Hidden spaces...

[toddster]

Well, I cut the 8" diameter circles (more or less) with the semi-circular blade pictured in post #21. I did a 4" circle too, though I may have used the 1" wide straight blade. Just cut kind of at an angle with a corner of the blade and keep moving around the circle. (I don't know how I did it, I just did it.) Tighter radiuses than that, I dunno... maybe a dremel or jigsaw. Maybe I'd go with a little trim plunge router (Home Depot) that I have. They aren't as easy to control as the vibro-tool though.

 

[toddster]

Obviously, the flange of the deck plates conceal any small imperfections in my cutting technique. If you're not planning to frame your holes with anything, you might achieve a similar finish with something like rubber window molding with a U-shaped profile that would slip over the edge of the opening.

 

[Loren Beach]

Abrasion...

I have some rotary files, straight and tapered, for my 3/8 drill. They are great for chamfering around odd places to protect my hide when reaching in for stuff.
Rotary rasp, too, straight and ball shaped.

Cheap and useful parts of the tool kit.

Loren

 

[Randy Rutledge]

I have found rotary stones for the drill to work well on fiberglass and gel coat, they don't chatter or chip like a rotary file can.

 

[adam]

Polé Polé's bar now has hidden storage for mixers.

 

[Loren Beach]

Time for a thread bump, as newer owners check in bringing fresh ideas. Seems like.....

 

[Doug177]

Has anybody made any modifications to the area under the chart table? My 35-3 has a panel with two holes for rolled up charts. This is prime real estate on my boat. There are plenty of places for rolled up paper charts that are not in prime real estate territory. (If my chart plotter doesn't work or batteries are low) I was thinking of changing the "holy" facing with a drawer facing and building a shallow drawer constructed just like the others. Has anybody tried this and run into any issues that I should be aware of? I hope this thread bump works Loren.

 

[Nick J]

I'm not adding a drawer, but I am utilizing the space behind the drawers for a Victron Inverter Charger. I removed the PVC tubes and will be installing mesh behind the two holes to repurpose them as ventilation. I also need to make new, shorter drawers with said or under mount slides. I started the project a few years ago and have been sailing without drawers ever since. It's taken me so long, I've shifted gears away from the current battery charger in favor of the Victron unit.

 

[peaman]

What you describe should be a really straightforward project. Your other drawers probably have bottom mounted slides, so that would probably be the best way to go with the right selection of hardware and other rough carpentry as needed.

My boat was built with a similar but different cabinet design which I repurposed for storing manuals, with the fabrication of a false bottom and back panel.

 

[Loren Beach]

I started the project a few years ago and have been sailing without drawers ever since.

Perhaps "TMI" ?

 

[Christian Williams]

It's his boat, gentlemen. We oughtn't be judgmental.

 

[Doug177]

I'm not adding a drawer, but I am utilizing the space behind the drawers for a Victron Inverter Charger. I removed the PVC tubes and will be installing mesh behind the two holes to repurpose them as ventilation. I also need to make new, shorter drawers with said or under mount slides. I started the project a few years ago and have been sailing without drawers ever since. It's taken me so long, I've shifted gears away from the current battery charger in favor of the Victron unit.

View attachment 54403

Nick, I have the same Pro Nautic 12-20P but it is under the Starboard cockpit seat and just a bit too far for the provided battery temperature sensor wire. I like yours being closer to the Battery as will be your Victron. At my age I am thinking of getting a lighter 300 AH Lithium House Battery to replace my 2 group 27 90 AH Lead Batteries (is lead getting heavier or what?) Then a small starter battery for the engine. I will look to see if there is a thread for upgrading batteries / chargers / inverters / electrical in our current age of increased electrical consumption. Nick, when I sail without drawers I always wear a VERY long sweatshirt and keep my eyes peeled for cleats and winches.

 

[Doug177]

What you describe should be a really straightforward project. Your other drawers probably have bottom mounted slides, so that would probably be the best way to go with the right selection of hardware and other rough carpentry as needed.

My boat was built with a similar but different cabinet design which I repurposed for storing manuals, with the fabrication of a false bottom and back panel.

Thanks Peaman. I took off the fake drawer face and it is straight-forward. The links you provided were quite helpful! I will measure up today.

 

[Nick J]

Nick, I have the same Pro Nautic 12-20P but it is under the Starboard cockpit seat and just a bit too far for the provided battery temperature sensor wire. I like yours being closer to the Battery as will be your Victron. At my age I am thinking of getting a lighter 300 AH Lithium House Battery to replace my 2 group 27 90 AH Lead Batteries (is lead getting heavier or what?) Then a small starter battery for the engine. I will look to see if there is a thread for upgrading batteries / chargers / inverters / electrical in our current age of increased electrical consumption. Nick, when I sail without drawers I always wear a VERY long sweatshirt and keep my eyes peeled for cleats and winches.

Doug,

That's almost exactly what I did (288ah LiFEPo4 for us). It has been a game changer. I no longer follow the family around turning off lights after them or worrying about power consumption. You can always have more, but this seems to be perfect for how we use the boat. We are loosing some space, but I think it's worth it to be ablet to shorten the main battery cables.

Old:



New:

 

[Loren Beach]

Thanks for the great photos. One thing puzzles me however -- years ago I had to put my "emergency" 12 volt AGM battery into a plastic tray to meet an ABYC requirement for insurance purposes. This was different (less stringent) than the covered container for our two 6 volt flooded GC batteries that comprise the House Bank.

 

[Nick J]

that's always a hot topic question. ABYC is a good general reference, but it is a recommendation. I'll leave interpretation of ABYC standards to other folks.

For me, AGM batteries do not vent liquid like flooded acid batteries, so I don't see the need to contain them in a box. Proper venting and tie down is important though. The box I purchased for this installation and most other boxes on the mark have very poor methods of securing the battery. I opted to not use the box and instead fabricate a custom tie down system. I have blocks around the battery preventing them from sliding and a bracket over the top made from a G10 strap and threaded rods on each side.

It passed the most recent insurance survey, so I'll call it good. Hopefully others who've gone this route have the same experience with their survey.

 

[Doug177]

Wow Nick! I love your new layout...very clean uncluttered looking! Great wire management! I too find I use a lot of G-10 for odds and ends that need great strength. This Marine Industry guy makes some good points about Battery Boxes and why to have them or not.