Filling Holes in the spars

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
Over the 40 year lifespan of our boat, there has been a lot of hardware added, removed, or relocated which leads to holes that need to be filled. The boom is a good example. Multiple lazy jack systems, cleats no longer needed, and the reefing tracks we’re removing, all adding up to over 30 holes in our boom. Here’s how I have been filling them so far:

After removing the hardware, I sanded the spots that were corrode which happened to be at every fastener location.

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Then I drilled and tapped a 5/16” hole. I chose 5/16 because that’s the size fastener used on the reefing track and they accounted for most of the holes. I cleaned each hole with acetone and a wire brush / pipe cleaner thing.

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I want to avoid future corrosion due to dissimilar metals, so I purchased some threaded 5/16” 6061 aluminum rod that I cut up into small pieces making sure to clean up the threads by backing a nut past the cut point.

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I pre inserted each filler piece to double check the threads then mixed up some JB Weld epoxy. Using a Q-tip, I applied the epoxy to the threaded hole and the filler piece and screwed each one in, so they sat proud of the inside service by apx. 1 thread.

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After the epoxy cured, I ground off the filler pieces and sanded them smooth with the rest of the boom.

I don’t think the mast has as many holes to fill, but there are still quite a few. I was finally able to find 6061 screws which will save time by not requiring cutting up the threaded rod.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Long before we bought our boat, several small (about 3/16) holes near the slot had been filled flush with what appears to be gray epoxy filler. Smooth and it blends in with the anodized look. I wonder what a rigger might recommend?
Gotta say, I had never thought of the alum. threaded rod idea. Way cool!
 

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
Welding was one idea, but I have heard, and most of the riggers I've talked to agree, welding the aluminum would create week points adjacent to the welds. I am planning on asking the shop I'm working with to weld some of the holes on the top plate of the mast head. I don't think it would matter at that location and I would like to route some of those cables through the side of the mast and use drip loops.

The aluminum threaded rod is essentially the same idea as filling the holes with epoxy filler, I'm just using less filler.
 

ConchyDug

Member III
Why not aluminum pull rivets? It's pretty common on aircraft to install "placeholder rivets". This happens usually after an older system is removed and all the structure looks like swiss cheese, so a solid rivet is usually bucked in. For the little hole that's left in the pull rivet you could dab some sealant on it.
 

Nick J

Contributing Partner
Moderator
Blogs Author
Good idea. I found a few spots where they did that before. My only concern is how secure the rivet is over time. A few of the old rivets had fallen out but most we're still in place. Who knows, I may have the same problem with my fix over time.
 

gabriel

Live free or die hard
TIG welding by a qualified operator is THE second best (after a new boom =) ), but I like this method as it seems like it can be done at one’s own pace, with the boom in place, and with mostly ordinary tools. Thanks for sharing.
 

HerbertFriedman

Sustaining Member
I have filled holes in the mast and boom using aluminum rivets over many years, no problems. I recently used stainless steel rivets to re attach the gooseneck, rather than aluminum for strength. Four out of the 8 screws were stripped, used plenty of TefGel. I too was worried about corrosion from dissimilar metals but the yard assured me that TelGel would prevent that. A friend has a mast supplied by Ballanger in SanJose and he secured the gooseneck with SS rivets many years ago, and no corrosion.
 
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