Fuel tank inspection hole 32-200 (does the tank have baffles?)

[BlueCanoe]

I want to add a fuel tank inspection and cleaning holes as I have been fighting clogged fuel filters since I got the boat. So the question is does the tank have baffles ?

I’m following Christians video here

I can see that Christian’s tank has baffles. But this is obviously a smaller 22 gallon tank. If it has baffles they aren’t obvious from looking at the top of the tank.

 

[peaman]

My 1987 32-3 has a 20 gallon tank with one baffle across the tank at about midway along its length. If you can expose the entire top of the tank, you should be able to find the baffle location by tapping or pressing on the top. You might also see a few marks on the tank top: discolorations or rougher texture, indicating where the baffle is welded to the tank top. In my tank, the baffle is clear of the tank bottom by 3/4" or so. Also, if you remove the fuel level indicator or sensor, you can probably fit a dental mirror through the hole to check further.

 

[JSM]

Our 34-2 has a 27 gallon tank with one baffle down the center. I had it out two years ago to be cleaned the shop had to cut two holes in the top to get the job done,

 

[BlueCanoe]

Well no baffles in the 22 gallon tank of a 1990 32-200. I am however doubting that the actual capacity is 22 gallons. Seemed pretty full and I only got 13 gallons out. It certainly didn’t seem like there was room for another 9 gallons.

One relatively centered 6.25” is enough to get to the entire tank. Not done cleaning by a long shot but in 2 minutes I got at least 1/2 gallon of sediment out of the tank.

The issue I have been having is clogged pump pre filters. But in addition to this I think I will replace the pre filter with a much larger filter. Maybe just a second racor filter / water separator.

 

[JSM]

The issue I have been having is clogged pump pre filters.

Until you get the gunk out of your tank you will continue to have this problem and it will bite you in the ass at the worst possible time
( ask me how I know ) .
If at all possible remove the tank and take it to a shop that specializes in diesel tanks , this is a common problem with semi trucks.
Luckily I was able to remove the tank in our 34-2 and take it to a shop that cut two holes in the tank, cleaned it and welded in new patches. Had it back the same day for $250.
PS
I now religiously ad a biocide whenever I refuel.

 

[BlueCanoe]

Until you get the gunk out of your tank you will continue to have this problem and it will bite you in the ass at the worst possible time
( ask me how I know ) .
If at all possible remove the tank and take it to a shop that specializes in diesel tanks , this is a common problem with semi trucks.
Luckily I was able to remove the tank in our 34-2 and take it to a shop that cut two holes in the tank, cleaned it and welded in new patches. Had it back the same day for $250.
PS
I now religiously ad a biocide whenever I refuel.

As mentioned above I already cut (technically drilled) a 6.25” hole in the tank and the tank is small enough that I can reach every corner of the tank. My Plan is to scoop out as much as possibly by hand and then scrub the tank with purple power using battery powered vibrating sander with a scotch bright pad. If I can’t get the tank completely clean I will pull it out and have it steam cleaned by a local shop that does diesel tanks.

 

[JSM]

As mentioned above I already cut (technically drilled) a 6.25” hole in the tank and the tank is small enough that I can reach every corner of the tank.

Sloppy reading on my part. Sounds like you are definitely on the right track !

 

[Dave G.]

As mentioned above I already cut (technically drilled) a 6.25” hole in the tank and the tank is small enough that I can reach every corner of the tank. My Plan is to scoop out as much as possibly by hand and then scrub the tank with purple power using battery powered vibrating sander with a scotch bright pad. If I can’t get the tank completely clean I will pull it out and have it steam cleaned by a local shop that does diesel tanks.

Inspect the lowest part(under the pick up tube generally) of tank for corrosion closely. It will appear to be tiny little bumps and craters where the sediment was laying. I would not encourage sanding the tank especially with a power sander. Tanks are thin to begin with and the bottom of yours is even thinner by this time. A thorough cleaning with mineral spirits or like will suffice IMHO.

 

[BlueCanoe]

Inspect the lowest part(under the pick up tube generally) of tank for corrosion closely. It will appear to be tiny little bumps and craters where the sediment was laying. I would not encourage sanding the tank especially with a power sander. Tanks are thin to begin with and the bottom of yours is even thinner by this time. A thorough cleaning with mineral spirits or like will suffice IMHO.

You were dead on correct here. An electric pressure washer was able pierce the tank in this location. I welded the tank up and did put in some tank sealer but I do not think I will
Use the tank after all . I have a 30 gallon plastic fuel tank that just fits in the lazarette taking up about half the space that was brand new but came with another boat several years ago.

 

[Loren Beach]

30 gallon plastic fuel tank

Please sure that the "plastic" compound in that tank is specified for diesel. This concerns both safety and insurability. You are probably just fine, but I know that over the years molded fuel tanks have changed due to "modern" fuels having additives that would cause problems with earlier tanks.

 

[Dave G.]

You were dead on correct here. An electric pressure washer was able pierce the tank in this location. I welded the tank up and did put in some tank sealer but I do not think I will
Use the tank after all . I have a 30 gallon plastic fuel tank that just fits in the lazarette taking up about half the space that was brand new but came with another boat several years ago.

Oh no ! sorry to hear that. Corrosion in mine got so bad it started leaking. I successfully repaired the bottom of the tank with epoxy and fiberglass. Cleaned well, roughed up the aluminum with sand paper, then put a couple of layers of fiberglass and epoxy. I used West systems epoxy and they were helpful on which product to use and how. So if you want to keep your tank and fix it without removing this is a definite possibility especially since I think you already have access port(s) cut in.

 

[BlueCanoe]

Please sure that the "plastic" compound in that tank is specified for diesel. This concerns both safety and insurability. You are probably just fine, but I know that over the years molded fuel tanks have changed due to "modern" fuels having additives that would cause problems with earlier tanks.

The label says for gas and diesel as does the specifications. It’s this tank actually https://www.westmarine.com/moeller-...erm=4576992036547433&utm_content=Fuel Systems

 

[BlueCanoe]

Oh no ! sorry to hear that. Corrosion in mine got so bad it started leaking. I successfully repaired the bottom of the tank with epoxy and fiberglass. Cleaned well, roughed up the aluminum with sand paper, then put a couple of layers of fiberglass and epoxy. I used West systems epoxy and they were helpful on which product to use and how. So if you want to keep your tank and fix it without removing this is a definite possibility especially since I think you already have access port(s) cut in.

I pulled the tank out after the hole was blasted through with the pressure washer. I think the repairs I made would hold fine. I welded (or a guess technical brazed) a piece of aluminum over the most affected area fully covering the hole and then applied a sealent made for diesel and gas tanks to the inside of the entire tank. There was some additional visible pitting that the sealant filled. I might pressure test the tank.