MARTEC Feathering Prop

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Tom Plummer

Member III
I am thinking strongly of moving my E35-2 to Flounder Bay on Fildagio Is.. The boat is currently moored at the Port of Everett. The problem is the length of the family slip which is now vacent. The finger is only 24 feet long so I will have to back into the slip. My boat currently has a fixed 3 blade prop and has a lot of prop walk. This is somtimes of use but not in this case it walks the wrong direction. Martec claims their feathering 3 blade prop will all but eliminate this problem. Their S-1 15 inch prop is $1648.00 while the equivalant MaxProp is $2750.00. Has aynone had any experance with the MARTEC prop. $1100.00 is a big diferance in price and the only real diferance I can see is the MARTEC is Stainless and the MAXPROP is bronze. MARTEC claims the stainless is better. Your toughts would be apreciated.
 
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Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Re: MARTEC Prop

Originally posted by Tom Plummer
I am thinking strongly of moving my E35-2 to Flounder Bay on Fildagio Is.. The boat is currently moored at the Port of Everett. The problem is the length of the family slip which is now vacent. The finger is only 24 feet long so I will have to back into the slip. My boat currently has a fixed 3 blade prop and has a lot of prop walk. This is somtimes of use but not in this case it walks the wrong direction. Martec claims their feathering 3 blade prop will all but eliminate this problem. Their S-1 15 inch prop is $1648.00 while the equivalant MaxProp is $2750.00. Has aynone had any experance with the MARTEC prop. $1100.00 is a big diferance in price and the only real diferance I can see is the MARTEC is Stainless and the MAXPROP is bronze. MARTEC claims the stainless is better. Your toughts would be apreciated.
Click to expand...

I bought a Martec feathering (bronze) two blade for our boat in '95. They were several hundred $ less than Max, at that time. I have excellent (!) reverse power with nearly all of the prior prop-walk to port elliminated from when I had the original fixed two-blade. I would have gone for their three-blade featherer, but was running over budget...
Now, the newest Martec is SS, and I would love to have one. The company is an old but small company, which I like. Unlike the "Max", the Martec has a grease fitting, and the pitch is externally adjustable (!).
These props, no matter what make, do need more maint. than a fixed prop, you should note. I have friends with Maxprops who have had theirs overhauled after years/miles of use, and due to ours seeming a little stiffer than new, I will probably have it gone thru by Martec next time I haul out.
Loren
Olson 34 #8
 
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jwolfgra

Member II
The other evening I had an idea which might be crazy, but may address the problem with prop walk in the wrong direction. In my situation, my prop walks me in the wrong direction for my slip, it can make it a real hairy adventure getting out.

My idea was this:

Get a new fixed prop set to turn in the opposite direction as my current prop - I can't with clear conscience spend the $'s for a feathering prop . Then with the new prop installed, reverse the controls on my HURTH HB50 transmission, e.g., run it in reverse to go forward and vice a versa. Given my understanding of two shaft transmissions, they're symetrical in each direction, I can't think it would hurt.

While I'd still have prop walk, it would be in a convenient direction.

Does this make any sense?
 
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Tom Plummer

Member III
Changing the rotation direction of the prop would mean that you would have to be in reverse on your transmission to go forward. I have never seen a marine transmision which was designed to run in reverse most of the time. Also there is the problem of gear ratio I think that you will find that there is a significant diferance between forward and reverse. That is why all of the feathering props have seperat adjustments for forward and reverse.
 
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jwolfgra

Member II
You've hit it on the head, I am talking about running in reverse most of the time. My understanding of the Hurth HB50 which is a two shaft transmission, is that it has same gear ratios in each direction, and the same clutching mechanism in each direction. This is quite different than the planatary gear type of transmission like on on an A4. Those have an entirely different design, different types of clutch each way and 1.3 to 1 reduction in reverse. Anyways, I was just daydreaming on this, probably won't act, but just for grins I'm going to check with the manufacturer and see what they say about my idea.
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Originally posted by Tom Plummer
That is why all of the feathering props have seperat adjustments for forward and reverse.
Click to expand...

In '95, when I bought my Martec feathering prop, it had separate adjustments for the stops for both forward and reverse, but the Maxprop did not. Both adjustments are external, on the Martec. If I have unfairly characterized the Max in its present form, I appologise.
There was, and is, another spendier separate model of the Maxprop, called the "VR", which has an external adjustment ring, and a larger-size hub, as I recall.

Fair winds,

Loren
 
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sailingdeacon

Member III
Martec NOT a Maxprop

I have a Martec (not a Maxprop as originally stated) on my '87 E34, which was installed by the former owner. I notice very little prop walk at all. However, if I were buying new, I would not buy a feathering prop unless racing was paramount. All these type of props must be maintained which is a real pain. Props should do their job and be forgotten. So... I would look at a really wonderful three-blade prop called the Campbell prop. A very unique design with very low drag. I had one on a previous boat and loved it. Only a slight prop walk. Extremely balanced also. I'd talk to them (on the internet and located in BC) and discuss your problem. The cost is only a little more than a three blade Michigan prop. Custom made and delivery in 2-3 weeks. (As a footnote, Martecs of the older style, which I have, can separate without notice - as mine did this spring. A real bummer considering you think the problem is a transmission problem)
 
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sailingdeacon

Member III
Martec comment follow up

You probably are fine, but.... On my model there are 3 screws that hold the blade section to the forward part. Those three screws are hidden from view but are accessible via an allen wrench. One day they loosened and the unit separated by about a quarter inch or more. The effect was that the blades stay in the feathered position since the gears were not meshed. I suppose eventually the back end would fall off. Not knowing all that, the effect was that there was a bad transmission since there was noise, vibration and the engine would die (a 30 hp engine!). A diver checked out the blade but did not know what to look for. After much money spent on engine/transmission debugging we found the problem.

The solution is: one is supposed to use locktite on the screws (with a haulout), which I find worrisome. Whether locktite was originally used, I do not know. But I had the boat for a year with no problem. Martec offers a fix by drilling counter screws into the unit - at a pricey figure. I told them why should I have to pay to fix what I think is a design flaw. One more failure for me and the blade is scrap.

I understand this fix is on new martecs. Don't know for sure. Again, I'd go for a Capmbell. Test show it's 3 blade drag is only slightly more than a sailor 2 blade.
 
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Geoff Johnson

Fellow Ericson Owner
Thanks. I have the two bladed "classic" and the only screws I can see on the prop and in the exploded view schematic on the PYI web site are the six holding the two halves together and they are all secured from turning with cotter pins.

BTW, I got tired of spending $50 bucks a season to have the yard lube the prop, so I bought the lube kit (gun, grease and nipples) from PYI for $20.
 
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JM

Member I
Martec prop

I do believe that a stainless steel prop is better, since it is a tough alloy with very high strength. BUT, is it worth the investment?

I know that on powerboats, s.s. is the way to go for speed, and for light impact with debris of beaching, s.s. will hold out much better than aluminum. But for a folder? I would suspect that the impact of the blades opening up, if made out of s.s., would have a higher resonance throughout the boat's mechanics.

Have you considered a Campbell Sailor prop? They have a thin blade, with a reduced area to lower prop drag. I can send you a pic of what mine looks like, if you like.

Also, how about a bow thruster? Would that help, and also at lower investment. Let me know if you need anything further. J. Michel
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Re: Martec prop

Originally posted by JM
I do believe that a stainless steel prop is better, since it is a tough alloy with very high strength. BUT, is it worth the investment?

I know that on powerboats, s.s. is the way to go for speed, and for light impact with debris of beaching, s.s. will hold out much better than aluminum. But for a folder? I would suspect that the impact of the blades opening up, if made out of s.s., would have a higher resonance throughout the boat's mechanics.
Click to expand...

Please note that this thread is about FEATHERING props, Martec and/or Maxprop, and not about folding props...
Totally different critters...

Loren
:)
 
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Tom Plummer

Member III
The Cambel won't work becauss it does nothing to solve the prop walk problem. I checked out a bow thruster and it would be considerably more by the time you got it installed and they do add drag.
 
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sailingdeacon

Member III
Unless other E35-2's have prop walk that bad, something odd is going on. Describe the walk please. If it moves laterally over a foot or so the first 4-5 feet, I say something else is going on. The fin keel boats I have had were never more than that. I cannot imagine an Ericson having that bad a problem. What is the pitch? Most 3-blades would have a 10" pitch I would guess. If yours is much more than that, maybe that is the problem. Did the boat always walk badly? A change perhaps somewhere? I'd first find out if E-35's are prone to walk badly.
 
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Tom Plummer

Member III
Yes the boat has always had the prop walk problem. The shaft and strut have been checked and all is straight and true. The prop was changed from a folder to a fixed 3 blade with no apreciable diferance. I am told that my version on the 35-2 has more prop walk than the ones with engine under the settee. Ericson changed the location the engine when they went to diesels' due to the noise problem in the main salon. I have the model with the engine under the companionway ladder which supposidly has the prop walk problem.
 
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Tom Plummer

Member III
Well I went ahead and did it. I bit the bullet and bought the Martec Feathering Prop. The prop is actually and Autostream which is manufactured by Seahawk Pty Ltd in Australia. So far I am very happy with it.

It replaced a fixed 14.5” pitch unknown 3 blade prop. Because the feathering prop blades sit about 4” further back on the shaft I was able to use a 15” prop and have more than adequate clearance.

The installation was pretty straight forward the only modification I had to make was to cut .53” of the shaft off. The prop nut is inside of the hub and there has to be a least .75” of clearance between the end of the shaft treads and the end of the prop hub.

I have realized the following gains:

.75 kts of speed under power
.8 kts under sail
The boat now backs straight.

For me it was worth the 1.6 boat bucks.
 
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
My Martec feathering is the two-blade bronze version. Did you, perchance, go with the newer SS three-blade? From your price, it sounds like you might have done so. I paid about $975. for our prop.

Mine is working fine after 7 years, altho I did have Martec "refurbish" it for $80. while the boat was out of the water for a bottom job last month. They cleaned and pollished it and re-ballanced it --- and told me it needed very little done to it.
They *did* say to use a white low-viscosity grease on it in the future. Our water is cold here and the usual cartridge of green "water proof" grease is so thick that I was having to reverse it twice sometimes to get the blades to go the other way.

We just got back from an overnight visit to a dock up the Columbia River with some YC sailing friends, and several commented on how our boat backed up straight this morning when I put it in reverse to leave the inside position at the dock...

Loren in Portland, OR
Olson 34 #8

:cool:
 
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