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Genoa Halyard Shackles???

kiwisailor

Member III
Blogs Author
So I've got a new 1996 Pacific Seacraft E38 and I'm in the process of replacing the running rigging and I've come across a few odd things that I have questions about.

My boats genoa halyard has a snap shackle, where my old boat used just an eye splice halyard with a Wichard captive pin D shackle. What type of shackle is everyone using from the genoa halyard to attach to the genoa furler head attachment?

Also I'm curious how folks have their topping lift setup on there E38? Previously I had a fixed masthead attachment that came back to the boom end sheave and then forward boom sheave to the deck and then back to the cockpit. My new boat appears to have the option for the fixed attachment at the boom end then run up to the mast head sheave and back down the mast to the deck and then back to cockpit.
 
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bsangs

E35-3 - New Jersey
So I've got a new 1996 Pacific Seacraft E38 and I'm in the process of replacing the running rigging and I've come across a few odd things that I have questions about.

My boats genoa halyard has a snap shackle, where my old boat used just an eye splice halyard with a Wichard captive pin D shackle. What type of shackle is everyone using from the genoa halyard to attach to the genoa furler head attachment?
My genoa halyard is attached to the top of the furler with a snap shackle. The genoa itself attaches to the furler via a connected shackle that's on the furler head.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
We use a long D shackle, with a screw pin. That way I can tighten it the last gnat's eyelash of a turn with my pliers. Halyard attached with a "halyard knot".
The sail is attached with the twist shackle with screw pin that Harken supplied with the furler. (Unless I supplied it; it's been a while.)
 

ConchyDug

Member III
I have a spliced genoa halyard with the shortest clevis style shackle I could find straight to the furler swivel. Takes up less space than a snap shackle if you want max sail luff dimensions.

My topping lift is rigged to the masthead and back to the boom end where I have a snap shackle to release it and pull it forward to a shroud where I clip it to a lanyard to prevent mainsail leech chafe after it's hoisted. When the topping lift is rigged the adjustment line is ran fwd to a boom sheave and back to a horn cleat on the boom. A future upgrade I'd like is to replace the stranded wire with dyneema to reduce chafe.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A future upgrade I'd like is to replace the stranded wire with dyneema to reduce chafe.
Not only to reduce chafe, which is a good thing, but to reduce weight aloft. When I removed all four of our OEM wire/to/rope halyards the weight was amazing compared to the equal length coils of new 5/16 T-900, that I picked up with my other hand.
I must have removed 25# or more from way up in the air. That's like adding some lead to the bottom of our keel, six feet below the waterline. That old wire, some sections with vintage meat hooks, was heavy as heck.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A snap shackle is for quick release. A D-shackle, captive, is more secure. Both are OK, but having had a snap shackle flog open above the spreaders, I am now a convert to the D style for all halyards..

My Ericson model topping lift is fixed at masthead, and the internals exit at mid-boom for control. I think you could rig topping lift cockpit control through a Kenyon gooseneck by using the gooseneck outhaul sheave, and switching the outhaul to the mid-boom cleat.

But for a topping lift led back, Mike's alternative is probably easier. If needed--I rarely change the setting on my topping lift.
 
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