I am looking to buy a new used boat. I am stepping up from a C&C 25 to something in the 30’ to 34’ range. I currently have my eye on a 1979 E30+ in very good condition. Will it perform as well as my C&C? is it a safe boat for short off shore trips (i.e. coastal Main to cape cod Islands? What are it’s design strengths/weaknesses? What are weak spots I should look for that may need repair? Has anybody come up with a good way to make the V berth more livable (i.e. bigger)? What is a fair price (1998 sails, new holding and fresh water tanks, new rudder, adequately equipped but not a lot of extras, fresh water east coast boat)? Where can I find a review/s of this boat? Answers to any or all of these questions will be greatly appreciated.
8 yrs. w/30+
I owned a 1980 30+ for 8 years. Sailed her on the Great Lakes (Lake Huron). Both cruised & raced. Took several trips to the North Channel, raced the Double Handed Chalenge, Wed. night beer can races, etc.
Loved the boat. Biggest shortcoming was V-berth a bit small for someone 6'1" & 235 lbs. (me). Doesn't have storage room of a Catalina 30 but will sail circles around one! Sails very well to a PHRF rating of 168 in Lakes region. With the deep (6') keel & fractional rig she went VERY well to weather, but really liked the spinnaker off the wind.
Spent up to 2 weeks at a time cruising w/no problems at all. Time spent away from the dock limited by holding cap. fresh water cap. & ice. About 4 days out and we had to head for a port to pump out, top off the water & get ice.
Only reason we sold her was to buy our present 1988 E34. Cured the small V-berth and refrigeration issue. (Biggest refrigerator I ever bought!)
All in all for 2 or 3 people, I believe you'd be very happy with this boat. People have circumnavigated with them (I would'nt recommend that!) and I have found them to be very capable of handling heavy air & sea's. They have a rather large main (250 sq.ft.) so the trick is to reef early & often to keep them on their feet. If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
Have fun & sail fast.
Bud E34 "Escapade"
I owned a 1980 30+ for 8 years. Sailed her on the Great Lakes (Lake Huron). Both cruised & raced. Took several trips to the North Channel, raced the Double Handed Chalenge, Wed. night beer can races, etc.
Loved the boat. Biggest shortcoming was V-berth a bit small for someone 6'1" & 235 lbs. (me). Doesn't have storage room of a Catalina 30 but will sail circles around one! Sails very well to a PHRF rating of 168 in Lakes region. With the deep (6') keel & fractional rig she went VERY well to weather, but really liked the spinnaker off the wind.
Spent up to 2 weeks at a time cruising w/no problems at all. Time spent away from the dock limited by holding cap. fresh water cap. & ice. About 4 days out and we had to head for a port to pump out, top off the water & get ice.
Only reason we sold her was to buy our present 1988 E34. Cured the small V-berth and refrigeration issue. (Biggest refrigerator I ever bought!)
All in all for 2 or 3 people, I believe you'd be very happy with this boat. People have circumnavigated with them (I would'nt recommend that!) and I have found them to be very capable of handling heavy air & sea's. They have a rather large main (250 sq.ft.) so the trick is to reef early & often to keep them on their feet. If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask.
Have fun & sail fast.
Bud E34 "Escapade"
I bought my E30+ in the fall of 2001, so I have sailed it for the last two summers on the Chesapeake. From reading the previous post, I am not as experienced a boater as the previous poster, nor have I owned this boat as long. I have upgraded it continuously since owning it, and have some observations.
First, I REALLY dislike how the cockpit scuppers drain into the hull and out the through-hulls on either side of the engine. I have a continuous low grade concern a leak will occur while I am not at the boat, and sink it.
Second, I think there is really insufficient storage in the boat as a whole, and especially in the cockpit. The port lazarette is your only access to the aft engine compartment, stuffing box, etc., so you can't really put anything there.
Third, the boom sits so low that it is really hard to put a dodger and bimini under it. The p.o. installed them, and I use them, but the boom will not clear the dodger on a tack, so I had to put a shortening reef on the mainsail, which I am sure negatively affects performance.
Fourth, I would pay very careful attention to the state of the engine, and especially be concerned about overheating. An extensive sea trial under load would be my recommendation, and make sure you have a GPS to measure boat speed, as knotmeters are seldom calibrated adequately, and bring a laser tachometer as the boat does not come with one.
Fifth, my boat had blistered, and had been peeled and re-covered before I bought it.
Sixth, you say it has a new rudder, but does it have a new rudder bearing?
Depending on condition, I would not pay more than 20k for the boat, and I would think you could get it closer to 16 or 17k if the seller is motivated.
I put new lifelines on my boat, two #40 Anderson self-tailers as primaries, a #14 Lewmar self tailer on the main halyard, a new spinlock rope clutch on the main, lazy jacks, new knot and depth sounders (Raymarine, quite a job rebedding the through hulls and sizing down the holes in the cockpit bulkhead), a new smaller jib, completely compounded and polished the entire hull (looks great). I am in the process of replacing the mainsheet traveler.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.....yes the v-berth SUCKS!
First, I REALLY dislike how the cockpit scuppers drain into the hull and out the through-hulls on either side of the engine. I have a continuous low grade concern a leak will occur while I am not at the boat, and sink it.
Second, I think there is really insufficient storage in the boat as a whole, and especially in the cockpit. The port lazarette is your only access to the aft engine compartment, stuffing box, etc., so you can't really put anything there.
Third, the boom sits so low that it is really hard to put a dodger and bimini under it. The p.o. installed them, and I use them, but the boom will not clear the dodger on a tack, so I had to put a shortening reef on the mainsail, which I am sure negatively affects performance.
Fourth, I would pay very careful attention to the state of the engine, and especially be concerned about overheating. An extensive sea trial under load would be my recommendation, and make sure you have a GPS to measure boat speed, as knotmeters are seldom calibrated adequately, and bring a laser tachometer as the boat does not come with one.
Fifth, my boat had blistered, and had been peeled and re-covered before I bought it.
Sixth, you say it has a new rudder, but does it have a new rudder bearing?
Depending on condition, I would not pay more than 20k for the boat, and I would think you could get it closer to 16 or 17k if the seller is motivated.
I put new lifelines on my boat, two #40 Anderson self-tailers as primaries, a #14 Lewmar self tailer on the main halyard, a new spinlock rope clutch on the main, lazy jacks, new knot and depth sounders (Raymarine, quite a job rebedding the through hulls and sizing down the holes in the cockpit bulkhead), a new smaller jib, completely compounded and polished the entire hull (looks great). I am in the process of replacing the mainsheet traveler.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head.....yes the v-berth SUCKS!
I neglected to mention that the boat sails absolutely great, even with the shoal draft. We (my wife and I) consistently outpoint most boats around us, and in the light airs of the Chesapeake, it sails very well off the wind.
Remember that a fractionally-rigged boat is much more dependent on mainsail shape than the genoa for drive. A backstay adjuster is a big help in this regard.
Remember that a fractionally-rigged boat is much more dependent on mainsail shape than the genoa for drive. A backstay adjuster is a big help in this regard.
30+
The 30+ is, all in all, a very nice boat-tilwinter's observations notwithstanding (he makes some valid points).
If you would like some VERY detailed info on performance and handling issues, please contact me directly.At the right price, it is a much better than average design!
Best of luck!
The 30+ is, all in all, a very nice boat-tilwinter's observations notwithstanding (he makes some valid points).
If you would like some VERY detailed info on performance and handling issues, please contact me directly.At the right price, it is a much better than average design!
Best of luck!
more 30+
To address some of Tilwinters observations.
Yes, the boom does ride quite low. We had our dodger designed to clear by about 2" and this worked out fine. Even did some racing w/dodger in place w/o any problems. A bimini is pretty much out of the question, though. We used a boom tent while @ anchor in Canada. No problem.
Never had a single problem w/Universal 5416 diesel, although we did have to replace the reversing gear. No tach, no big deal. Boat would cruise @ 5.8-6.0 kn. and use a gallon every 3 hrs. @ 6.8-7.0 kn she would use about 1 gal/hr.
Temp. gauge always read fairly warm (205-210 range) never got any hotter than that & engine ran real well. Motorsailed to Canada several times (18 to 27 hrs non stop) w/o any trouble. Never had to add a single drop of oil between changes.
Converted to Harken traveler & Spinlock rope clutches, used stock winches w/winchers (the lt. blue rubber donuts). Agree w/Seth. A fine sailing vessel, all in all. We added storage behind the seats and never had a real problem carrying 2 weeks provisions. Attached is photo of dodger & cockpit set-up. Worked real well for us.
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
To address some of Tilwinters observations.
Yes, the boom does ride quite low. We had our dodger designed to clear by about 2" and this worked out fine. Even did some racing w/dodger in place w/o any problems. A bimini is pretty much out of the question, though. We used a boom tent while @ anchor in Canada. No problem.
Never had a single problem w/Universal 5416 diesel, although we did have to replace the reversing gear. No tach, no big deal. Boat would cruise @ 5.8-6.0 kn. and use a gallon every 3 hrs. @ 6.8-7.0 kn she would use about 1 gal/hr.
Temp. gauge always read fairly warm (205-210 range) never got any hotter than that & engine ran real well. Motorsailed to Canada several times (18 to 27 hrs non stop) w/o any trouble. Never had to add a single drop of oil between changes.
Converted to Harken traveler & Spinlock rope clutches, used stock winches w/winchers (the lt. blue rubber donuts). Agree w/Seth. A fine sailing vessel, all in all. We added storage behind the seats and never had a real problem carrying 2 weeks provisions. Attached is photo of dodger & cockpit set-up. Worked real well for us.
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
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Regarding the 30+:
My boat does have a bimini, so they are "do-able", but I tend not to use it, primarily because it is so difficult to board when it is up. It is nice to have on a really sunny day tho...
Regarding my comments on the engine, and the tachometer: it's not so much that the lack of a tachometer is a flaw of the boat, but that in evaluating the engine, one needs to be sure that the engine is operating at the recommended rpm. If the knotmeter is calibrated incorrectly, you may think you are moving at "six knots" when in fact you are really only going 4 or so (I see this all the time on my friends boats). And if the engine is only at 1800 rpm, maybe you will not detect a tendency to overheat which would reveal itself when running at 2000 rpm and making a true 5.5 knots. I have never gotten around to calibrating my new knotmeter, but I know it is about 1.5 knots slow. If I were doing a sea trial, I would want to verify boat speed by GPS, and engine rpm by laser tach (which I have subsequently done).
Also, if Hyam is unfamiliar with Universal diesels, he should be aware of their tendency toward overheating, especially if the hot water heater is still plumbed in series with the thermostat, instead of in parallel, or if the heat exchanger is corroded, or if the exhaust elbow is partially clogged with deposits. I would run the diesel at hull speed for 30 to 60 minutes and would even consider spending 50 bucks for an infrared thermometer (the kind you point at the object to measure temperature), because who can trust the cheesy thermometer on the panel.
These are not fatal engine flaws, but they are examples of issues that all of us have faced, and I learned about only after buying the boat and finding this site.
My boat does have a bimini, so they are "do-able", but I tend not to use it, primarily because it is so difficult to board when it is up. It is nice to have on a really sunny day tho...
Regarding my comments on the engine, and the tachometer: it's not so much that the lack of a tachometer is a flaw of the boat, but that in evaluating the engine, one needs to be sure that the engine is operating at the recommended rpm. If the knotmeter is calibrated incorrectly, you may think you are moving at "six knots" when in fact you are really only going 4 or so (I see this all the time on my friends boats). And if the engine is only at 1800 rpm, maybe you will not detect a tendency to overheat which would reveal itself when running at 2000 rpm and making a true 5.5 knots. I have never gotten around to calibrating my new knotmeter, but I know it is about 1.5 knots slow. If I were doing a sea trial, I would want to verify boat speed by GPS, and engine rpm by laser tach (which I have subsequently done).
Also, if Hyam is unfamiliar with Universal diesels, he should be aware of their tendency toward overheating, especially if the hot water heater is still plumbed in series with the thermostat, instead of in parallel, or if the heat exchanger is corroded, or if the exhaust elbow is partially clogged with deposits. I would run the diesel at hull speed for 30 to 60 minutes and would even consider spending 50 bucks for an infrared thermometer (the kind you point at the object to measure temperature), because who can trust the cheesy thermometer on the panel.
These are not fatal engine flaws, but they are examples of issues that all of us have faced, and I learned about only after buying the boat and finding this site.
Thank you all
I'm sorry for not responding to you all sooner. First I was waiting to get all the input, then I got sick, and then I was busy catching up from being sick.
Thank you all for your generous input it is very helpful in making my decision about buying the boat.
I'm still curious if anyone knows where I could get techinical specs. Most specifically ultimate righting moment for this boat.
If I get close to buying I may well come back to ask more questions.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Hyam
I'm sorry for not responding to you all sooner. First I was waiting to get all the input, then I got sick, and then I was busy catching up from being sick.
Thank you all for your generous input it is very helpful in making my decision about buying the boat.
I'm still curious if anyone knows where I could get techinical specs. Most specifically ultimate righting moment for this boat.
If I get close to buying I may well come back to ask more questions.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Hyam
Righting moment
Hyam,
What exactly are you looking for in regards to the righting moment? I can help you with basic info from the brochure, or, US Sailing may have an old IOR meaurement certificate which will show the calculated RM. The also have the Polar diagrams (peformacne charts), and if they have an Americap certificate on file it will also provide RM data. Check with someone there to see what they have-either an IOR or Americap certificate will give the info-or contact me directly.
Good luck
Hyam,
What exactly are you looking for in regards to the righting moment? I can help you with basic info from the brochure, or, US Sailing may have an old IOR meaurement certificate which will show the calculated RM. The also have the Polar diagrams (peformacne charts), and if they have an Americap certificate on file it will also provide RM data. Check with someone there to see what they have-either an IOR or Americap certificate will give the info-or contact me directly.
Good luck