Standard Horizon Depth Finder Questions

Jeff Asbury

Jeff Asbury

Principal Partner
Standard Horizon Depth Finder Questions

I have purchased a new Standard Horizon Depth Finder DS45 for my E-2, because the digital numbers were starting to break up on the old one. I hoped it would be compatible with the existing transducer because all the connections were the same. I connected the new unit and got no reading, so I hooked the old one back up and got no reading on it as well, even though it worked before I hooked the new one up. I called Standard Horizon and they said that it was compatible but there could be a break in the line or the transducer had failed.

I don't want to haul the boat if I don't have to. Any suggestions or similar experiences out there?

Jeff

Skipper "Pride of Cucamomga" San Pedro, CA
 
Cary Diehl

Cary Diehl

Moderator
You could easily have a break in the line somewhere... or the transducer may have gone bad.

Follow the line foward to the transducer and see what you can't find...

Worse case, you can buy a "puck" transducer that reads through the hull... (Standard Horizon model bought from West Marine is about 60 bucks.) saying that the hull on ericsons are solid, you should have no problem using one of these.
 
C

cruis-n

Member II
Just a suggestion

How about connecting up the new transducer to the new instrument head and lower the new transducer over the side? No need to completely submerge it (don't want to get water in the wiring). That should tell you if there is a problem with the original transducer/instrument head. It's possible that the old transducer may have damaged the instrument head. You could also try the inverse and try the new transducer with the old instrument head. That may help point to the problem.

Because these things work with untrasonics, I'd make sure the power is off to the instrument until the transducer is in the water (just barely). The water absorbs the energy from the transducer and keeps it from potentially burning out. Don't know how big a problem it might be but it can't hurt to be careful.
 
Cary Diehl

Cary Diehl

Moderator
The in hull puck I am talking about only needs a layer of thick dish soap put between it and the hull if you wish to test it before actually mounting it to the hull. I prefer to use these for depth readings now a days, because it doesn't require a thru hull fitting. Plus it is cheaper then a new thru hull type transducer.
 
Jeff Asbury

Jeff Asbury

Principal Partner
Good news, it now works.

Wow, thanks for all the great advice. Good news, it now works. I went back to check the entire cable and when I plugged the new one back in it came right up. Saves me a unnecessary haul out. I'll now know how to test it for future problems.

Thanks again and may you all have beam reaches!

Jeff
 
jreddington

jreddington

Member III
Yeah, I did the dipping depth sounder bit the end of last season when my Datamarine transducer went bad. I took out the head unit and brought it over to Dockside Electronics to verify that part was OK. He didn't charge for the test but his money selling me the replacement transducer. Installed it over the winter. Haven't bee able to launch yet:esad: so don't have final confirmation that everything is OK now, but the transducer did operate in "dipping" mode.

I don't think that turing the unit on with the transducer out of the water, at least for only a couple minutes can do any real damage. I'm sure I've had the transducer out of the water several times last season. Now you get me nervous.

At least the new transducer has an insert arrangement, like the knotmeter, so if I do ever have to replace it in the future it's theoretically just a quick pull, quick insert, and mop up a little water from the open insert.
 
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paul lasker

New Member
transducer and/or depth finder problems

we had our depth finder go out. Just blank no readings. We first though the transducer was haywire. The easiest thing to do was to take off the head unit and send it in to be checked. West Marine sent it back to Garmin for a cost repair cost of $70.00. They didn't fix the old unit but just replaced it for the $70. It was 2-3 years old at the time. The orgional unit cost about $300. We hooked it up and everything worked great.
We have a transducer that goes over the side of the boat. We installed it by making 2 stainless steel rod holders that fit on the transum. In the rod holders we have a ss rod that is 30" long and on the bottom of the rod the transducer is fixed with 2 nuts and bolts. All the wire\ is under the floor and cockpit. We had to purchase a 20ft cable for the transducer. Some times we take the transducer out and clean it up. It gets sea weed clams and all types of stuff on it but the t ducer keeps on working. we have had it out of the water for weeks and it still works. What I like about our set up is that we did't have to put holes in the boat, it is easy to take out and clean. you can also ajust the depyh of the t ducer
 
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Bob in Va

Member III
Electrical Gremlins

A buddy of mine who owns a motorcyle shop once told me that it had been his experience that about 90% of all electrical problems are connector problems. His technique was to unplug, unscrew, loosen all connectors, check them out for corrosion, then reattach and try the system again. I have found it to be true in automotive and boat situations, too. It is consistent with the philosophy of checking the easy stuff first.
 
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Nick Reynolds

Member II
Electrical Connections

To further comment on connectors, spray all connectors with WD40 as you check them. This reduces existing and future corrosion. I swear by it. I think the motorcycle dude is absolutely correct, and specifically grounds tend to be the worse offenders.
 
R

rgoff

Member III
I never tried WD40 on electrical connections. However, you can buy a "contact cleaner" from Radio Shack specifically made for that purpose.
 
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