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Marine Head and Hoses, all Models [Master Thread]

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
As Loren said elsewhere, the typical job for a stock head is pretty much the same for most models. Cramped and awkward and smelly.

The first test is a wipe with a damp finger on the hoses. If the finger smells, the hoses are permeated and have to go. Then it's a matter of confirming that the 40-year-old plastic holding tank isn't leaking, and if it is...yeah, that's gonna be fun. And the tank air vent hose is equally important. As are the many possible in-line valves, which if frozen make pump-out stations a hassle. When the head area is later sterilized with household cleaner, all smell should be actually, provably, gone. So the goal is real, and worth the work. Then empty the holding tank soon after using it, it isn't designed to be Fort Knox for excrement.

Nobody in his right mind uses perfumed chemicals in holding tanks anymore, as they fill the boat with the atmosphere of a trench on the Western Front in 1916. Odorlos or similar is the current vogue. But pump it out, no microbe is perfect.


Although Erik (Filkee) is in fresh water, boats in some lake environments also profit from the simple conversion to freshwater flush. And then there is the question of a vented loop, which keeps the toilet from overflowing when heeled (or just close the seacock).


Here are some blogs: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/categories/sanitation-systems.44/ , including



 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If a dedicated diaphragm pump (probably a Whale brand) is installed to pump waste overboard, it may well be worn out by now.

The consensus seems to be replace, but some are worth rebuilding.

If you don't mind a bit of wiring, a macerator is the ticket for those of us who empty the holding tank beyond the three-mile limit.

 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
Is there a thread that is 32-3 specific? Its hose time for me.
I replaced all of my hoses two years ago, and along with a unique fresh-water flush solution, all prior issues (except for small space) are resolved. Before ripping out hoses, I suggest carefully documenting how everything is installed, like which hose is above or below, or left or right of another. I didn't do that, and so had to spend some extra time figuring out the best routing of hoses to minimize low spots.

One weak point in the arrangement of tank and hoses is that both waste-in and waste-out hoses have threaded connections at the bottom of the tank. Everything is plastic, so there is a limit to how much you can tighten those fittings. Combined with the long and stiff hoses needed, it is easy to loosen the threaded connections during installation, with the possible result of an inaccessible leak. In order to mitigate that, I put an elbow fitting in each of those hoses about 24" or 30" up from the bottom. Originally those hoses ran unbroken to their respective connections. The hoses pass through an opening in the bulkhead between V berth and head. I used a coarse wood rasp to slightly enlarge, and shape the bulkhead to provide an easier path for the hoses. Also, after everything had been removed from the head cabinet, I painted everything I could reach with Interlux Brightside.

The Whale Gusher manual pump had some minor corrosion near the internal valves, so I cleaned, primed, and painted those areas before rebuilding the pump.

Originally the seat on my fixture was about 1/2" from the salon bulkhead, which seemed wrong to me. I found that by simply moving the head pump to the opposite (aft) side, the head would be centered in the available space, which to me feels much more "normal" (see pictures in link above).
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Photos of plumbing of Typical E381 with macerator:

 
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