Christian, I will be painting at least part of the deck where I have quite a bit of wear in a couple of weeks. Any idea what paint is being used, or otherwise recommended ? (pictures look nice) --Steve
On my 26 I used Awlgrip from US Paints. It is a multi part marine polyurethane that's designed to be flexible. It is wonderful stuff that looks stunning. It is slow drying so it is difficult to spray. I did the spraying myself. The job came out good but it took a lot of patience and work to keep it from running. Awlgrip must be sprayed.
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He's compared it to AwlGrip and the type of epoxy is similar (both being aliphatic iirc), with the difference being that AlexSeal is formulated to be better for roll/tip. When hardened, they are both hard epoxies.
On the 1985 32-3, I'm repairing my rub rails, transom and other areas and about to put an order in so pulled the whites of their color chart (https://www.alexseal.com/resources/color-selection/topcoat) up on the iPad and laid that in different places on the boat. The original gel coat varies in shading in different places so nothing will be 100% but T9132 cloud white was closest.
In the sun protected area beneath a locker door:
On the foredeck:
Ford cloud white happens to be the color of my F150 in the background:
I have sprayed gelcoat at the dock using a HVLP touchup gun and a small compressor below. The HVLP has virtually no overspray. I put plastic on the lifelines to protect against mis-aiming. I had no troubles with the Marina here. You might or might not have troubles where you are. Brush on is never as satisfactory as spray on unless the spray job is botched. Do not use AWLGRIP if brushing.
I talked to the painter today. He's using Awlgrip, which he says is his choice for roll and tip. He's painting the bulwarks brush only, and they look perfect. His price range for the deck and cockpit, including all nonskid and all prep: Between 2k and 3K.
It really is looking spectacular. I have the painter's name for any Angelinos who want it.
That's great Christian. I tried rolling and tipping with poor results. I sprayed with spectacular results. My recommendation would be to leave the rolling and tipping of AWLGRIP to a really good pro. This painting is really a high level skill.
Oh! I should add that I'm a pretty good painter having sprayed several classic cars as well as everyday cars. If I were a novice, I would stay away from AWLGRIP. It is a difficult paint to apply and the results can be disasterous. The beauty of AWLGRIP is the paint is long lasting, flexible and gorgeous.
You bet, I've never had the guts to try it. My transom was painted by a well liked dockside freelancer. Dew (I think) turned it bad, he had to sand it off and start over. Total cost: $300 flat. Anyhow, 2K+ plus to prep and paint an entire 38-foot deck seems to me like a real bargain for what this customer is getting.
Tech note: as I watched the painter refill his can he was adding "Awlgrip Reducer."
AWLGRIP is a 3 part paint. The base, the catalyst and the reducer. There are different reducers based on temperature and humidity. It gets kind of complicated. Be sure to check out the bonifieds of anyone you are thinking of using. Look at previous jobs.
First coat on the nonskid. The painter's using a 3" brush, no roller, working very small areas. Beside him are two paint pots. When one side is finished he sprinkles on some sort of non-skid product, using fingers. I'd like to grill him further on technique, but I have sorta worn out my welcome already.