Agreed
Folding better than fixed, feathering even better, but pricey.
A trick for those with folders and are having trouble with it closing or keeping it closed:
First, at the dock, with the tranny in neutral, rotate the shaft coupling until you hear a blade fall (clunck), then rotate back 90 degrees, and place a piece of tape or use marker pen so you have a visual reference (mark on top of the shaft or coupling) for when the prop is aligned with the blades straight back, and it is not possible for a blade to drop open. Actually the best thing is to do this while someone is diving on the bottom-ask that person to rotate the shaft to this position, then mark it..
When going sailing, try and shut the engine down while you are at or above 5 knots, and you have your "prop person" standing by close to the shaft. When the engine stops, put the tranny in reverse for a second to stop the rotation, then back into neutral. Call out "NEUTRAL" to your prop person, and on this command they just spin the shaft so the mark is on top. They will then call out "SET", att which point you put the tranny back into reverse.
The higher beginning speed has ensured the blades will fold straight back, and the vertical alignment and engaging reverse means it will not spin while you are sailing-no matter what the speed, and blades cannot drop down and open-until you restart the engine.
For 2 blade fixed drivers, you can help things a lot by marking the shaft when the prop is vertical-you will need to do this in the yard or with a diver-and when you shut down, stop the prop and go back into neutral, you can spin the shaft to the vertical position-and then hit reverse so it is locked in this position and maximize your sailing performance considerably over leaving the prop in whatever position it stops in....
Of course, feathering props solve all of this, but for those not ready for that cost, these steps will help your sailing performance noticably.
Cheers,
S