Hull oxydation

C. Trembanis

Member III
My 1974, 27 is light blue with heavy oxydation. Has any one ever used Mr. Clean Magic eraser with a light rub
too clear off the oxydation?? Perhaps it might be to abrasive. Any thoughts????
Thanks Chris
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Shiny Plastic

Having once made the error of buying an orange boat in '76, I sympathize with you. Colors, even the less-bright ones like your blue, are harder to maintain than any of the white ones.

That being said, as long as the gel coat has enough thickness remaining, you can (carefully) buff it out and then protect that surface with wax.
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117266
That's a link to one of the better hull shining threads that I know of.

I have seen boats the general age of yours that buffed out just fine. That light blue may well need more regular waxing than a white hull, but it is best from a financial standpoint to keep shining it up every year.

LPU will look really reat, but many of those high-$$$ paint jobs last under 10 or 15 years, and every little scratch will show up.
AFAIK once you sand it down and paint, you will not be returning to a get coat finish again without a massive input of time and money.

Good news is that, like us, you boat in the NW where the UV is not nearly as damaging as it is in Calif or Fla.

Regards,
Loren
 
Last edited:

exoduse35

Sustaining Member
Take a couple days and buff it out then keep it WAXED! What you see is neglected maintenance. (pay me now... or pay me later) usually the chalky build up is removed a little bit at a time as it is buffed and waxed a couple times a year and goes unnoticed except on the rag doing the job. The bad news is that it is now a bit of work, the good news is that after it is done it will only take a couple mornings a year to keep it looking great and the cost is negligible except for the sweat equity or lunch for the kids you enlist to help! Have fun, Edd
 

Andrew Means

Member III
My E27 is really needing some help along these lines as well - do you guys just get down in the dinghy, or actually haul it out for a serious job?
 

toddbrsd

Ex-Viking, Now Native American
It can be done in water

Andrew,

I buffed my yellow hull E-27 with 3M compound using an electric buffer last winter. It took basically 8 hours for each side. I was able to reach every part of the hull from the slip but had to back it in to get to the stern and below the stern. But boy was it a PITA, basically laying on my back and side most of the time. I purposely skipped the wet sanding part and that was a mistake. While it was an improvement and still got a lot of compliments on the boat after I was done with the buff and wax, I realized that wet sanding will be necessary to bring it back to near new, without any splotches. I will be at it again this winter. BTW, I was so exhausted from buffing that I hired a service to wax it for about $200, IIRC. :)
 

Andrew Means

Member III
Hmm, see, I got a quote from a guy to buff and wax it for $500, and if I did it, after buying a buffer and compound and the time spent... I'm wondering if I shouldn't take the dude up on it, especially since our hull is in an advanced state of needing-to-be-buffed... Thanks for the info!
 

toddbrsd

Ex-Viking, Now Native American
Well for that price, I would make sure I was there shortly after he started to make sure that just "buffing and wax" will meet your expectations. Like I said, mine will need to be wet sanded. But then again, I am no expert so it may have been "operator error"!
 

sv_naidia

Member II
Awlgrip??

Hi Everyone,

Lot's of great info on non Awlgrip paint posted here.... interesting to hear of all the different products and techniques. Does anyone have any info/experience on bringing Awlgrip finish back??? I do know Awlgrip sells their own brand of cleaner/polish but wanted to know if any fellow vikings have any first hand experience.

Thanks....:egrin:
 

Brian K

Member III
Maine Sail is Correct

I followed Maine Sail's directions and a few years bought the Makita buffer, the pads and products he recommends. I didn't need to do the sanding as my hull was in good shape. Now, each Spring I do the buff, polish process followed by 2 coats of Collinite wax. The spray bottle of water is a key factor in the process. Looks great and lasts all season.
 

Emerald

Moderator
Hi Everyone,

Lot's of great info on non Awlgrip paint posted here.... interesting to hear of all the different products and techniques. Does anyone have any info/experience on bringing Awlgrip finish back??? I do know Awlgrip sells their own brand of cleaner/polish but wanted to know if any fellow vikings have any first hand experience.

Thanks....:egrin:

Hi,

I have Awlgrip on my hull. Here's my take on it. The AllCare and AllWash products work well to maintain your finish, and if used seasonly/more, you will preserve the shine. The shine with Awlgrip is on the surface, and if you buff it with compounds, you will loose it, and even if it looks good on the short term, it will not last. My hull was done with Awlgrip about 9 years ago, and it has maintained its shine. I, and the prior owner, were/are religious in using the AwlWash and Allcare products from the start, and they have paid off. If your Awlgrip finish is faded, you can try to buff it, but the results will probably not be lasting since the shine is in the very top surface. Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

sv_naidia

Member II
Awlgrip Shine

Hi,

I have Awlgrip on my hull. Here's my take on it. The AllCare and AllWash products work well to maintain your finish, and if used seasonly/more, you will preserve the shine. The shine with Awlgrip is on the surface, and if you buff it with compounds, you will loose it, and even if it looks good on the short term, it will not last. My hull was done with Awlgrip about 9 years ago, and it has maintained its shine. I, and the prior owner, were/are religious in using the AwlWash and Allcare products from the start, and they have paid off. If your Awlgrip finish is faded, you can try to buff it, but the results will probably not be lasting since the shine is in the very top surface. Hope this helps.

Hi David,

Thanks for your reply and take on Awlgrip. You confirmed what I had always heard. My shine is not that faded nor oxidized. I'll give the Allcare a shot.

Thanks again,
 
Top