Replacing shaft log hose

[JPS27]

I thought this process was straightforward. Mark both sides to coupling to know how they got back together. Take shaft side coupling off. Release coupling from shaft. Pull shaft back to get hose off replace hose, but back together.

However, I've been told that if I take off the shaft-side coupling to release the shaft from its coupling, I will likely need to get the shaft and both couplings re-fitted by a machine shop? That seems radical to me. I just need to slide the shaft back about 6 inches to replace the hose. I haven't done this before on this boat (not an ericson), so I still need to think about the space available to work on and remove the coupling, that space is tight. But if I can get the shaft off the coupling, I have plenty of room to get the hose off and on. At this point in my current boatyard experience, I do NOT want to have to take the shaft out for re-facing... that would mean probably dropping the rudder etc etc etc.

Thoughts? Thank you,

Jay

 

[Christian Williams]

During dripless shaft seal replacement by a boatyard, my prop shaft was discovered buggered within the coupling. Shafts are tapered, with a keyway. Such damage is said to be common after many years. The coupling itself is often/usually/always rusted and in need of replacing. Yes, on my model the rudder had to be dropped for the job.

Your plan is worth a try, but I'm not sure my issues were unexpected or radical.

 

[bigd14]

A New Prop Shaft - Marine How To

Originally Published 2014 Cutlass Bearing Removal Every now and then a boats propeller shafting need to be replaced. A replacement can be necessary due to corrosion, bending, wear at the stuffing box, wear a the cutlass bearing or a poorly installed/machined shaft to begin with.

marinehowto.com

Way down in the article there is a discussion of coupling fit.

 

[davehi]

Remove the propeller. Once the coupling is seperated, remove the stern side of coupling from the shaft by sliding the shaft back till it hits the rudder. There should be enough room to install the dripless shaft seal. But, before you install the new seal inspect the shaft log for wear and cracking. I had to replace mine. I can send you pics of that operation if you need them.
When finished, check the engine alignment.

 

[frick]

I truly believe ve that the classic stuff box on the prop shaft is cheaper and way safer than the dripless variety which can fail with the potential of creating a huge leak

 

[bigd14]

the dripless variety which can fail with the potential of creating a huge leak

They can indeed. I replaced this scary mess (that the surveyor completely missed) with a new PSS though, and check it religiously. I like a dry bilge and am willing to take that risk. The newer models use thicker bellows material than shown here.