E38 Refrigeration
- Thread starter our38
- Start date
We beefed up our refrigerator with 2' of new foam and fiberglass to finish. We lost a bit of room but it was still sufficient for two people on board in Mexico. Put in the Norcold conversion kit with the compressor in the bottom of the locker to the left of the oven with a vent. Compressor hardly ever ran.
I'll see if I can track down some pictures of the work but it's been a while.
supersailor
Contributing Partner
I dumped my galley fridge unit (located in the cockpit locker) for an Isotherm unit. It is now located under the bottom drawer in the galley sink area. The old unit drew 13 amps and was an air water cooled unit. The complication was unbelievable. The new unit is rated at 2.5 amps and does a better job of cooling. I like it so much that I am converting the Nav Station icebox to a freezer. I am using a larger unit that draws 3.5 amps and I am putting the compressor in the front of the Nav Station foot well. They are that q
uiet.
uiet.
You have your galley on the starboard side at the companionway? If so, which storage area do you want to cool - aft next to the sink or forward of the stove?
We have an air cooled 12 VDC Adler Barbour that works well enough cooling the L-shaped icebox next to the sink in our starboard galley version. The compressor is in the forward inboard part of the starboard lazarette, and draws air from under the sink. In hot weather it's kind of inefficient due to the adjacent engine compartment and a warm lazarette. I can look around for pictures or take some tomorrow.
Craig
We have an air cooled 12 VDC Adler Barbour that works well enough cooling the L-shaped icebox next to the sink in our starboard galley version. The compressor is in the forward inboard part of the starboard lazarette, and draws air from under the sink. In hot weather it's kind of inefficient due to the adjacent engine compartment and a warm lazarette. I can look around for pictures or take some tomorrow.
Craig
That's the way my Dometic is set up. Simple, works well. 38F at #1 setting, 6 amps when running, under 2 amps/24 hours overall (I think, data collection incomplete).
(But I have a hunch that testimony from us fellows in the PNW or even SoCal coast, with cold water and temperate summers, may not directly apply to Florida in August)
(But I have a hunch that testimony from us fellows in the PNW or even SoCal coast, with cold water and temperate summers, may not directly apply to Florida in August)
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Baslin
Member III
My old unit I pulled out was an Adler Barbor, R12 unit. Hole in the evaporator. The old units last a long time. Im hoping this one will last me atleast 10years. Im also hoping for a little more efficiency. Ill see how it does this summer when the water temp is 80 degrees and its 104 ambient temps..haha. Gotta love Texas Summers.
Thanks for the picture now I know what was previously screwed onto the wooden slats in my aft freezer box! I have an usual setup as my forward freezer box has both a Seafrost engine compressor with raw water condenser coil as well as SeaFrost 110AC unit. I'm tempted to replace the AC unit for a DC unit for off the dock use.
our38
Member II
Thank you for the replies and photos.
As Craig noted, it turns out that there are two Ice Boxes on the 1980 E38, both on the starboard side. For now, I'm thinking that the L-shaped icebox next to the sink might be the best place for new refrigeration, and I plan to leave the existing cooling-plate for now, unless someone suggests that it should really be removed and re-insulated.
I'm curious to know why you would draw air from under the sink? I'll have to monitor the temperatures between the starboard lazarette and space beneath the sink to see how much they differ ?
Did additional insulation need to be added anywhere? I suppose not, since it already works pretty well as an icebox; it's just a pain to carry a bunch ice down to the boat ...
As Craig noted, it turns out that there are two Ice Boxes on the 1980 E38, both on the starboard side. For now, I'm thinking that the L-shaped icebox next to the sink might be the best place for new refrigeration, and I plan to leave the existing cooling-plate for now, unless someone suggests that it should really be removed and re-insulated.
I'm curious to know why you would draw air from under the sink? I'll have to monitor the temperatures between the starboard lazarette and space beneath the sink to see how much they differ ?
Did additional insulation need to be added anywhere? I suppose not, since it already works pretty well as an icebox; it's just a pain to carry a bunch ice down to the boat ...
One note about ducting in some airflow -- you can always add some ventilation.
Friend of mine build a bunch of (approx) 6 by 6 inch teak louvers to go around the fronts of all the settees in his E-38.
Having more fiberglass inside the Olson and less teak, I used plastic vent louvers and also replaced a solid door under the galley with mesh screening. Air flows through readily for the compressor and fan mounted there.
There are ready-made louvers you can install in any solid teak door, for instance.
Friend of mine build a bunch of (approx) 6 by 6 inch teak louvers to go around the fronts of all the settees in his E-38.
Having more fiberglass inside the Olson and less teak, I used plastic vent louvers and also replaced a solid door under the galley with mesh screening. Air flows through readily for the compressor and fan mounted there.
There are ready-made louvers you can install in any solid teak door, for instance.
Teranodon
Member III
Bob,
Terra Nova is shaping up as the Perfect Cruiser! How much (and what kind) of battery power will you have?
our38
Member II
Batteries :
We have three batteries, two larger batteries, and one car size battery (starter battery); these are connected to a battery charger and a battery monitor / management device. The larger batteries will always be drained first, saving the started battery to start the engine when necessary. I believe I will always have enough power for refrigeration, although if I ever decide to turn the icebox which is located forward of my stove in to a freezer then I may need to do more research AND fabricate a much tighter lid ...
Vents / Louvers :
Being quite new to all this, and not being familiar, at all, with other Ericson's, I don't quite understand whey anyone would need install louvers on the face of all settees ? The configuration of the cabin must be quite different than ours. We have seating and table tops on both the Port and Starboard sides of the mast. The port side houses two storage areas and the holding tank, and the starboard side has two 15 gallon water tanks beneath the seat cushions with a table top that can be that can be dropped down and fitted between the two for a single sleeping area .
I would guess that the icebox and settee must be on the same side for the E38 you're speaking of ?
We have three batteries, two larger batteries, and one car size battery (starter battery); these are connected to a battery charger and a battery monitor / management device. The larger batteries will always be drained first, saving the started battery to start the engine when necessary. I believe I will always have enough power for refrigeration, although if I ever decide to turn the icebox which is located forward of my stove in to a freezer then I may need to do more research AND fabricate a much tighter lid ...
Vents / Louvers :
Being quite new to all this, and not being familiar, at all, with other Ericson's, I don't quite understand whey anyone would need install louvers on the face of all settees ? The configuration of the cabin must be quite different than ours. We have seating and table tops on both the Port and Starboard sides of the mast. The port side houses two storage areas and the holding tank, and the starboard side has two 15 gallon water tanks beneath the seat cushions with a table top that can be that can be dropped down and fitted between the two for a single sleeping area .
I would guess that the icebox and settee must be on the same side for the E38 you're speaking of ?
Ventilation
Ventilation is both vital to keeping mold and mildew out or at least minimizing it. It grows on the hull interior anywhere there is no air circulation to carry off the moisture that otherwise deposits on the surface from condensation. If you can discourage the "black spots" from growing and thriving in the hidden spaces, there will be fewer spores to migrate out to the rest of the boat.
When you keep those (semi) hidden areas clean and dry you also eliminate 99% of that "old boat smell" that is so common when the hatch is opened.
Well, that, and making sure that your old head system hoses have not permeated! :0
Loren
Ventilation is both vital to keeping mold and mildew out or at least minimizing it. It grows on the hull interior anywhere there is no air circulation to carry off the moisture that otherwise deposits on the surface from condensation. If you can discourage the "black spots" from growing and thriving in the hidden spaces, there will be fewer spores to migrate out to the rest of the boat.
When you keep those (semi) hidden areas clean and dry you also eliminate 99% of that "old boat smell" that is so common when the hatch is opened.
Well, that, and making sure that your old head system hoses have not permeated! :0
Loren
our38
Member II
Thanks very much for that info Loren. I'll pull the storage boxes out just have a look.
Pretty sure the original owner didn't keep the inside of the boat as dry as we do. After any rain I come down to the boat to sponge any excess water out of the bilge, keep a DampRid hanging, and keep a heater on, especially this time of year. I will spend some time and look for those dark spots .
Pretty sure the original owner didn't keep the inside of the boat as dry as we do. After any rain I come down to the boat to sponge any excess water out of the bilge, keep a DampRid hanging, and keep a heater on, especially this time of year. I will spend some time and look for those dark spots .
our38
Member II
Thanks for everyone's input. 
It looks like the Dometric CU-100 compressor, and the VD-152 Evaporator is what I'll be doing. It will be easy enough to put a hole in the back wall of the icebox, and set the compressor on a shelf in the cockpit locker just above the outside of the icebox.
It looks like the Dometric CU-100 compressor, and the VD-152 Evaporator is what I'll be doing. It will be easy enough to put a hole in the back wall of the icebox, and set the compressor on a shelf in the cockpit locker just above the outside of the icebox.
supersailor
Contributing Partner
Stephan, I'm using two Group 31 AGM's for the house side and a Group 24 AGM for the Starter battery. I was going to try to find a good spot for more batteries until I found LED lights, super efficient refer units and AGM batteries. I am also using a Blue Seas automatic charging relay. Some love this system and some don't but it always gives a fresh start battery even when the house bank is way drawn down and it isolates my electronics from spikes when the starter is engaged.
I don't recommend taking air from under the sink. I inherited this refrigeration from a previous owner. It is very quiet when running but you can hear it if you pay attention. I have thought about a sintered bronze heat exchanger system that gets its temperature differential from our cold sea water but have balked at drilling another hole in the bottom of the boat. Improvement of the fridge isn't high on my list, though. It works ok. I just wish the coils were easier to clean. It sounds like you've chosen a direction to go. It should work fine.
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No one has mentioned dealing with the heat from the condenser. Mine is in the lazarette, with a large cowl vent on the coaming over it, which works passively with the two large cowls on the transom. Even so, the lazarette gets hot. Which reduces efficiency of the heat exchange.
Thermodynamics ain't my game, but clearly the condenser should not be in a confined area.
Thermodynamics ain't my game, but clearly the condenser should not be in a confined area.
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our38
Member II
I'll take some temperature readings to see how much difference there is between the space beneath the sink, which is separated from the engine compartment by a 3/4" plywood wall - with vent holes I believe, and the area in the lazarette where I'm planning to install the CU-100 compressor. Venting to one of those cowl's seems like a fine idea also.
I also considered the water cooled Dometric but decided that my learning curve with all this sailing and sailboat stuff was quite steep enough, without drilling additional holes in the hull . That, and the fact that this E38 has been without such things for 37 years, so why go to all that work if I don't really have to.
My next project will be trying to figure out the best (read- least expensive way) to add a Windlass. Installing one just aft of the anchor locker is on the list, but we'll see; that's later in the year, or next year maybe.
I also considered the water cooled Dometric but decided that my learning curve with all this sailing and sailboat stuff was quite steep enough, without drilling additional holes in the hull . That, and the fact that this E38 has been without such things for 37 years, so why go to all that work if I don't really have to.
My next project will be trying to figure out the best (read- least expensive way) to add a Windlass. Installing one just aft of the anchor locker is on the list, but we'll see; that's later in the year, or next year maybe.