Thank you for this, sir. I think you're right, it seems like copper as it appears greenish.
Strange Hole on my Bow
- Thread starter Jimmyvix
- Start date
Thank you for this, sir. I think you're right, it seems like copper as it appears greenish.
kloebereng
KWKloeber
Some have (and its on my list) to install some sort of screen to keep larger gunk away from the drain and blocking the end of the tube.
jtsai
Member III
Reenforcing the anchor drain stem is one of my spring projects when the boat is on hard for bottom job this coming spring. I was lucky with access from the inside of the hull two years ago with a few modifications as noted in the following posts. This repair done was less than perfect due to limited access. Working from outside hopefully will be a longer lasting repair.
ericsonyachts.org
I plan to pick a warm day when the adhesive or whatever you use can be injected through a syringe then thoroughly fill in the gap between the hull and stem. I may insert a rod into the stem coated with lubricant so the adhesive does not end up in the stem and the rod can be removed once the adhesive is cured.
My sailing area is the Pamlico Sound where the protected anchorages are known for sticky gooey muck. I accidentally poked through my repair this year trying to clear the clogged anchor drain. The screen placed at the bottom of the anchor well was ineffective, so thoroughly flushing the anchor rode and the anchor well over and over again is now the routine after a cruising trip.
32-3 access hole to anchor drain tube and anchor well construction
My 1990 Ericson 32-3 has a 5" access hole to the forepeak (picture #1). Through this access, reaching behind the V shaped fiberglass structure (picture #2) I am able to touch the leaky drain tube but unable to work on it due to the awkward angle. Enlarging the access hole is one of the options...
I plan to pick a warm day when the adhesive or whatever you use can be injected through a syringe then thoroughly fill in the gap between the hull and stem. I may insert a rod into the stem coated with lubricant so the adhesive does not end up in the stem and the rod can be removed once the adhesive is cured.
My sailing area is the Pamlico Sound where the protected anchorages are known for sticky gooey muck. I accidentally poked through my repair this year trying to clear the clogged anchor drain. The screen placed at the bottom of the anchor well was ineffective, so thoroughly flushing the anchor rode and the anchor well over and over again is now the routine after a cruising trip.
Might be a good idea. All I have to do is figure out how to do it.
Some great tips here, thank you!Reenforcing the anchor drain stem is one of my spring projects when the boat is on hard for bottom job this coming spring. I was lucky with access from the inside of the hull two years ago with a few modifications as noted in the following posts. This repair done was less than perfect due to limited access. Working from outside hopefully will be a longer lasting repair.
32-3 access hole to anchor drain tube and anchor well construction
My 1990 Ericson 32-3 has a 5" access hole to the forepeak (picture #1). Through this access, reaching behind the V shaped fiberglass structure (picture #2) I am able to touch the leaky drain tube but unable to work on it due to the awkward angle. Enlarging the access hole is one of the options...
I plan to pick a warm day when the adhesive or whatever you use can be injected through a syringe then thoroughly fill in the gap between the hull and stem. I may insert a rod into the stem coated with lubricant so the adhesive does not end up in the stem and the rod can be removed once the adhesive is cured.
My sailing area is the Pamlico Sound where the protected anchorages are known for sticky gooey muck. I accidentally poked through my repair this year trying to clear the clogged anchor drain. The screen placed at the bottom of the anchor well was ineffective, so thoroughly flushing the anchor rode and the anchor well over and over again is now the routine after a cruising trip.