Ice box cold plate

Chris Mc.

Member III
Tallying up some winter projects, I’m contemplating upgrading the ice box in my E32-3 with a cold plate. I’m curious and sure many have done this and am definitely open for advice and suggestions. Being a jack of all trades and a master of none, not so sure it’s a project I should tackle or farm out to a professional.

Thanks in advance.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I do realize that the curse of the internet is to ask a question and get back an (non)answer about your motives.... but.... :(

I wonder why you would not want to use one of the simpler 12 volt refrigeration conversions?
Or is there a performance advantage in the cold plate system that better suits you use of the boat?
 

Chris Mc.

Member III
Good inquiry Loren and the simplest accurate answer I can give is; I don’t know. I was unaware of a 12v refer configuration and wrongfully presumed the cold plate was the only option.
No worries about the (non)answer. Your reply is exactly what I was hoping for...experience. :egrin:
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Our Norcold icebox conversion kit is L-shaped, so would fit in various size ice boxes. Ours is about 5 cu. ft. It works well, is relatively easy to install, uses about 3.5 amps per hour when running but in cooler climates only needs to operate about half the time to keep temps cool, so only uses about 20 amps per 24 hours. My first one lasted 15 years and the current one is going strong after 10.
Frank
 

Joliba

1988 E38-200 Contributing Member
We installed a Frigoboat unit that uses a keel cooler as a heat exchanger. If you are not sailing in the tropics, this works very well. It was easy to install without prior experience. It is very quiet. We cannot hear it at all. Power draw is minimal. (I do not recall our numbers, but you can likely find that information on the Internet from other users.) we did not re-insulate our 1988 E38-200 factory ice box. It cools enough to work as a freezer and refrigerator.
We recently replaced ours, and by mistake got one of the wrong size. It is fully pre-charged with refrigerant and still in the shipping box. So, if you are interested in a 12.5”x4.5”x8.5” bin style evaporator plate at much less than cost, let me know.
Mike Jacker
 

Marlin Prowell

E34 - Bellingham, WA
I second Loren’s choice. We have something similar. The rectangular cooling box won’t make ice cubes, but keeps ice cubes that you bring to the boat frozen for .... days. We don’t actually know for how long because we’ve used up all the ice in gin and tonics long before the ice cubes have thawed. Keeps ice cream bars frozen, too. Oh, and the rest of the ice box stays nice and cold.

It’s a wonderful upgrade.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I have a Dometic Cold Machine, 10-year-old version. With compressor it's about $1500, plus installation. It does make ice cubes in the vertical trays if you give it a day or two. Runs at dockside 24/7/365. On ship's batteries draws about 2 amps/hour once cold, more in tropics.

 

Chris Mc.

Member III
We installed a Frigoboat unit that uses a keel cooler as a heat exchanger. If you are not sailing in the tropics, this works very well. It was easy to install without prior experience. It is very quiet. We cannot hear it at all. Power draw is minimal. (I do not recall our numbers, but you can likely find that information on the Internet from other users.) we did not re-insulate our 1988 E38-200 factory ice box. It cools enough to work as a freezer and refrigerator.
We recently replaced ours, and by mistake got one of the wrong size. It is fully pre-charged with refrigerant and still in the shipping box. So, if you are interested in a 12.5”x4.5”x8.5” bin style evaporator plate at much less than cost, let me know.
Mike Jacker
I may be interested. I’m going to do some research and get some measurements when I get to the boat.
 

Chris Mc.

Member III
Thanks for the information and suggestions, it helps tremendously. The isotherm and Domestic are units I’ve been considering.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Speaking of the Frigoboat with "keel cooler". I installed one of those in our boat in about 2004. Worked great, but also started failing about a decade later. After consulting with a technician, I changed to the Isotherm unit with the radiator type heat exchanger and we glassed over the hole where the outside heat exchanger used to live.
Note that those normally-reliable push together tubing fittings have an extra couple of them to eventually leak, when you use the thruhull system. We suspect that this may have resulted in refrigerant loss, but really do not know.

Our technician said that it would be dollar-foolish to pay him to futz with it @ $100. an hour..... when I can buy an all new assembly for less than a thousand, give or take. The install is pretty easy.

FWIW, the newer Isotherm is just as quiet and seems to be just as thrifty with amperage.

Of course, YMMV.
:)
 
Last edited:

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
Interesting thread. I am interested in converting my ice-box to a fridge at some point. Maybe next year; main sail is first. Until then, I will probably look for 12-volt portable fridge just to keep drinks cool. My alcohol stove was removed (but system is still in boat), so I have space for a cooler there.
 

JSM

Member III
Went with a Norcold dual voltage L shaped plate in the galley ice box on our 34-2. Worth every penny!
 

kiwisailor

Member III
Blogs Author
Tallying up some winter projects, I’m contemplating upgrading the ice box in my E32-3 with a cold plate. I’m curious and sure many have done this and am definitely open for advice and suggestions. Being a jack of all trades and a master of none, not so sure it’s a project I should tackle or farm out to a professional.

Thanks in advance.
My E38 came with a Seafrost cold plate system http://www.seafrost.com/ it has both engine driven compressor and shore power (110V) assist compressor cold plate. It works very well. Whenever I'm out cruising and need to run the engine I also run the compressor to pull the cold plate down. After upgrading my solar PV capacity I can also run the 110V shore assist compressor from my inverter. Not a very efficient way to run it but it does the job to keep the plate frozen down. If I was doing a new install I would go with a 12V driven compressor.
 

windblown

Member III
We have the isotherm described in post #5 (Or a very similar model), installed by PO in our galley ice box maybe 10 years ago. We run it all season 24/7 when on shore power. We usually turn it off when we leave the dock, but the ice stays frozen and everything stays nice and cold for a weekend, even in 90 degree weather. We have the condenser in the starboard lazarette, where it gets plenty of fresh air for circulation, and we can check the coil for freezing. It may create a steady drip of condensation on warm, humid days, but it drains into the bilge. If/when this one goes, we would replace it with a simllar unit without any hesitation.
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
I use a heavy duty CAT ice chest. Keeps ice from melting over a weekend. Cost less than $100. As alternate, throw 2/20# bag of ice in one or both ice boxes in the galley, also good for a weekend.
 

wynkoop

Member III
My icebox seems to be really poorly insulated. I added an extra 1/2 of styrofoam on the forward and starboard sides. I can not access the aft outside or port outside of the icebox. I can not keep a bag of ice for a day let alone a weekend. I fear any refer install would be energy wasteful.

I did add some styrofoam to the inside of the icebox hatch board as well with little effect. I would love some ideas on getting better insulation around the box.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
My icebox seems to be really poorly insulated. I added an extra 1/2 of styrofoam on the forward and starboard sides. I can not access the aft outside or port outside of the icebox. I can not keep a bag of ice for a day let alone a weekend. I fear any refer install would be energy wasteful.

I did add some styrofoam to the inside of the icebox hatch board as well with little effect. I would love some ideas on getting better insulation around the box.
Hi Brett, long time ago, I added an inch of foil-face rigid foam insulation to the inside 'roof' of our ice box. Also to the underside of the removable lid. EY had not done this. Makes a noticeable difference in maintaining the cold.

If, perchance, your ice box has an open hose draining melt water (and most of the cold air....) into the bilge, put a cork in it.

Another thing I did, after reading up on heat transfer into these little boxes was to put some thin soft foam "weather tape" on the underside of the lid edges where it rests on the internal flange. That makes a large difference. This considerably reduces the amount of outside moisture sneaking in to condense on the coils and ice them up.
Our '88 model has about 1.5 inches of rigid foam glued to the outside, but like you I have added another inch of closed cell foam to the three sides that I can reach.

It's kind of "a game of inches" where you just keep sealing it better and insulating it better and then...... one weekend cruise you notice that the reefer compressor is running well under half the time and your food is at 38 degrees, ... and.... life is good! The Admiral is happy, and you open a bottle of chilled wine. :)
Salud!!

Also, to prevent unnecessary opening of the lid to check on the little cheap thermometer I had left inside, I bought a little sender and remote display from Camping World so we can monitor the inside box temp while sitting at the nav table, just like real "yacht owners" might do!
:)
Good luck, and here's to future cold drinks!
 
Top