Opening Ports, used and new, one Alum. toe rail section

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
**Post #2 in this series.
More reusable parts, mostly from our 34 footer.
**(updated 12-29-20 : teak handrails are sold)
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OPENING PORTS. All are Lewmar.
One newer port installed in the mid 90’s, when we added one for the aft cabin area.
Lewmar current model product, “Size One, Standard” , Cutout size is 13 3/4” X 6 3/4”.
Plastic inside trim.
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Five original 1988 Lewmar opening ports. These are Lewmar Old Standard ports.
None of these have leaked. I have replaced the little turn-lever O rings as needed,

All have their Lewmar plastic inside trim pieces, and all have fly screens. There is one spare screen also.
Of the five, two have some SS screws that broke off in their frame when I removed them. One screw in one port and three in another. These four screws may have to be drilled out.

Cutout Size for all of these is 13 3/4” X 6 3/4”.

Asking $25. each assembly. (Given that new fly screens list for $39.95, that seems like a good price, but offers will be considered.)

And: One more NEW Lewmar “old standard” opening port, size one.
No metric clamping screws, but it does have the inside plastic trim and fly screen. I found a deal on this many years ago and set it aside as a spare. Same size/style as our original ports, but the lens might possibly be a slightly different shade.
(Our new 2020 Lewmar ports are slightly larger, I should mention, so we decided to change them all out.)

$50. and that’s a good deal.
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So that’s six used Lewmar ports, and one ‘new old stock’ Lewmar.
And,, sorry, I do not want to sell the pricy Lewmar inside trims separately. :)

If someone wants these shipped, let's discuss that after the Christmas rush cools down. Standing in a line at the post office or a UPS office with other people nearby involves some risk that I would rather avoid for now.
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Black Anodized perforated Aluminum Toe Rail. Not off an EY model, but I picked it up years ago thinking we might use part of it on the transom top on our boat. Not a good look or fit for our particular boat, upon reflection.

10’ 8” long. Base is 1 1/2” wide. Outside from bottom to top is 1 3/8” . Attachment holes are industry standard 4” centers , 1/4-20 FH . The slots are 10 1/2” apart. Used but shows well, as salesmen like to say,
It has a slight curve: The radius measure 1 7/16” deflection for every 6’ of length. Experience shows that this product can be forced to be straight or even curve more.

Asking $5. Local pick up only.
 

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Last edited:

cnewhall

New Member
Hi! I am interested in a couple of the screens. Any chance you still have them? I am not in Oregon...but if you have them, I either could ask a friend in Portland or, if you are willing, I'd be very happy to pay for postage. I sail in Maine on a Ericson 27'.

Charlie
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Hi! I am interested in a couple of the screens. Any chance you still have them? I am not in Oregon...but if you have them, I either could ask a friend in Portland or, if you are willing, I'd be very happy to pay for postage. I sail in Maine on a Ericson 27'.

Charlie
Actually there is a local sailor friend that would like some of the screens.

Comment on Lewmar engineering.......... The screens have a (bad) habit of leaping over the side if one does not insert them exactly - they sort of kind of snap into place between the gasket and the frame. We do not have too many skeeters in our summers and did not use them often.
We have drop-over bug netting for both housetop hatches, that we do rely on when needed.
I would rather sell each port as a complete assembly.... if at all possible.
In the future I might reconsider, but not yet.
Thanks for asking. :)
 
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cnewhall

New Member
Thank you for your quick reply! Wish I could say the same about skeeters downeast Maine. Fair winds and following seas.
Charlie
 

KS Dave

Member II
Blogs Author
I would be interested in two of the used ones. My boat has a small window on each side. The one in the head is a slider and doesn't slide (I suspect it leaks, too!). The port side is a fixed, but the ventilation might be nice - it's located right above the locker.

I'll be at the lake on Tuesday, so I can measure. Hopefully they don't get snatched up before then.

Newbie question: what's the best way to measure without removing the existing windows? You gave the 'opening size'.

Port-Small-Window.pngStbd-Small-Window.png
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
I would be interested in two of the used ones. My boat has a small window on each side. The one in the head is a slider and doesn't slide (I suspect it leaks, too!). The port side is a fixed, but the ventilation might be nice - it's located right above the locker.

I'll be at the lake on Tuesday, so I can measure. Hopefully they don't get snatched up before then.

Newbie question: what's the best way to measure without removing the existing windows? You gave the 'opening size'.

View attachment 37267View attachment 37268
If you unscrew the interior ring, you can see the raw opening without disturbing the main port. Unless the exterior sealant is so dried out that it then shifts...
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Newbie question: what's the best way to measure without removing the existing windows? You gave the 'opening size'.
Not just a newbie question, but a logical one. The thing is, the overall dimensions usually do not give a really cut idea of the size of the cut-out needed to accept a new port. So it's best to follow Toddster's advice. :)

BTW, those early 70's slider ports were used by several boat builders, and they have a habit of allowing leakage around the felt strips the the sliding part moves in. However you change out to 'modern' opening ports, I think that the increased ventilation in that part of the interior will be welcomed....
 
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