E-35 MKII Mast Step Innards

[jmoses]

Has anyone delved into the actual deck-stepped mast base itself on a E-35 MKII (vintage 1972 to be exact)?

Due to prior owner issues (plywood bulkhead crack at hull on port side near deck in head compartment), core delam stbd side of mast step, compression post movement, etc.) it needs to be addressed.

I need to drop the stick and dig out the mast step base innards. Should be fun as it's my last monumental effort on this 6 + year rebuild project - address the mast and mast step.

As best I can tell, there is a metal plate epoxied in place that's approximately 3' x 2' in there that helps distribute the load and makes the mast base solid (with other stuff in there as well, I'm sure). The Mahogany compression post supports the mast step/base inside boat at the top via that measly little square epoxy (?) cube that's starting to crack on my boat. That has to be cut out and replaced as well. The P.O. actually drove a 6" x 1/4" screw into the 'cube' from below, at an upward angle, tying the compression post to cube thinking that would stop it's slide to stbd. I can confirm this is not a good idea! It detsroys the 'cube'. Better to re-tab the port bulkhead and add a backing plate where crack was with bolts is a much better idea.

At the base of the compression post in the bilge, it's fiberglassed to the hull.....that's gotta go as well and look at any water damage at base of post in that fiberglass 'cup' that's holding it in place.

I have it on next year's project list and need to think about running lines aft, re-stepping the mast with a ever so slight tilt fwd to get some aft rake out of it, repace standing rigging, and rewiring the mast's various DC and VHF circuits in it as well. While I'm at it.........Paint it! The old white paint is looking grim.

John M.

 

[gareth harris]

John - funny you should ask.

I wish I could give you the pictures I have taken, but it seems Dell have lost my computer (I shipped it to them for repair a few weeks ago, but instead of sending it back to the same place they picked it up in NY, it went to my old address in Florida, where it was signed for by someone I have never heard of, who now hasn't got it....) So here is a description.

Under the visible step, there is a layer of gel coat covering a steel (not stainless) plate - that is the visible oval shape. Under that is plywood in strips embedded with epoxy, which extends about a foot either side, rather like what you found when you did your aft lower chainplate. The soft area on the port side sounds like exactly what I had on starboard - I have round in all three areas of plywood core that the top deck did not laminate very effectively.

I am not sure about the piece immediately under the deck, I suspect it is solid epoxy, as the pieces that hold the bulkhead over the chainplates are.

The mahogony post extends down to the cabin floor, but not through it, therefore it does not come into direct contact with the block under the floor, which seems designed to rot. The only way to get access to that when mine was replaced was by pulling out the holding tank (which I have immediately aft of the bulkhead next to the post). Ghastly job because of the access.

I will post the pictures eventually, so if it is a while before you get to the project, check back here.

Gareth

Freyja E35 #241 1972

 

[gareth harris]

I forgot to mention the wiring. It was all automotive grade and useless. I added a coax for VHF, got a new cable from Signet for the masthead sensor, and then ran duplex for the masthead light. I ran one red wire for the steaming light, and tapped into the ground for the mast head - probably a waste of time, as there was not much of a cost or weight saving. If I had waited another two years for that project, I would have put in much thinner wiring and used LEDs at the top. I used Glyn's method with the big fat zip ties to stop the wires banging, it was a real pain but it has worked.

According to the owner's manual, the mast is designed to stand straight, if you find a better setting, I hope you will fill in the rest of us.

Gareth

Freyja E35 #241 1972

 

[jmoses]

E-35 MKII mast

Gareth,

I had a local rigger on the boat a few years back (he's an ex-America's cup rigger from the 70's and 80's). He suggested taking about an 1/8th of an inch off the bottom of the fwd section of the mast and taper it back to nothing at the aft end of the mast base. This would give a slight tilt fwd which would allow raking the mast aft a bit (via the aft stay and the 2 lower fwd stays) to gain some bow and rake in the mast. I did get a little bow and rake in the mast ala his tuning, but it's too much to take on the deck all the time (unless I put in an adjustable back stay adjuster = $$$$). It would drive the mast through the boat eventually.

Using the lower fwd stays and tuning the rig appropriately, we were able to change the sail shape a bit and improve the flow characetristics. However, I think some more bow and rake would help.

John M.

 

[gareth harris]

Freyja came with an adjustable back stay, which helps, but the mast does not bend much with the kind of tension I like to put on the boat. Maybe once I have my new deck, I will be willing to add a bit more.
I will hopefully post pictures next week.
Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972