E-38 forward anchor hatch

[jimk]

Currently installing a windless and decided to paint the hatch underside. So i removed the hatch and noticed some excess moisture dripping from the edge and decided to do some investigative work only to fine the balsa core soaked. my question is, does this hatch require a core product for structure or can it be re-glassed to get the support needed.fficeffice" /><O></O>

 

[C Masone]

Mine is the same on my 32-3, I am repairing it right now, and it definitely needs some structure to maintain the curvature. I poked around the boatyard and checked out the structure on a couple of Catalina’s and an Islander and they did not have anywhere the thickness of structure that mine had. Also the balsa core extending to the edge as it does is only asking for it to happen again. I have chosen to laminate two layers of 1/8" masonite under a layer of fiberglass matting and a layer of fiberglass clothe. This is all ending 1/2" from all edges to fully seal the core material. I wouldn't use masonite in any other more important areas but this will be sealed in a way that no water should be able to intrude.

 

[C Masone]

Here is what it looks like right now, later it will be done

 

[jimk]

Yes I see it does need structure now that I have stripped all the wet balsa. I was also planning a different edge detail then original I like your approach most likely will do the same. I haven’t decided on the core material as of yet, there is some really cool products just for this application however they are very $$$$$ <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

[newpbs]

I'm glad you posted

I have my hatch in the garage right now. It is soft and spongy. I was considering doing something along the line that you are doing.

How is the masonite working in regard to weight? I would not want to add additional weight to the hatch if I could help it.

Thanks for taking time to post photos.

Anyone else have suggestions for a stiffening material that would be lighter?

Paul

 

[C Masone]

Well compared to the ten gallons of water it was retaining it is very light.

It is two small pieces of 1/8 inch not too heavy.

Seems that this was a bad design issue, there was no way this wouldn't eventualy fail.

I traded up from a C&C 29, this boat is so much more poorly thought out, cabinets were installed with no access to pumbing, an adult cannot fit into the cockpit sail locker, the fuel filter is in a place you can't get a wrench onto it, I could go on.

 

[Emerald]

Anyone else have suggestions for a stiffening material that would be lighter?

Paul

klegecell is a strong, light weight, water impervious core material:

http://www.diabgroup.com/aao/a_products/a_prods_3.html

However, don't overlook redoing with balsa. I haven't seen one of these hatches first hand, but my guess would be the water intrusion probably started around fasteners versus a crack in the fiberglass skin. Rebuilding with balsa and epoxy potting all holes would probably work fine.

 

[Loren Beach]

We found some soft wet balsa around the screws for the hinges and also a bit around the slide-bolt piece that secures the anchor well top.
All we had to do was gouge out the wet coring for about a half inch where each screw went thru, and back-fill with thickened epoxy from the back side. Redrill and reinstall.
I also did the over-drill and epoxy and redrill for the same screws where they went thru the fore deck.

This is something that the prior owner probably ignored for a long time on your particular boat.
.... And kind of like the blank stare you get when you ask a sampling of owners of boats over 20 years old when they last rebedded all of their deck fittings.


Loren

 

[jimk]

I been in touch with a company in Seattle called fiberlay http://www.fiberlay.com/<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
and got a good bit of information. I most likely will go back with a balsa core encapsulated to prevent and water intrusion. My hinges and latch system are already solid fiberglass so the core should be sealed and dry. According to the company new balsa core material installed properly will have no issues. Fingers crossed.<o></o>

 

[C Masone]

klegecell is a strong, light weight, water impervious core material:

http://www.diabgroup.com/aao/a_products/a_prods_3.html

However, don't overlook redoing with balsa. I haven't seen one of these hatches first hand, but my guess would be the water intrusion probably started around fasteners versus a crack in the fiberglass skin. Rebuilding with balsa and epoxy potting all holes would probably work fine.

No, solid fiberglass around al the fasteners, the core was brought all the way to the edge with no structure for the joint between the edge of the cover and the skin that covered the balsa, the joint opens up and you have a sponge.

I have nothing against balsa, I just know that two thin sheets laminated to the curve of the cover have created a very strong structure and they are now 1/2" from the edge and not flush with the top edge of the well where they can soak water.

 

[Emerald]

the joint opens up and you have a sponge.

Well, that's pretty gross. Sounds like you have scoped out the cause and are on a decent path to fixing it.

 

[WBurgner]

E38 Windlass Install

Jimk,
Back to your initial post. Please post pictures and a description of the windlass installation when you are done. Intermediate postings would be of interest too.

Sounds like a great project.

 

[jimk]

I will post some photos once i really get started. The hatch repair wasn't part of the original scope but needed to be repaired first. Once it is complete I will be able to return to the original project the windless. Isn’t this always the way it goes, start with one project which turns into several just to finish the original one.fficeffice" /><O></O>
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[WBurgner]

Share the pain

We can all sympathize with you there. One project begets three.