travel a reasonable distance to you::
You searched for - The Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
www.marinesurvey.org
Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
Make sure you find one who knows sailboats. 
Not all of them do.
Not all of them do.
markvone
Sustaining Member
I believe the holly in the two removable panels will line up with the rest of the floor if you reverse them (pull ring aft vs fwd).
Mark
How simple and ingenious! Think you're right!
Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
Your pictures look great and you seem to be getting a terrific deal. Remember it is a nearly 40 year old boat, so there will be projects. Nothing you have listed or questioned seems unusual for a boat this age.
Some comments on the E-33
They are wonderful boats to sail but they do have a pretty powerful sailplan (SA/D 19.9 which is more than many or most production boats). But this sailplan makes it "tender." It will heal readily and it with move with just a wisp of a breeze. It is a fine performer in light air (BeneHuntAlinas will be left in your wake). It goes to windward exceptionally well. And when the wind increases you must be: 1. Aware and 2. Ready to reef. If you have occasional squalls on lake Erie as I think you do, you must be ready or you will be on your ear!
I have enjoyed it when we have been able to hoist our asymmetric gennaker for a bit more downwind sailing, too. That can really be a blast too and with a sock we have managed it short handed, with just me and the admiral.
Some comments on the E-33
They are wonderful boats to sail but they do have a pretty powerful sailplan (SA/D 19.9 which is more than many or most production boats). But this sailplan makes it "tender." It will heal readily and it with move with just a wisp of a breeze. It is a fine performer in light air (BeneHuntAlinas will be left in your wake). It goes to windward exceptionally well. And when the wind increases you must be: 1. Aware and 2. Ready to reef. If you have occasional squalls on lake Erie as I think you do, you must be ready or you will be on your ear!
I have enjoyed it when we have been able to hoist our asymmetric gennaker for a bit more downwind sailing, too. That can really be a blast too and with a sock we have managed it short handed, with just me and the admiral.
Just wanted to share with you to see if you have immediate reactions to these photos below. You can see the new heat exchanger:
Thank you for your comments and advice. Yes, read a lot about being tender. That's ok at this point. I often sail with my family usually on very gentle wind days...and my kids in fact really like steep heeling angles and rolling movements. Currently the ("new") main is not rigged for reefing, thus that will be my top priority as I will need to move the boat from Lorain, OH to Erie, PA, which is about 100nm journey, usually on starboard beam reach. I'd like to participate in club family JAM races down the road, so looking forward to passing a lot of boats upwind!
I'd like to correct my previous posting on the Keel bolt leak. I previous wrote,
3. One of the keel bolts apparently "leaked", ie, some water was disappearing right near the bolt. Thus he unscrewed and sealed that keel bolt. Where would the water go if disappeared through some crack near the bolt? Empty void within TAFG? Deep sump in the hull? (see photos)
However, after talking to the current owner, found out that the water was actually coming in very slowly from one of the keel bolts. It was a very slow flow, and he waited until she was on the hard later that season to fix it by using 5200. This made more sense to me instead of water disappearing into the "void" from the bilge. Since this sealing, no water comes in anymore from that bolt (or any other bolt).
3. One of the keel bolts apparently "leaked", ie, some water was disappearing right near the bolt. Thus he unscrewed and sealed that keel bolt. Where would the water go if disappeared through some crack near the bolt? Empty void within TAFG? Deep sump in the hull? (see photos)
However, after talking to the current owner, found out that the water was actually coming in very slowly from one of the keel bolts. It was a very slow flow, and he waited until she was on the hard later that season to fix it by using 5200. This made more sense to me instead of water disappearing into the "void" from the bilge. Since this sealing, no water comes in anymore from that bolt (or any other bolt).
If your sale goes thru- I will be happy to take several photos of the headliner, where the zippers are and photos of the teak trim.
Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
Good pictures. I see a new exhaust mixing elbow and some newer hoses, too. Good things.
I also see a severe dent or crimp in the oil filter. Change tat before your trip. You probably would want to change the oil, anyway. The breather hose is just pointed at the air filter hosing and there is no filter element on it. Original had a porous filter stretched around the "cage" which you see there as the air filter housing. Many here have replaced that with a nice K&N air filter and drill it and put a proper fitting on it to connect that breather hose to the filter as a crankcase ventilation device. Doing that may reduce oil vapors & fumes as well as oil misting or spray in the engine compartment.
I also see the alternator bracket which appears to be the old, faulty style which could cause the forward timing chain housing to break. If that happened, it would likely mean a new engine. That part is no longer available. That may be thousands $$$.
Here is a link on how to replace that bracket
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Yep, that oil filter looks damaged and the alt. Bracket being replaced. Looks like some wiring needs to be cleaned up as well- overall it looks just like every other M25. I will also note that there is a Ericson 33 that has sailed from NY down to the Equator. Great read of Bill’s adventures. https://www.sailblogs.com/member/sail.destiny
One more thought:
There is space between the top of the keel and the bottom of the bilge. You can see this thru the tubes that connect the different section of keel bolts. Any water that may be in that space could show at any keel bolt. Water will find the easiest way up and out. So, even if the bilge is dry and the stuffing box is dripping, the water will find it’s way to the bilge. It will collect in the void of the TAFG and then eventually find its way up thru these tubes. In theory - the washer and nut may be just loose in that section and was weeping water up thru that bolt. The CO may not have takin this in to consideration and just thought the keel bolt or joint was leaking.
There is space between the top of the keel and the bottom of the bilge. You can see this thru the tubes that connect the different section of keel bolts. Any water that may be in that space could show at any keel bolt. Water will find the easiest way up and out. So, even if the bilge is dry and the stuffing box is dripping, the water will find it’s way to the bilge. It will collect in the void of the TAFG and then eventually find its way up thru these tubes. In theory - the washer and nut may be just loose in that section and was weeping water up thru that bolt. The CO may not have takin this in to consideration and just thought the keel bolt or joint was leaking.
K2MSmith
Sustaining Member
Engine looks like it’s in similar condition to mine with new-ish looking hoses and belt . As others have mentioned , it looks like original alternator bracket . They have a reputation for failing at the case cover.. Until you replace it , I would immediately suggest checking the belt tension . I have a feeling that the failure could be caused ( or at least aided by ) an over tight belt because the point of failure is where the forces are concentrated when the belt is tensioned excessively . ( this is my theory and take with a grain of salt )
Bilge leaks are sometimes really difficult to trace . I wouldn’t necessarily jump to the conclusion that you have a leak from a keel bolt until you isolate it. What I did is purchased some modeling clay on Amazon and I used it to “dam” one bilge compartment at a time after drying it with a towel . If you dam the entry channels and after a few hours bilge stays dry , then the leak is likely coming from somewhere else . In my case , it was (1) from a dripping packing nut and (2) sometimes from condensation the mast dripping down and closed collecting in forward compartment.
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Thank you for the link, but I've been on this for a week. So far, everyone seems to be scheduling out surveys 3-4 weeks out, which is not possible fo me. Might be able to find someone from afar, then of course expenses go up. Currently, thinking of hiring some specialists (rigger, etc) instead.Lots of great advice here!
Try SAMS (Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors) to find a surveyor in north PA. This website seems to show maybe 50 for the entire state and I am sure many would travel a reasonable distance to you::
You searched for - The Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors
This is very interesting. I wish I could visualize this but can't. I will contact you via PM to see if I can go more info from you. Thank you!
Based on this photo of the rig, this is simply a tuning issue and should easily be resolved. You can get it close at the dock, but any mast must be tuned under sail to get it just right. But this is a normal thing. If you are not comfortable doing this, engage a rigger who has worked on race boats to do both the dock tune and go out for an hour or so sailing. Getting the wedges at the partners right, setting the rake at the mast step, and then tuning the shrouds and you will be good to go. What I cannot tell is the condition of the rigging itself, the terminations to the T fittings, etc. Is this rod or wire? The other issues have been well addressed by other members. Will you race the oat is generally just daysail/cruise? Good luck!
shepherdsond
Member I
Don't fixate too much on the purchase price, after 2 years this will be a small fraction of your total costs. Be realistic about the cost (and time) of repairs and the difficulty of fixing cosmetics. A good survey is essential.
Good advice, thank you. Mostly day sailing and cruises first, but eventually I'd like to get involved in casual club family races. My boys are learning on Optis now, so hopefully they can crew.
I am terribly afraid that the CO does not even have any wedges. Rod rigging except the usual backstay, forestay and running back stays. Very slight green patina on shroud turnbuckles. Not sure you can pick up anything from the photos below... Definitely more complex rigging than I am used to.
