-
Untitled Document Join us on November 22nd, 7pm EDT
for the CBEC Virtual Meeting
Adventures & Follies
All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the people you've met online!
See the link below for login credentials and join us!
(dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)
sveinutne
Member III
The water separator was not working as it should. Every time the engine had been resting for more then 10 min, I had to push the pump or prime pump to get diesel all the way to the diesel pump. If not the engine would not start, or I would have to crank the engine for more then 5 sec.</SPAN></SPAN>
On Saturday I took her out into the fjord for the first time, and after 15 min the engine stopped. I think the reason was air in the diesel system. When the engine stopped for the second time I have had enough, and found I temporary solution to the problem until I find a way to fix or replace the water separator. The solution was very simple. I took a plastic bottle and cut it so it would fit over the bottom half of the water separator, and filled it with water, so water was standing higher then the bottom screw where the air was bobbling in. Some tape was holding the plastic cup in place and I could not see any more air bobbles or water going in or out of the separator.</SPAN></SPAN>
The engine was running smooth after that and could stand for a long time and start with only 1 sec of cranking the starter. So I have found the problem, and a temporary fix, but I will not recommend this water separator.</SPAN></SPAN>
http://www.svb24.com/index.php?sid=e547518125ca51ddb25c4b1b9b953749&cl=details&cnid=14167&anid=687</SPAN></SPAN>
<TBODY>
</TBODY>
On Saturday I took her out into the fjord for the first time, and after 15 min the engine stopped. I think the reason was air in the diesel system. When the engine stopped for the second time I have had enough, and found I temporary solution to the problem until I find a way to fix or replace the water separator. The solution was very simple. I took a plastic bottle and cut it so it would fit over the bottom half of the water separator, and filled it with water, so water was standing higher then the bottom screw where the air was bobbling in. Some tape was holding the plastic cup in place and I could not see any more air bobbles or water going in or out of the separator.</SPAN></SPAN>
The engine was running smooth after that and could stand for a long time and start with only 1 sec of cranking the starter. So I have found the problem, and a temporary fix, but I will not recommend this water separator.</SPAN></SPAN>
http://www.svb24.com/index.php?sid=e547518125ca51ddb25c4b1b9b953749&cl=details&cnid=14167&anid=687</SPAN></SPAN>
| 66402 </SPAN> | Water Separator / 0,2 l / 100 l/h</SPAN> | | | | | 59,90 €</SPAN>[SUP]*</SPAN>[/SUP] |
<TBODY>
</TBODY>
To replace or repair the water separator?
Svein, The design of the water separator/filters are not rocket science. Are repair parts available for them and would it make sense to simply replace the offending part? At worst, you could buy a new one and rebuild the old one as a spare should such a thing like this ever happen again. You can't have too many spare parts. In addition, it is one less thing to go into a land fill. Congratulations on your first venture away from the shore. Glyn
Svein, The design of the water separator/filters are not rocket science. Are repair parts available for them and would it make sense to simply replace the offending part? At worst, you could buy a new one and rebuild the old one as a spare should such a thing like this ever happen again. You can't have too many spare parts. In addition, it is one less thing to go into a land fill. Congratulations on your first venture away from the shore. Glyn
sveinutne
Member III
Glyn,</SPAN>
I will call SVB and tell them about my problem. I guess they will send me a new glass as replacement and send with my next order.</SPAN>
The Ericson 41 was very easy to turn when going forward, but in reverse it takes some time to move her around. But now I have taken her in and out several times with no problem, so that is a good start.</SPAN>
I will call SVB and tell them about my problem. I guess they will send me a new glass as replacement and send with my next order.</SPAN>
The Ericson 41 was very easy to turn when going forward, but in reverse it takes some time to move her around. But now I have taken her in and out several times with no problem, so that is a good start.</SPAN>
Greg Ross
Not the newest member
Amazing the number of pleasure craft around Oslo
Svein,
I was in Oslo for several days last week and had one short road trip out past Drammen, I was was absolutely amazed at the number of pleasure craft and sailboats in particular right around Oslo.
I did a Google search for "Oslo, Norway" just now and clicked on the Google Map option. Zooming in on that the fijord at Oslo and then panning around the shorline, there are literally dozens of Marinas, there must be more sailors per capita in Norway then anywhere else in the World-just a guess!.
And By-the-Way, laying a swatch of oil absorbant material in the bilge is smart to avoid those overboard Oops'.
Svein,
I just looked back at the image(s) you'd posted including the seacock you had leaking. That's a good quality flanged (bronze) tapered barrel valve, probably Wilcox-Crittenden. All it needs is to be disassembled, a rub to remove any build-up of deposits, lapped, then lubed with waterproof grease before re-assembly. The nut on the one end is for fine adjustment so the barrrel just turns with nominal leverage. These are very reliable valves. Re-lapped periodically they should be good for a couple of lifetimes.
Svein,
I was in Oslo for several days last week and had one short road trip out past Drammen, I was was absolutely amazed at the number of pleasure craft and sailboats in particular right around Oslo.
I did a Google search for "Oslo, Norway" just now and clicked on the Google Map option. Zooming in on that the fijord at Oslo and then panning around the shorline, there are literally dozens of Marinas, there must be more sailors per capita in Norway then anywhere else in the World-just a guess!.
And By-the-Way, laying a swatch of oil absorbant material in the bilge is smart to avoid those overboard Oops'.
Svein,
I just looked back at the image(s) you'd posted including the seacock you had leaking. That's a good quality flanged (bronze) tapered barrel valve, probably Wilcox-Crittenden. All it needs is to be disassembled, a rub to remove any build-up of deposits, lapped, then lubed with waterproof grease before re-assembly. The nut on the one end is for fine adjustment so the barrrel just turns with nominal leverage. These are very reliable valves. Re-lapped periodically they should be good for a couple of lifetimes.
Last edited:
sveinutne
Member III
Greg Ross,</SPAN></SPAN>
Yes, Norway has maybe the longest coastline per capita too, so the sea has been a withal part of living in Norway for thousands of years. Thanks for many good advice. I will try to find parts that will fit the Wilcox-Crittender and fix it next time she is on land.</SPAN></SPAN>
Yes, Norway has maybe the longest coastline per capita too, so the sea has been a withal part of living in Norway for thousands of years. Thanks for many good advice. I will try to find parts that will fit the Wilcox-Crittender and fix it next time she is on land.</SPAN></SPAN>
sveinutne
Member III
Forum vs. Blogs
I just read the Forum vs. Blogs by Sean Engle, and I think it might be more correct of me to post in the Blogs section instead of the Forum. So when I figure out how to use the Blog, I will try to migrate.</SPAN></SPAN>
The Ericson is flouting and things are slowly getting in place bits my bits. Now I want nice sailing pictures, but without the mast that will have to wait.</SPAN></SPAN>
I just read the Forum vs. Blogs by Sean Engle, and I think it might be more correct of me to post in the Blogs section instead of the Forum. So when I figure out how to use the Blog, I will try to migrate.</SPAN></SPAN>
The Ericson is flouting and things are slowly getting in place bits my bits. Now I want nice sailing pictures, but without the mast that will have to wait.</SPAN></SPAN>
sveinutne
Member III
Propeller rotation problems.
I have the hydraulic motor connected to the transmission that is connected to the propeller shaft in the other end. On the first try the transmission looked to work fine and I could go in revers and forward. After some closer inspection and call to the seller of this transmission I was told it had 2:1 in forward and 3:1 in reverse. Now I could see the propeller was turning faster in reverse than in forward at the same engine rpm.</SPAN></SPAN>
After some phone call to the seller he agreed that the problem should be solved by turning the hydraulic motor the other way. In theory it sound very easy, but in real life it is two long evenings of work. So I did that and started the engine yesterday, but my disappointment was hard to hide when the propeller did not move in any direction. </SPAN></SPAN>
In the previous setup the hydraulic motor was turning the same way as the engine, but in the new setup it was turning the other way. It must be some mechanism inside the transmission that only let the gear engages when turning the way the engine is supposes to turn. </SPAN></SPAN>
This morning I called the seller again, and now he agree with my thoughts and say the transmission only works with input power turning the same way the engine is turning. So I will need to put the hydraulic back to what it was the first time and buy a new propeller that is built for turning the other way.</SPAN></SPAN>
So maybe the seller is right, but I do not trust him 100%. Sometimes I think he is just guessing, but maybe he is right and US props turn opposite of European props.</SPAN></SPAN>
I have the hydraulic motor connected to the transmission that is connected to the propeller shaft in the other end. On the first try the transmission looked to work fine and I could go in revers and forward. After some closer inspection and call to the seller of this transmission I was told it had 2:1 in forward and 3:1 in reverse. Now I could see the propeller was turning faster in reverse than in forward at the same engine rpm.</SPAN></SPAN>
After some phone call to the seller he agreed that the problem should be solved by turning the hydraulic motor the other way. In theory it sound very easy, but in real life it is two long evenings of work. So I did that and started the engine yesterday, but my disappointment was hard to hide when the propeller did not move in any direction. </SPAN></SPAN>
In the previous setup the hydraulic motor was turning the same way as the engine, but in the new setup it was turning the other way. It must be some mechanism inside the transmission that only let the gear engages when turning the way the engine is supposes to turn. </SPAN></SPAN>
This morning I called the seller again, and now he agree with my thoughts and say the transmission only works with input power turning the same way the engine is turning. So I will need to put the hydraulic back to what it was the first time and buy a new propeller that is built for turning the other way.</SPAN></SPAN>
So maybe the seller is right, but I do not trust him 100%. Sometimes I think he is just guessing, but maybe he is right and US props turn opposite of European props.</SPAN></SPAN>
Greg Ross
Not the newest member
Right hand/ Left Hand Drive!
Svein,
I've been puzzling over this now for a couple of days.
From what I could see of the several images you posted a month or so ago, your boat originally had a v-drive set-up, is that right?
From very early on I recall you talking about the hit you would be taking with VAT on new a Engine, etc. I guess I am just assuming you went with all new gear, transmission, etc. THe transmission data/ label should tell you whether it's a right hand or left hand rotation . Right hand rotation will be clockwise when viewed from aft looking forward.
I don't believe there's any distinction with left vs right hand rotation between the two continents, I have a sense right hand is perhaps more common. What you do have to watch out for, because I believe this is distinctive, in the taper used on prop shafts. I believe there's a difference between Europe and North America concerning the taper angle used as standard. If your shaft and prop came from America then source your replacement here.
Svein,
I've been puzzling over this now for a couple of days.
From what I could see of the several images you posted a month or so ago, your boat originally had a v-drive set-up, is that right?
From very early on I recall you talking about the hit you would be taking with VAT on new a Engine, etc. I guess I am just assuming you went with all new gear, transmission, etc. THe transmission data/ label should tell you whether it's a right hand or left hand rotation . Right hand rotation will be clockwise when viewed from aft looking forward.
I don't believe there's any distinction with left vs right hand rotation between the two continents, I have a sense right hand is perhaps more common. What you do have to watch out for, because I believe this is distinctive, in the taper used on prop shafts. I believe there's a difference between Europe and North America concerning the taper angle used as standard. If your shaft and prop came from America then source your replacement here.
sveinutne
Member III
Greg</SPAN>
Thank you for your advice. I think I will take good time to think about this prop replacement, so I get it right. I was hoping to make some test run with the boat and find out what rpm the engine was vibration free at etc. But now I just have to calculate transferred power and propeller rpm to find a new propeller with the right twist. I guess the max speed will be about 7 kts. and cruses between 5 and 6 kts.</SPAN>
Maybe it is enough information for a propeller expert to get data like this. At 1200 prm on the propeller should give 7 kts boat speed and 25 kW transferred power on the propeller shaft.</SPAN>
Thank you for your advice. I think I will take good time to think about this prop replacement, so I get it right. I was hoping to make some test run with the boat and find out what rpm the engine was vibration free at etc. But now I just have to calculate transferred power and propeller rpm to find a new propeller with the right twist. I guess the max speed will be about 7 kts. and cruses between 5 and 6 kts.</SPAN>
Maybe it is enough information for a propeller expert to get data like this. At 1200 prm on the propeller should give 7 kts boat speed and 25 kW transferred power on the propeller shaft.</SPAN>
Greg Ross
Not the newest member
Sizing a Prop
Svein,
When repowering I happened to have the advantage of an acquaintance who built props. His business was designing, casting, finishing props for commercial vessels.
I gave him the detail of the existing performance from the previous engine/ prop combination (2GM20F with 2.62 : 1 gear reduction) the info on the new engine (3HM35F 2.04 : 1 reduction) he sized the wheel and it worked right out of the gate.
Svein,
When repowering I happened to have the advantage of an acquaintance who built props. His business was designing, casting, finishing props for commercial vessels.
I gave him the detail of the existing performance from the previous engine/ prop combination (2GM20F with 2.62 : 1 gear reduction) the info on the new engine (3HM35F 2.04 : 1 reduction) he sized the wheel and it worked right out of the gate.
Last edited:
sveinutne
Member III
It will be a little different with my system, when I do not know the losses the hydraulic will have etc. So I go from data other Ericson 41 owners have posted. One got a top speed of 7.2 knots with a 50 hp system. I got 58 hp, but expect to lose 25 % in the hydraulic, so if I get 40 hp out I will be pleased. So my top speed might be less then 7 kts. But if the top speed is 7 or 6.5 kts should not make much different on the design of the propeller I hope. My plan is to take her out of the water in May 2012 and change the propeller and the gaskets on the three remaining valves. So I have time to think twice about the propeller. </SPAN></SPAN>
Greg Ross
Not the newest member
THruhull Valves
Svein,
A couple of weeks ago we exchanged notes about a Wilcox Crittenden Seacock which is what I believe you had weeping.
Below image shows the entire guts of your seacock.
Give all the surfaces a good cleaning inside and out. Apply some valve lapping compound to the barrel and turn it by hand in the valve body to refinish the fit. Reclean, apply waterproof grease and reassemble. Fit the washer and big nut, tighten it until the valve barrel will just turn by hand with the lever handle, fit and torque the jam nut. That's it, no parts to replace. Yer done!
No, you'd probably better service the rest of them while you've got the boat out of the water next May.
Svein,
A couple of weeks ago we exchanged notes about a Wilcox Crittenden Seacock which is what I believe you had weeping.
Below image shows the entire guts of your seacock.
Give all the surfaces a good cleaning inside and out. Apply some valve lapping compound to the barrel and turn it by hand in the valve body to refinish the fit. Reclean, apply waterproof grease and reassemble. Fit the washer and big nut, tighten it until the valve barrel will just turn by hand with the lever handle, fit and torque the jam nut. That's it, no parts to replace. Yer done!
No, you'd probably better service the rest of them while you've got the boat out of the water next May.
Attachments
-
000_0289.jpg
sveinutne
Member III
Heating the cabin from warm watertank
Winter is soon coming to Norway and the sailing season is over for almost all. I think I was the only sailboat out on the fjord last Sunday, but I was doing a test drive of my heating system. The previous Sunday I made a test run and the gearbox was running a little hot, and so was the hydraulic fluid. This was no surprise because I had not put in the water cooling on the gearbox and only used two of the four tubes I made for cooling the hydraulic oil. So in stead of sending the warm water into the fjord I decided to circulate the water in the water tank that is located below the saloon floor thru the two unused cooling tubing's in the hydraulic tank and true the gearbox. The result was a nice temperature on the gearbox and the hydraulic, and the water in the water tank heated up from 10 till 25 degrees.</SPAN></SPAN>
I only used 50 liter of water in the water tank and only run for 30 min, but I am not sure how much water it can take, but with more water it will take longer time to heat up, but on the other hand it will keep the heat for a longer time if one would like to spend the night in the boat. So now I should know in advance how long I would run the engine and then adjust the water lever accordingly to get the optimum temperature in the water tank for heating the cabin at night. I did not know sailing was this difficult
</SPAN></SPAN>
PS.
With 200 liter at 40 degrees, the night might be warm ... so much to test...
Winter is soon coming to Norway and the sailing season is over for almost all. I think I was the only sailboat out on the fjord last Sunday, but I was doing a test drive of my heating system. The previous Sunday I made a test run and the gearbox was running a little hot, and so was the hydraulic fluid. This was no surprise because I had not put in the water cooling on the gearbox and only used two of the four tubes I made for cooling the hydraulic oil. So in stead of sending the warm water into the fjord I decided to circulate the water in the water tank that is located below the saloon floor thru the two unused cooling tubing's in the hydraulic tank and true the gearbox. The result was a nice temperature on the gearbox and the hydraulic, and the water in the water tank heated up from 10 till 25 degrees.</SPAN></SPAN>
I only used 50 liter of water in the water tank and only run for 30 min, but I am not sure how much water it can take, but with more water it will take longer time to heat up, but on the other hand it will keep the heat for a longer time if one would like to spend the night in the boat. So now I should know in advance how long I would run the engine and then adjust the water lever accordingly to get the optimum temperature in the water tank for heating the cabin at night. I did not know sailing was this difficult
</SPAN></SPAN>PS.
With 200 liter at 40 degrees, the night might be warm ... so much to test...
Last edited:
Update?
Hey Svein -
We've not heard anything from you in some time - what's the status of the boat? Are you still in water - or are you pulled out for the winter?
//sse
Hey Svein -
We've not heard anything from you in some time - what's the status of the boat? Are you still in water - or are you pulled out for the winter?
//sse
sveinutne
Member III
Hi Sean,
Thank you for your concern. The boat is still in the water, but it is minus 12 degrees Celsius in the air and the water is starting to freeze in some calm places in the marina. I have some heating on in the boat, so inside the boat it is close to zero.
In a month the temperature will be warmer, and then I plan to start some work inside the boat.
Regards
Svein
Thank you for your concern. The boat is still in the water, but it is minus 12 degrees Celsius in the air and the water is starting to freeze in some calm places in the marina. I have some heating on in the boat, so inside the boat it is close to zero.
In a month the temperature will be warmer, and then I plan to start some work inside the boat.
Regards
Svein
