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Engine - refurbish or replace ?

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Thanks Rob, for a common sense viewpoint!
And use a strong light and a small mirror on a stalk if needed, but check that starboard side rear mount -- that one was down to metal-on-metal when I decided to replace all of ours. It's very hard to see.

Idle thought: I have #8 and Jay has #9, I wonder who is sailing #10? Same crew probably built out all of these.
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
- I don’t have a gauge but alternator belt tension appears to be good ( not too tight ) . I could believe that an over tensioned belt would cause the mount on engine to break .
You don't need a gauge. Here's a trick that works well: Find the longest exposed length of belt between the pullies. You should be able to twist it exactly 1/4 turn. If you can twist it more, it's too lose; less, it's too tight.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
I'll throw this in...love this channel. This young woman did a repower (A Beta Marine engine) on her boat mostly doing the work herself in remote area.. it's over a few videos here is one of them.

 

p.gazibara

Member III
I feel like I should add another option to the OP’s list.

You can always go electric. I did it on Cinderella for $1600, including a cheap set of batteries. That was 5 years and probably 15,000nm ago.

I did have to buy a quality set of batteries in 2018 for $1200. It was my fault, I left the old ones without any charging source when we flew back to the USA and left the boat in Tahiti for 4 months. We came back to dead batteries. Even then, we were able to revive them enough to go sailing around French Polynesia until the new ones arrived

Beside those batteries, the only maintenance I have done on the drive system over the past 5 years was changing one $15 drive belt.

Sounds like you current engine has plenty of life left in it, so carrying on most likely the best option. Nice to have time on your side, especially when batteries just keep getting cheaper.... opposite of diesel
 

wynkoop

Member III
Based on what you say about the engine operation and looking at the photos please take Alan's advice. Don't worry, be happy!

My old P-60 gas engine looked much worse than that for years. What finally got it was a stuck valve that was impossible to deal with in the boat and I decided since the P-60 was getting hard to source parts for I swapped in a diesel when it died.

Diesel engines are simple machines. If it works don't fix it.
 

wynkoop

Member III
I feel like I should add another option to the OP’s list.

You can always go electric. I did it on Cinderella for $1600, including a cheap set of batteries. That was 5 years and probably 15,000nm ago.

How did you swing that price? When I was looking the electric conversion for my boat was going to be much greater than that!
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
How did you swing that price? When I was looking the electric conversion for my boat was going to be much greater than that!
Based on my perusal of some of the well-known suppliers ( like oceanvolt) , I would also like to hear more ! Repowering with a functional electric system is definitely no cheaper than a new diesel. That’s for sure .
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
I’ll investigate further . It looks like the top part of the bracket has been replaced. I would hope with steel . It’s definitely not the replacement new bracket design though shown in that site . Is the top part the source of the failure?
The new bracket is designed different and is necessary. If you break the timing cover you will need a new engine because that cover is not available anymore.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
The new bracket is designed different and is necessary. If you break the timing cover you will need a new engine because that cover is not available anymore.
Yes , I noticed that after looking at it a little more closely. ( see additional photos I posted ) . It seems there are a few vendors for the bracket kit . I want to make sure I buy the right one .
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
Yes , I noticed that after looking at it a little more closely. ( see additional photos I posted ) . It seems there are a few vendors for the bracket kit . I want to make sure I buy the right one .
I went through the Catalina store...they have the most manufactured boats including Kubota engined parts (including alternators) and keep a great supply of similar to Ericson products at a fair price.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
I did a full write up of the conversion on www.sailingcinderella.com

Its not as pretty as an oceanvolt system, but it does the job.
Thanks for that reference P! Your site (and ”Sailing with Uma”) got me interested in electric power now. Actually my boat and mission are a perfect candidate for conversion because (at least for now) I use the engine to get in/out of the marina and that’s about it - so even an lead-acid solution with 4 hours of range is probably good enough for what I do. I don’t want to change the topic on the thread, but it seems like my best option right now is to keep my diesel going for next 2-3 years and in the meantime I can start researching an e-power solution.
 

Chris Mc.

Member III
Thanks for that reference P! Your site (and ”Sailing with Uma”) got me interested in electric power now. Actually my boat and mission are a perfect candidate for conversion because (at least for now) I use the engine to get in/out of the marina and that’s about it - so even an lead-acid solution with 4 hours of range is probably good enough for what I do. I don’t want to change the topic on the thread, but it seems like my best option right now is to keep my diesel going for next 2-3 years and in the meantime I can start researching an e-power solution.
From viewing your initial engine photo, my suggestion is to replace the air intake filter you have. It looks like a makeshift/homemade filter and the crankcase breather hose isn’t connected. Dirty air entering the intake is a quick killer of piston rings, which are key to combustion, compression, and horsepower.
Maybe what you have will suffice, but for peace of mind I’d look into it.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
K&N, fine Ericson Forum air filters since, uh, 2011.

 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
K&N, fine Ericson Forum air filters since, uh, 2011.

I use that one too. I put a sticker on top of the unit indicating 'K&N' and their part number for easy re-ordering.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
Very interesting observation yesterday....

I had been blaming my tired engine on significant vibration at certain RPM ranges. I rarely every run my engine in neutral at the slip (except at idle before I leave/enter) , but yesterday I decided to start it up. It started on the first try and I let it idle. After a while, I thought I would just rev it up to a higher RPM range. When I did so, the engine is completely smooth ! Not vibration at all - even at full throttle.. 'mmm. So that does confirm the vibration is something in the drive train, prop or possibly engine mounts... I do have records from PO that the cutlass bearing was replaced on last haul out.. Not sure there is anything I can do to self-diagnose, but I think i've eliminated the engine itself. Any ideas ?
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
Very interesting observation yesterday....

I had been blaming my tired engine on significant vibration at certain RPM ranges. I rarely every run my engine in neutral at the slip (except at idle before I leave/enter) , but yesterday I decided to start it up. It started on the first try and I let it idle. After a while, I thought I would just rev it up to a higher RPM range. When I did so, the engine is completely smooth ! Not vibration at all - even at full throttle.. 'mmm. So that does confirm the vibration is something in the drive train, prop or possibly engine mounts... I do have records from PO that the cutlass bearing was replaced on last haul out.. Not sure there is anything I can do to self-diagnose, but I think i've eliminated the engine itself. Any ideas ?
With a new cutlass bearing, that’s one possible problem checked off already.

...Sounds like you’re inevitably in for a swim to see how it looks below. Could be as simple as something fouled on the shaft or prop. Fixed or folding prop?? ...look for wobble (loose fit of the blades or a blade that’s kept from fully opening throwing it out of balance. Worst case would/could be a bent shaft.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
With a new cutlass bearing, that’s one possible problem checked off already.

...Sounds like you’re inevitably in for a swim to see how it looks below. Could be as simple as something fouled on the shaft or prop. Fixed or folding prop?? ...look for wobble (loose fit of the blades or a blade that’s kept from fully opening throwing it out of balance. Worst case would/could be a bent shaft.
My diver/bottom cleaning service is pretty good about mentioning anything awry ,I have been looking for an excuse to don my own dive gear and check out the boat , make sure I have all the thruhulls accounted for, prop , keel etc . So good suggestion. I have a folding prop . I can check that out. I’ll make sure trans is in neutral; maybe manually spinning to check alignment of prop and shaft .
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
My diver/bottom cleaning service is pretty good about mentioning anything awry ,I have been looking for an excuse to don my own dive gear and check out the boat , make sure I have all the thruhulls accounted for, prop , keel etc . So good suggestion. I have a folding prop . I can check that out. I’ll make sure trans is in neutral; maybe manually spinning to check alignment of prop and shaft .

Definitely...You’re on the right track!
 
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