Ericson 30-2 Owners

[AirbenderMDR]

Ericson 30 Mark II - Hull # 1

Hull #1 was the original Show Boat. She was also the boat featured in the manufacturers brochure for this model. My father acquired this boat as the first owner after it was done making the rounds for the manufacturer. He named her Windsprinter. He owned her until he passed away in 1991. It was then given to me by his widow and I kept her for another few years and eventually sold it. She was kept in Marina Del Rey, CA. We raced her frequently in the PHRF races at MDR. I enjoyed this boat a great deal. She was sailed to San Diego, Oceanside, Dana Point, Catalina and Marina Del Rey. I don't know where the boat is now... last I heard she was in Ventura, CA.

 

[Dave N]

More pics!!

 

[rbonilla]

Thanks, Seth. That makes sense. Although we have only had our 1984 30+ for just under two years, we are really pleased with how she sails, both in light air and when we were out in 28 knot winds and 4-6 foot white-capped waves. Having owned two smaller boats in the last 15 years, this is the first time my wife refers to the boat as "our boat", and she has truly become a partner in sailing her.

Were there many changes in the E30+ boats from when they were made in 1979 til production stopped, and if so, what changes and why were they made?

Thanks again.
Frank.

Hey Seth...sorry to just "drop in " on the conversation...but I do have a quick question for you...What is the best way to determin from an ericson hull number...if it is a 1985 e28 or a 1985e28+..? and if a +...what are the exact dimensions or measurements that would have changed from a "regular 1985 ericson 28"..?....cheers...thanx....richard / colorado ... :nerd:

 

[Seth]

hull ID #'s

Sorry to say the memory of the logic behind the numbering system has faded so I can't give you a clear answer.. I left there in 1982..There are others here who probably can though.

As for the 28 series, I do not think the 28+ and 28 were made at the same time (I am pretty sure they were not). The 28 was a mild evolution of the 28+ and has some subtle dimensional differences as I understand it-During my time there we were building the + series and not anything else in the 25, 28 and 30' range. If you look at the brochure section for the 28 and 28+ here on the site you can see the differences. The 28+ was created as a smaller version of the 30+, which was created loosely from the tooling of the 30-2 in an attempt to develop a market-current 30 footer without the expense of a fresh design. So the hull tooling on the 30-2 was modified to created the 30+ , and then the 30+ tooling was modified to make the 28+.

IIRC, the 25+ and later 25 did not use the old 25 tooling from the early-mid 70's, and was a fresh design which came out in the very late 70's. I could be wrong on this, but this is how I remember it.

 

[Elitephotos]

Fellow Ericson Owners,
Would like to know if there are any other Ericson 30-2 Owners out there that follow this great site, I am contemplating setting up a registry of Ericson 30-2 owners,(maybe a little more agressive than the one at this site) as there where only 47 built. Planning to start an Ericson 30-2 web site, photos of owners yachts, upgrade's & projects,
Have a preliminary list of about approximately 25% of the Ericson 30-2's, via this site and a search of the net. I need to ask the help of other Ericson owners to help locate the rest of the E 30-2's. I am in the process of tooling up half-model wall plaque's which will include the Yacht's name, Owner's name and Hull number.
If you know of an E30-2 (outboard rudder / predecessor to the 30+) in your area, please forward to me the details / information on the yacht, or inform the yacht's owner to contact me. (or both)
Best Regards
Michael Tock
1978 Ericson 30-2 "Asgard"

Great Idea! I am always looking for individuals with the same boat to help with questions regarding rigging, sailing, hardware, etc. I have hull #10, 1978, "Reverence". I would to love any feedback anyone might have. I also need some help with repairing/fixing the bow railing (pulpit). It is slightly bent/cracked and part of the flanges are bent with the screws pulled out of the boat slightly. I sail in Lake Michigan and have owned my boat since 2012. You can reach me through here or at elitphtgraphy@yahoo.com.

 

[Alan]

Trying to fit a Universal 3-20B engine into my E30-2

I own hull #27, a 1978 model, and am trying to figure out if a Universal M3-20B will fit into it. Has anyone ever replaced a YSM12 in an Ericson 30-2 with a Kubota blocked engine?

The original YSM12 has a horizontally running piston and no oil pan protruding below it. The new M3-20B, which I have had for a few years and never installed - because the YSM12 continued to run, has an oil pan that extends downward several inches. I may have to get a pan from a Betamarine 20 that uses the same Kubota block, but has the oil drain on the side of the pan instead of on the bottom. The oil pan drain assembly on the M3-20B, with a hose leading up to the side of the engine thru which the oil is to be pumped out, extends more than an inch below the bottom of the pan. If Betamarine won't sell me a pan, I might just replace the oil drain assembly at the pan bottom with a bolt with a filed down head. I can reduce the extension of the pan by 3/4" that way. Oil changes can then be accomplished by sucking it out of the dipstick hole. I have made a lot of measurements so far and need to analyze them to see if there is any possibility of putting the engine in there without unreasonable modifications - such as changing the angle of the shaft. I'm pretty sure that the existing oil pan draining assembly will have to be removed - and even then there may not be enough clearance. I assume that the hull is a half inch thick below the engine and that a small area of that, maybe an eighth of an inch of thickness, can be ground away. I'd like at least an eighth of an inch of clearance below the engine after it is installed. I'm doing the installation myself - professional installation is too expensive relative to the value of the boat. I think I can do it for about $2500, if I also replace the fuel tank and the exhaust system. I know I'll need a new prop and, possibly a new shaft. The existing shaft is big enough at 1" but it may be worn or something. The tank doesn't leak, but it is probably 36 years old.

While on a cruise from Seattle to Bedwell Harbour last year, the YSM12 became difficult to start last year and would sometimes quit while running - but could be restarted. The fuel tank was cleaned and a vacuum indicator put on the Racor before the cruise, so fuel supply was not a problem. Water was coming out the exhaust, as it should be. It totally failed one evening as I entered Roche Harbor - where I became acquainted with Officer Barnes, a surprisingly officious and belligerent customs officer. (another story - but he has a reputation) Anyway, a mechanic got it started by warming up the cylinder by turning it over with the decompression lever pulled and then it started haltingly. His conclusion was that the compression was too low. I also had water in the oil. I ended up sailing it back to Seattle without the benefit of the engine. Parts are not very available for the YSM12 and the block is likely just about toasted anyway after 36 years of raw salt water cooling. It might break if I attempted to disassemble it.

I like the boat's sailing characteristics. However, I would likely not be installing a new engine if I didn't already have the M3-20B with zero hours on it. The project seems to make some sense compared to selling the boat as is for almost nothing.

 

[captainic]

1979 E30-2 hull#36

Hi, I recently purchased hull#36 here in San Francisco Bay. Hauling her out this week, looking forward to sailing her after a new bottom paint, lifelines and a few other minor repairs/upgrades. Cheers!

 

[captainic]

Ericson 30-2 lower rudder hinge bracket

Hi,
Would anybody know the construction details for the transom-mounted rudder lower hinge bracket. Mine is loose (note: I am NOT talking about the bushing, which is loose too, but can easily be fabricated). The hinge bracket forms one piece with a shaft that is inserted into the hull. Is this shaft bolted from the inside then glassed in, or was it originally glassed in without a way to tighten it? Cheers, -Nic

 

[a3n]

Rudder info

Hi, here is the original wheel brochure, which has some info on how the rudder was hung

Hi,
Would anybody know the construction details for the transom-mounted rudder lower hinge bracket. Mine is loose (note: I am NOT talking about the bushing, which is loose too, but can easily be fabricated). The hinge bracket forms one piece with a shaft that is inserted into the hull. Is this shaft bolted from the inside then glassed in, or was it originally glassed in without a way to tighten it? Cheers, -Nic

 

[SAILING THE JJ]

New E 30-2 owner

Hello Michael,
We just bought a 1978 30-2 last week and are very excited to joint your group and learn more about our boat. I am out of town right now and dont known the hull number. When i get home this weekend i will figure it out and let you know. Our boat is moored in Isleton, CA. She doesnt have a name yet but we are working on that. keep me updated on your registry and if you need any help let me know.
Thanks, Cookie

Fellow Ericson Owners
Would like to know if there are any other Ericson 30-2 Owners out there that follow this great site, I am contemplating setting up a registry of Ericson 30-2 owners,(maybe a little more agressive than the one at this site) as there where only 47 built. Planning to start an Ericson 30-2 web site, photos of owners yachts, upgrade's & projects,
Have a preliminary list of about approximately 25% of the Ericson 30-2's, via this site and a search of the net. I need to ask the help of other Ericson owners to help locate the rest of the E 30-2's. I am in the process of tooling up half-model wall plaque's which will include the Yacht's name, Owner's name and Hull number.
If you know of an E30-2 (outboard rudder / predecessor to the 30+) in your area, please forward to me the details / information on the yacht, or inform the yacht's owner to contact me. (or both)
Best Regards
Michael Tock
1978 Ericson 30-2 "Asgard"

 

[a3n]

Ericson 30-2 in MDR, CA

Michael,

I own a 1978 ericson 30-2, "Eclipse" Hull nr: ERY30X12M78H.
I have been restoring/upgrading her for the last year and she sails like a champ.

Looking forward to seeing your progress in the registry

Sincerely

Adrian

 

[SAILING THE JJ]

pictures

Can you post some pics?

 

[a3n]

Eclipse

 

[SAILING THE JJ]

#19

Ok i figured it out I am the proud owner of 30-2 #19. Anyone know anything about her?

Hello Michael,
We just bought a 1978 30-2 last week and are very excited to joint your group and learn more about our boat. I am out of town right now and dont known the hull number. When i get home this weekend i will figure it out and let you know. Our boat is moored in Isleton, CA. She doesnt have a name yet but we are working on that. keep me updated on your registry and if you need any help let me know.
Thanks, Cookie

 

[bigtyme805]

Sorry for the late response on this. I also owned a 30+ and really loved it. The 30-2 was what I was looking for but could not find one at the time I was looking. Seth talked about the era of outboard rudders and the wheel coming into play. After owning a wheel and now an outboard rudder it would be hard for me to ever give up the outboard rudder. The feel you get off these is remarkable. I see why a lot of J Boats have them. The feel is like no other. That probably is one of the great things about the 30-2. Only 47 made, what a shame!

 

[captainic]

Thank you for this original wheel brochure

Hi, here is the original wheel brochure, which has some info on how the rudder was hung

Thank you Cookie. This is great info. I will put a link to your post on the thread Ericson 30-2 lower gudgeon
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?13126-Ericson-30-2-lower-gudgeon

 

[captainic]

Crack on bottom of hull ahead of keel sump

After coming back from a rough outing in typical San Francisco Bay weather (20-25 knots, heavy chop) I noticed a lot of water in the bilge. I initially believed I took water in from the base of the lifeline stanchions, which I know need re-bedding (we had the rail under water for a good part of the outing). However the next day I noticed that my bilge pump would keep kicking in every couple hours or so. After painfully trying to totally dry up the bilge with sponges (to look for any leaks around the keel bolts), I noticed water squirting inside the boat through a crack lined up with the center of the boat, on the bottom of the hull just ahead of the keel sump. I had the boat hauled out the next day, and to my amazement there was a significant crack just ahead of the keel sump (see photo), straight through the hull. I purchased the boat in January, had it surveyed then (in the water) and it was found to be structurally sound. Then I had it hauled out for inspection and a new paint in March, with no visible cracks then. I was wondering if anyone has had any similar problem with their E30-2? The yard told me they can fix it better than new, but it will be expensive to do it right (not just a patch). Any advice welcome.

 

[captainic]

Thank you Cookie. This is great info. I will put a link to your post on the thread Ericson 30-2 lower gudgeon
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?13126-Ericson-30-2-lower-gudgeon

I meant, thank you a3n!

 

[toddster]

After coming back from a rough outing in typical San Francisco Bay weather (20-25 knots, heavy chop) I noticed a lot of water in the bilge. I initially believed I took water in from the base of the lifeline stanchions, which I know need re-bedding (we had the rail under water for a good part of the outing). However the next day I noticed that my bilge pump would keep kicking in every couple hours or so. After painfully trying to totally dry up the bilge with sponges (to look for any leaks around the keel bolts), I noticed water squirting inside the boat through a crack lined up with the center of the boat, on the bottom of the hull just ahead of the keel sump. I had the boat hauled out the next day, and to my amazement there was a significant crack just ahead of the keel sump (see photo), straight through the hull. I purchased the boat in January, had it surveyed then (in the water) and it was found to be structurally sound. Then I had it hauled out for inspection and a new paint in March, with no visible cracks then. I was wondering if anyone has had any similar problem with their E30-2? The yard told me they can fix it better than new, but it will be expensive to do it right (not just a patch). Any advice welcome.

:0:0:0

I would be interested to know what their proposed method of repair would be. And perhaps my advice would be to get a second opinion/quotation.

Is the sump weak so that the keel wobbles or flexes? Is the bottom of the bulkhead still bonded to the hull? (Just trying to figure out what happened and hoping that my boat isn't susceptible.)

Not saying that this is directly relevant to your problem, but it might be. I once considered adopting a boat that had developed keel wobble, but it had an external bolted-on keel. My plan (following others with the same model) was going to involve building a grid of stringers and floors to stiffen the sump area, incorporating a new backing plate for the keel and installing new longer keel bolts to bind it all together. But 1. That was only the first of this boats problems and 2. It would have reduced the headroom in the cabin below my tolerance. Better boats were available for less effort. (And that boat had no sole to be cut out of the way, either.)

(The PO's solution, BTW, was to pour the sump full of epoxy. Yes, over the keel bolts and everything. Didn't work. Just left another mess for someone to clean up.)

Depending on what the quote for the "right" repair is, some options to consider might be.
1. Do a "patch" repair and enjoy the boat for as long as it lasts.
2. Haul it to your back yard and do the project yourself at much less cost (but loss of the boat for a season.)
3. Make a lateral move to another boat for less money.

 

[Rick R.]

:0:0:0

I would be interested to know what their proposed method of repair would be. And perhaps my advice would be to get a second opinion/quotation.

Is the sump weak so that the keel wobbles or flexes? Is the bottom of the bulkhead still bonded to the hull? (Just trying to figure out what happened and hoping that my boat isn't susceptible.)

Not saying that this is directly relevant to your problem, but it might be. I once considered adopting a boat that had developed keel wobble, but it had an external bolted-on keel. My plan (following others with the same model) was going to involve building a grid of stringers and floors to stiffen the sump area, incorporating a new backing plate for the keel and installing new longer keel bolts to bind it all together. But 1. That was only the first of this boats problems and 2. It would have reduced the headroom in the cabin below my tolerance. Better boats were available for less effort. (And that boat had no sole to be cut out of the way, either.)

(The PO's solution, BTW, was to pour the sump full of epoxy. Yes, over the keel bolts and everything. Didn't work. Just left another mess for someone to clean up.)

Depending on what the quote for the "right" repair is, some options to consider might be.
1. Do a "patch" repair and enjoy the boat for as long as it lasts.
2. Haul it to your back yard and do the project yourself at much less cost (but loss of the boat for a season.)
3. Make a lateral move to another boat for less money.

Man, I hate to see anyone go through that! Maybe Seth can give you some input on why it happened. Does that vintage Ericson have TFG?

When the yard says "expensive" ask them what exactly that means $$$?

If nothing else, at least you got to enjoy the boat so far!
Rick