Alan Gomes
Sustaining Partner
As far as getting water in the fuel, this is probably as good a time as any to mention that changing the O-ring on the fuel fill cap is something one should put on the list of regular maintenance items.
Installing a new Racor 500 on an E32
Dave G.
1984 E30+ (SOLD)
Having just opened my tank for a leak repair that looks to be the goop I scraped and scrubbed from the bottom of the tank. I got about a quart of that nasty stuff in the end. My tank did not have a inspection port previously so I presume that was an accumulation of 37 years of zero cleaning. If your tank does not have an inspection port you may be able to remove the fuel level sensor and at least get a peak at the bottom of your tank.
Yes, view through the fuel sensor port is useful. Members have had success with inexpensive borescope cameras for iPhone. Could relieve worries (all tanks have some degree of glop).
Dave G.
1984 E30+ (SOLD)
The ugly truth is if your seeing chunks in your filters you need to clean your tank. If you don't have port(s) you'll need to cut one or two in depending on baffle location(s) & Christian has a great blog on doing that. Not a pleasant lob but if you get a big enough chunk stuck if your fuel line it will full on stop fuel flowing.
Norwester
Member I
With initial guidance from @vanilladuck and @Kenneth K, I've ripped out my nearly 40-year old fuel system and made very similar "upgrade" to Bryan's good work illustrated throughout this thread.
Since I'm attending to the fuel system, I wished to ensure fuel tank and sending unit were also in good order. Fortunately, my tank has a visual 6" hole also on the top. I evacuated some 7ish gallons, tested (good) sending unit and... the sludge (yuck!). I grabbed pick-up tube to check rigidity (good), and ordered replacement seals for sending unit and large seal for inspection opening.
I discovered how to remove the wooden bracing board which run fore/aft on the inboard side of the removable panel to the engine compartment on the port side (Philips/plus crews) and marked where the screws were with marker both on the wood and fiberglass where the wood meets.
I tried creating a separate wood panel for the Racor 500, such as @vanilladuck , but my water tank and cabling interfered. Therefore, I found T-Nuts to do the trick of helping to fasten the Fuel Filter Assembly to the wood with appropriately sized bolts.
NOTE: Dry Fit EVERYTHING, attach all fittings and dry fit everything again.
Moored here in Ballard with a number of excellent company resources, Larry at Neabar Hose and Fittings was a wizard in helping source and sell me appropriate fittings for the RACOR 500 and my existing fuel shut-off valve.
I also purchased and installed the FACET cube pump and included in-line element/filter (replaceable...should I carry one aboard?). This is powered and requires grounding. I used the existing power supply (pink wire) and ground wire (making the connection at the attachment screw).
I anticipate "viewing" the fuel bowl beneath the RACOR 500 to be difficult, but that was already the case with the existing RACOR 220 series bottom filter screw-off element & bowl. Again, my overall goal was to renew the system's equipment and also, hopefully, improve access to element/filter replacements.
Additionally, I moved the secondary filter on @Kenneth K recommendation (it really is in a HORRIBLE location, should one need to make emergency fuel filter changes in rough weather...that's when sludge is going to get into the fuel system). While our sink was out, this access was quite helpful when I needed to reconnect the fuel hoses. (should have removed the galley sink first thing!)
Lucky Me, I discovered my M-25 already was installed with a "recirculating fuel bleed assembly," (which I've currently left alone until I get engine started and might be able to upgrade hoses with leisure and easy access under companionway.
Today, I hose clamped everything together, and will finish up the minor tank work soon. Pics below.
My plan is to ask a crewmember to turn the key, energizing the fuel pump to draw fuel from the (partially) filled fuel tank both fill the RACOR...at which point I'll install the element...and continue energizing to fill the secondary engine filter/element and possibly bleed the system as well. (I'll let ya know).
Using @vanilladuck itemized sheet format, below you'll see my costs (compared) and hyperlinks to parts.
Since I'm attending to the fuel system, I wished to ensure fuel tank and sending unit were also in good order. Fortunately, my tank has a visual 6" hole also on the top. I evacuated some 7ish gallons, tested (good) sending unit and... the sludge (yuck!). I grabbed pick-up tube to check rigidity (good), and ordered replacement seals for sending unit and large seal for inspection opening.
I discovered how to remove the wooden bracing board which run fore/aft on the inboard side of the removable panel to the engine compartment on the port side (Philips/plus crews) and marked where the screws were with marker both on the wood and fiberglass where the wood meets.
I tried creating a separate wood panel for the Racor 500, such as @vanilladuck , but my water tank and cabling interfered. Therefore, I found T-Nuts to do the trick of helping to fasten the Fuel Filter Assembly to the wood with appropriately sized bolts.
NOTE: Dry Fit EVERYTHING, attach all fittings and dry fit everything again.
Moored here in Ballard with a number of excellent company resources, Larry at Neabar Hose and Fittings was a wizard in helping source and sell me appropriate fittings for the RACOR 500 and my existing fuel shut-off valve.
I also purchased and installed the FACET cube pump and included in-line element/filter (replaceable...should I carry one aboard?). This is powered and requires grounding. I used the existing power supply (pink wire) and ground wire (making the connection at the attachment screw).
I anticipate "viewing" the fuel bowl beneath the RACOR 500 to be difficult, but that was already the case with the existing RACOR 220 series bottom filter screw-off element & bowl. Again, my overall goal was to renew the system's equipment and also, hopefully, improve access to element/filter replacements.
Additionally, I moved the secondary filter on @Kenneth K recommendation (it really is in a HORRIBLE location, should one need to make emergency fuel filter changes in rough weather...that's when sludge is going to get into the fuel system). While our sink was out, this access was quite helpful when I needed to reconnect the fuel hoses. (should have removed the galley sink first thing!)
Lucky Me, I discovered my M-25 already was installed with a "recirculating fuel bleed assembly," (which I've currently left alone until I get engine started and might be able to upgrade hoses with leisure and easy access under companionway.
Today, I hose clamped everything together, and will finish up the minor tank work soon. Pics below.
My plan is to ask a crewmember to turn the key, energizing the fuel pump to draw fuel from the (partially) filled fuel tank both fill the RACOR...at which point I'll install the element...and continue energizing to fill the secondary engine filter/element and possibly bleed the system as well. (I'll let ya know).
Using @vanilladuck itemized sheet format, below you'll see my costs (compared) and hyperlinks to parts.
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Prairie Schooner
Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
@Norwester - Great documentation!
"My plan is to ask a crewmember to turn the key, energizing the fuel pump . . ." - A trick I learned from one of Christian's posts is to leave the battery switch off, turn the key on, then, back down by the engine, use the battery switch to energize the system as needed. Works like a charm for solo boat work.
"My plan is to ask a crewmember to turn the key, energizing the fuel pump . . ." - A trick I learned from one of Christian's posts is to leave the battery switch off, turn the key on, then, back down by the engine, use the battery switch to energize the system as needed. Works like a charm for solo boat work.
Thirty seconds on changing a Racor 200 at sea: Meh. (and I don't think the micron factor mattered at all. Just glop in the tank stirred up by the seaway)
Pete the Cat
Sustaining Member
I am going to guess that is an overdose of a fuel additive that was in an engine that sat for a bit. That had to be created between the primary and the secondary so it is either collected or grown. I have pulled some weird goo out of fuel lines--some of it resembling those fake nightcrawlers fishermen use that had almost all the same properties. It also could be improper sealant used to try to fix a leak put on too thick. Actually, I will go with the improperly used wrong sealant as my best answer.