Rudder post grease - E26

[KS Dave]

I should take a closer look, just out of curiosity. I've been back there and inspected the rudder tube and didn't see it, but perhaps there is one. Doubt I'd bother using it, though.

Mine is on the forward side of the tube. Did you ever make the modification for the removable panel in the quarter-berth? That makes access much easier (though still requires a fair bit of contortion).

 

[Alan Gomes]

Mine is on the forward side of the tube. Did you ever make the modification for the removable panel in the quarter-berth? That makes access much easier (though still requires a fair bit of contortion).

I'm sure there is no zerk on the front side of my rudder tube; I've looked at that side of it very carefully,

Yes, I made the quarter berth divider removable quite a few years ago.

 

[KS Dave]

I'm sure there is no zerk on the front side of my rudder tube; I've looked at that side of it very carefully,

Possibly one of those things they added on later models. The evolution of the E26 is interesting.

Yes, I made the quarter berth divider removable quite a few years ago.

Not unlike this feature! I couldn't remember if you'd done it.

 

[ALW]

OK, an update on my 34-2. After removing the auto-pilot assembly and the 2 through-bolts, I dropped the rudder post down about 3" (so I can shim the lower bushing). I was then able to see a completely rusted zerk fitting on the port side of the cockpit cap (upper bushing). So, I actually do have 2 zerks. The upper zerk I had not been able to see, or get to, with it on the side of the cap. There is only about an inch between the top of the quadrant and the bottom of the cockpit sole.

I've now removed the cockpit cap, fixed a bit of rot in the cockpit sole where the seal had leaked, and am now ready to put it back together. I'm speculating that the zerk got rotated when the PO had the autopilot installed. I'm rotating it back to the aft side (with a new zerk) so that both zerks can be easily greased from the locker. I'm looking forward to pumping in the grease!

 

[paul culver]

I have owned my E-29 for 19 years now and every time the zerk discussion comes up in this community I go to my boat and try to find them. So far, no joy. Good news is the steering is still smooth as butter.

 

[Tomfoolery]

Any specific type of grease required for this job? Any type of marine grease will do?

 

[Alan Gomes]

Any specific type of grease required for this job? Any type of marine grease will do?

I use SuperLube Teflon grease, which works fine and holds up a long time.

 

[Dave G.]

so I can shim the lower bushing

Curious how much play you have ? FWIW Couple years back I had to drop the rudder to get the prop shaft out and found a few wraps of old and decaying bronze or brass shim material around the rudder post. Also found the tube completely empty of any sign of grease. After experimenting with various types of shim material and how to keep it in place, I decided to reassemble without the shimming and pump the needed grease into the tube. I was pleasantly surprised to find the grease alone removed the play entirely. So you may want to grease it first and see if you really need the shim(s).

 

[Alan Gomes]

Curious how much play you have ? FWIW Couple years back I had to drop the rudder to get the prop shaft out and found a few wraps of old and decaying bronze or brass shim material around the rudder post. Also found the tube completely empty of any sign of grease. After experimenting with various types of shim material and how to keep it in place, I decided to reassemble without the shimming and pump the needed grease into the tube. I was pleasantly surprised to find the grease alone removed the play entirely. So you may want to grease it first and see if you really need the shim(s).

I shimmed my rudder post with stainless shims, top and bottom. I've observed no "decay" in them whatsoever. And I also have no play.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Apologies for reviving this post, but I'm piggybacking on my upper zerk issue from another thread, and maybe this is the answer instead. So just dump some grease around this post from above, and it'll find its way down? You did this without issue?

Brian,
What do you reckon the wall thickness of the rudder tube is (tube, not post)?

 

[Christian Williams]

On the E381 they wrapped the initial tube with what appears to be woven roving. My guess is it can approach 1/2" thick.

When I drilled the 32-3 tube it was at least 3/8th thick. Photos below show initial 1/2" bit hole, which stops before full penetration. Smaller hole is with 1/4" bit to open grease passage to rudder post.

...
E381. Photos to right are E32-3 rudder tube, drilled for grease fitting.

 

[bsangs]

Brian,
What do you reckon the wall thickness of the rudder tube is (tube, not post)?

I'm terrible with eyeballing measurements Jeff - one of the many reasons I majored in journalism, way back when. I'd go with what Christian said. It didn't take long to reach the post, that much I know.

 

[bsangs]

Any specific type of grease required for this job? Any type of marine grease will do?

I used Green Grease, based on recommendations in one of the rudder tube posts around here.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Thanks Christian @Christian Williams and Brian @bsangs
It's probably safe to assume our rudder hasn't seen new grease in some time.


Jeff

 

[bsangs]

Thanks Christian @Christian Williams and Brian @bsangs
It's probably safe to assume our rudder hasn't seen new grease in some time.

View attachment 46961
Jeff

That's a piece a cake compared to the other projects you're doing.

 

[ALW]

Curious how much play you have ? FWIW Couple years back I had to drop the rudder to get the prop shaft out and found a few wraps of old and decaying bronze or brass shim material around the rudder post. Also found the tube completely empty of any sign of grease. After experimenting with various types of shim material and how to keep it in place, I decided to reassemble without the shimming and pump the needed grease into the tube. I was pleasantly surprised to find the grease alone removed the play entirely. So you may want to grease it first and see if you really need the shim(s).

Hi Dave, I ended up installing a DIY stainless shim 0.010" thick, then pumping it full of grease. I made the shim from sheet stock, and included a flange at the bottom (multiple tabs), so the flange keeps it in place. I did think about just pumping it full of grease, but it was about to go back in the water and I wanted to know I'd done what I could when I could . . .