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Stiff transmission shifter

Navman

Sustaining Member
The shift lever at the pedestal is getting to be nearly impossible to put into and take out of gear Without much effort. I have greased the shift lever coming off of the engine but it is binding up again after only a short period. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
 

Navman

Sustaining Member
The cable age is unknown. I’ve had the boat for 10 years now. Sounds like she’s getting a new cable. Any tips on replacement? I have noticed in the past that the cable was xtra long and had to be coiled. Is that normal?
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
The cable age is unknown. I’ve had the boat for 10 years now. Sounds like she’s getting a new cable. Any tips on replacement? I have noticed in the past that the cable was xtra long and had to be coiled. Is that normal?
Most experts suggest that the cables be replaced every 5 years, so you may be overdue. :)
On our boat the cables were not coiled, and did route to their connections, but I was still able to reroute them to shorten the cables by about a foot or more, with less bends, which increase friction. It's worth a bit of thought to get the best route.
Frank
 

Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
I just had an interesting case helping a friend with cable replacement. Most cables are made by Morse and yard folks call them by their brand name Morse cables. The perplexing thing is that we replaced the guy's cable with a shorter one (we all thought "he doesn't need that stinkin loop in there!" and the thing would not shift. Turns out some of these loops can be necessary to ease shifting because of geometry or construction of the boat angles to the transmission. I cannot imagine a 360 degree loop is right and seems like it would cause problems. Generally the guys at the yard just send the cable to the Morse supplier and get a replacement made up, but maybe you could get a picture of the route of a sister ship and see if your routing is standard. Also, it could be. that someone has put a restrictor clamp on the cable (sometimes they are necessary to keep the cable from moving too easily--mostly on throttle cables). The clamp would be obvious and generally on the cable at the base of the pedestal--and that solution would be easy. But nothing is ever easy on boats.
 

Navman

Sustaining Member
Yes, it is coiled 360*. I’m going down to the boat tomorrow and will be checking the needed length of the cable for ordering. What company do most people use when ordering? I know of Morse but are there other companies also? Thanks for all the help!
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I took my old cables to West Marine. New ones right off the shelf. But today, just Google "Morse Cable" for the many Amazon options. About the only decision is length.
 

alcodiesel

Bill McLean
Yeah.Morse Cable replacment isn't that difficult. I did it when I first got the boat and was all worked up worrying that I couldn't do it. Got mine on Amazon.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
A stiff shift cable was the symptom we had aboard Rag Doll years ago just before the gear shift cable snapped. I would for sure recommend you get right on that - now.

You can read about my experience here:


In our case the problem wasn't so much age, as the fact that the factory ran the cable through way too sharp a bend.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
In our case the problem wasn't so much age, as the fact that the factory ran the cable through way too sharp a bend.
So true. Back in 2018, when we replaced the engine, I found that I could significantly lessen the sharpness of some of the needed curves in the cable routing. The factory guys probably had XX minutes to finish this part of the work, and that led to some unhappy bends in the cables.
I used more cable-tie screws in more places to smooth out the routing. We were replacing the old cables anyway, so that was a good time to study the original routing from the cramped comfort (ha!) of the aft sections of the boat... ! :rolleyes:

More EY trivia -- Steve's photo shows the cable secured with a fabricated metal strap with a piece of black electrical tape to line the inside against the cable(s) . Identical to the way they did this stuff when they assembled our boat in 1988. (I equate this to the use of metal "plumbers tape" to hang all sorts of piping.)
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Maybe it should be added that there's nothing wrong with a long cable. Sometimes that allows gentle bends, which is the goal. Of course they shouldn't be coiled like wire, but a direct route isn't as important as preventing internal friction between case and wire caused by a short radius.

Also, Internet wisdom says cables cannot be lubricated. They're cheap, replacement is required.

Also, Morse cables are push-pull. A common problem is how they are fastened. The jacket is what is clamped in place so the internal wire can move. Inside the pedestal, the jacket is held by a set screw that commonly loosens or falls off. At the throttle or shifter end, the jacket is held by a specialized fitting which can also become loose. If there's an issue in either case the cable won't work because the whole thing moves.

In photo #3 below, that clamp has a ridge on the concave side (unseen here) that fits into the groove on the jacket to secure it.

...Ped Morse set screws.JPGthrottle w cable.JPG...shifter 2-001.JPG
 
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