E32-3 1986 Access via galley sink opening. What maintenance/replacments are advised?

[Norwester]

Just removed the sink under 15 minutes (replacing leaky faucet & old spouts), and have greater access to items under sink where following reside: fresh water manifold, Whale foot pumps, Shurflo water pump, ball valves, freshwater lines manifold, etc. With this increased access to this area, what might you do? (I've got this idea from @Christian Williams when he removed water heater and found all sorts of things to do with increased access @Kenneth K , you'll noticed newly repositioned Universal M25 fuel filter assembly (sans hose clamps..."in the mail").

We've already rebuilt the Groco raw water intake with o-ring kit and replaced raw water hoses. Replaced fuel system hoses and now have awesome access to attach those soon-to-arrive hose clamps. Lubricated ball valves from interior...except one that doesn't move (Argh!).

Yes... clean up and maybe paint the area
*replace freshwater lines? / manifold? / any fittings (none leaking)?
*add accumulator tank (none exist and pump keeps high pressure without constant pumping)?
*electrical / engine ? (new air filter style?...got part numbers?)
*new sink hose (age unknown)?

Any ideas welcome
(note to self: When replacing sink, ensure easy (10 min?) removal to help with any future engine (whatever) work).

 

[Loren Beach]

*add accumulator tank (none exist and pump keeps high pressure without constant pumping)?

Regarding this one item, I added an accumulator many years ago, to our boat. Noting that having reserve pressure in the water system could happen anywhere in the system and not just near the pump, I added an accumulator under a settee where I had good access to a water line that was routed toward the head compartment. i.e. you can T off the accumulator just about anywhere, on the pressure side of the pump.

 

[Nick J]

Here's what I ended up doing:

35-3 New Sink

We're firmly in the putting-things-back-together stage of our work this winter and with that comes installing a new sink. This one was high on my wife's list. The old sink wasn't too bad, but it was small and somewhat flimsy. We found the new one on Amazon: Sink...

ericsonyachts.org

A 35-3 is a little different than a 32 due to the extra beam and ability to separate the engine compartment from the cabinet, but some of the ideas could still apply. The sink is in the way of a lot of things, so you're on the right track taking advantage of its absence.

 

[Norwester]

@Nick J Thanks for the blast from the past...and I've attached image of your finished masterpiece here for others to see... Wow! That's worth an Everett tour on its own! (Pro Plumbing below sink, as well.) I recently searched for faucet replacements that fit in the 2 hole, 8" center configuration...RV chepos or Lowe's poorly designed stalwarts, which might allow a crewmember to hold the low profile spout if their legs fly out from under them.
However, your faucet style was really what I was hoping to find: one with pull-out faucet head and hose.

Darn...you've already got me contemplating a tack...at a $500 price tag (current Amazon pricing from your helpful hyperlinks). I'll definitely measure for 17" x 19" x 9" sink opportunities/constraints.

Back to list of To-Possible(s) BELOW the sink:
@Loren Beach Thanks for heads up regarding location..."you can T off the accumulator just about anywhere, on the pressure side of the pump." I'll look for tips on working with the existing freshwater lines on someone's blog here.

Great timely start...looking for more ideas..
O.

---
There were other real gems in the conversation, such as, Steve's @u079721 " I frankly didn't see the need for the sink to be bedded with caulk at all. So when I reinstalled the sink I just left off the caulk, and it made getting to the plumbing underneath that much easier in the future." Exactly! (Oh...Sorry to all those having to suffer through 5200 removal episodes.)
@Nick's sink removal: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/removing-galley-sink.20244/

 

[nquigley]

Definitely get rid of the OEM metal air filter - when you open it up, you'll likely find the thin sponge-like filter is clogged up and may have begun decomposing and, worse, that the metal grid has rusted and may be about to start sending metal bits into the engine.

I use this filter from K&N: RU-2450 (about $65 on Amazon). Do you the small tube of oil they supply to pretreat the crevasses in the pleated filter.

 

[Norwester]

Definitely get rid of the OEM metal air filter

Good call @nquigley . Thanks!
I've purchased the RU-2450, and will ask on another forum thread why I need to spend another $70 on JEGS Air Oil & Water Separator, fittings and tubes....maybe just a tube and recycling bottle, like @Second Star , who wrote, "I ran my breather hose down into a clear recycled plastic bottle zip tied onto one of the fwd engine mounts (M-18)." I like the simplicity of this.

Regarding the filter change, @sharonof shared, "Did not notice any difference except feeling better about it." (Isn't that what matters most.)

PS. Without the sink, removing the old Readi-Amp charger was a snap. 2nd coat of bilge paint coming up.

 

[Loren Beach]

About the factory hose from the crankcase breather... Our factory M25XP engine had this hose leading straight down beside the engine and dripping oily waste. Noticing that all the later versions of this engine have the hose routed up-n-over to the intake side, I replaced this with the newer formed hose and attached it to the outside of the air intake canister. No more oil drip and no more odor.
AFAK, all later engines (1990-something, and onwards) have their breather hose led like this. I have seen other brands of engines with that hose led to a nipple on the intake manifold just inward from the air filter.

Note: you did not ask, but just one of the many deluxe features of on-line forums like this is receiving unsolicited advice from strangers ! Reducing both heat and odors in the engine compartment is why I run the exhaust blower whenever the engine is running. The intake for the the hose is led up to the top of the compartment, near the heat-sensitive alternator.

If you do not mind one (more) opinion about remounting the SS sink, I would definitely seal it down with at least a weak-bond sealant like silicon. I do not want water from rinsing the dishes wandering under the flange/edge and under the counter.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

. . .
I've purchased the RU-2450, and will ask on another forum thread why I need to spend another $70 on JEGS Air Oil & Water Separator, fittings and tubes....maybe just a tube and recycling bottle, like @Second Star , who wrote, "I ran my breather hose down into a clear recycled plastic bottle zip tied onto one of the fwd engine mounts (M-18)." I like the simplicity of this.
. . .

I had the same reaction. I'm installing a K&N on our M25 and decided to try this water strainer. Under $10 on Amazon. The bowl is polycarbonate which is the same as the JEGS. I wish it were a longer bowl, but I couldn't find that feature with barbs of the right size. I might take out the screen to reduce flow resistance. But as I understand it, there isn't that much air pressure. It will be interesting to see how much oil collects.

Water Strainer, 1/2Inch Hose Barb in-Line Strainer Twist-On Sprayer Filter for Water Campers Boats​

by Kobeleen

 

[Norwester]

Super helpful unsolicited inputs, @Loren Beach and @Prairie Schooner , and I replied here on thread dedicated to an existing "air filter" thread. I learned something new regarding diesel mechanics on my lunch-hour.

Agreed @Loren Beach : "least a weak-bond sealant like silicon"
I cleaned up the robust Whale spouts, and will probably reuse them, rather than using the newer Whale telescoping & swing spout some folks may be using now after replacing originals...unless telescoping and swing is galley life transformational.