Engine Additive ?

[Sam Vickery]

The Universal 25 on my Ericson 32 (1986) is about to give up the ghost. The compression is low in one cylinder (105) making it difficult to start. It is also leaking from every nock and cranny. It is my intent to replace the engine. But the cost (about 10K) will require me to wait a bit on this. I understand there are oil additives that will stop some of the bleeding (oil leaks and low compression). Has anyone used any of these products and has there been any success? It is my hope to get another 100 hours before I repower. In the meantime, I am learning to sail in and out of the slip. However, there are days when the wind is just not very cooperative.

Sam
Northstar
1986 32'

 

[Loren Beach]

My '88 M25XP Universal has close to 2K hours and is running fine. So sorry to hear of your problems! I have used some of those "trick" additives in decades past for gasoline car engines, but have no experience with this stuff in many years.
About the replacement cost, The current replacement cost for the M25XPB, complete with panel and trans, is about 6K in my area. The excellent BetaMarine runs about 6.5 to 7K.
If you are handy with tools, this is a good DIY project with some real savings to your pocketbook.....

Best,
Loren in PDX
1988 Olson 34

 

[jmoses]

Oil additives?

Sam,

Not to be condesending, but have you tried torqueing down the various nuts and bolts where the oil is weeping?

Also, what about reconditioning said diesel? It would certainly be cheaper than $10,000 for a new one........ You don't say how many hours are on it though, but usually several thousand hours (if well maintained) is doable. At least a thousand hours would be acceptable in my view before any major maintenance is due (injectors, etc.).

As for a weak compression reading, it may be one of many things such as: loose head bolt(s) (real easy fix with torque wrench), leaky head gasket (fairly easy fix by replacing gasket), bad/seized/broken rings (uhhhh...not so easy to fix), and things such as bad liner honing, loose or missing seal in injector seat, bad/stuck valve(s), etc. Some fixes are easier and less $$$ than others. But cobbling it along until re-power or renew is possible.

One trick to get better compression is to add a few drizzles of motor oil into the bad cylinder before starting. Granted, this requires removing the injector to squirt the oil in, but if needed, it's worth it (better than crashing into dock). Also, WD-40 sprayed into intake while cranking helps 'light-off' the diesel as it's basicaly a well refined petroleum product which is highly combustable. It's similar to kersosene.

Anyway, try a thicker oil. If using 30 weight, try a more viscous (thicker) oil (40W?). Also, try changing oil brands as well. Each company adds its own 'slicker than snot' additive with some being more slippery than others, causing oil leaks to appear when used due to the 'slippery' additives. Also, changing oil more often to keep viscosity at correct level is an idea. There are those 'older high milage' oils out there, but not sure if they are available for diesels or if they even work....no experience with them.

As for additives, I am not a big fan, but if you are going to replace/renew the engine anyway, they probably won't do too much more harm. Others may have ideas. Just stick lots of oil-sorbs in the bilge to keep the Coasties off your back.....that possible $5,000 fine is half your budget!

John M.

 

[oceandreams89]

Sam,

Try a quart of "Marvel Mystery Oil" added to your crankcase oil. Run the engine for a while and it just might do the trick. You can also add it to your fuel tank in smaller quantities as well. The bottle has all the directions.

I had low compression in a cylinder in my sports car a few years back and it was due to a stuck piston ring. The mechanic suggested I try the MM oil and within a few weeks the compression was normal. (cheap fix and it has stayed that way!) My neighbor has run it since new in his 80's Jeep cherokee. The vehicle now has 280,000 miles and all he has done is change the oil.

I run MM oil now in everything I have with an engine, and after a few years of my own experience, and the experiences of others I know who use it, I am a believer that it works wonders. (although why is still a mystery....)

You might also have a mechanic check your valves and valve clearances. If one is not seating correctly when closed your compression will suffer, and that could easily be isolated to one cylinder.

Best of luck,
Todd