The all important galley sink drain hose to thru-hull...
- Thread starter 1911tex
- Start date
Seems to me that any good quality hose will work. I see no need for wire-reinforced since pressure or temperature isn't involved.
It's the seacock connection that counts--a good seacock and two very secure hose clamps at both ends of the hose.
It's the seacock connection that counts--a good seacock and two very secure hose clamps at both ends of the hose.
It might depend in part on the installation sequence. Mine had very old heavy wire-reinforced tubing of some sort. But the run is so short that the heavy hose could not bend significantly in that length. Either the through-hull or the sink tailpiece had be be removed to get the tube out. Actually, I cannot remember what I replaced it with, without looking. l think the black corrugated stuff from Shields. I used the heavy Shields sanitary tube (black w/ green stripe) everywhere in the head, and it's so heavy that the lavatory sink actually bent before the hose did.
On our model, the hose from the sea cock only goes upward about a foot where it meets the plastic 'T' that picks up each side hose for the double sink drains. That is potentially worrisome because that joint is barely above the waterline. I use a translucent hose with solid plastic spiral reinforcing from a local industrial hose supply vendor. As noted, lots of reinforced hose would do fine, and it does not necessarily have to be like the "exhaust" rated black hose material.
Other than making sure to double-clamp, just remember to *always* turn off the galley drain valve when you are off of the boat.
Another safety feature not usually mentioned is periodic replacement. Below-waterline hoses should be ID'd with date of install, and replaced every decade. It's a preventative maintenance procedure. Just write the month and year on it with a 'magic marker', just like you do on the shell of your spin-on oil filters.
Other than making sure to double-clamp, just remember to *always* turn off the galley drain valve when you are off of the boat.
Another safety feature not usually mentioned is periodic replacement. Below-waterline hoses should be ID'd with date of install, and replaced every decade. It's a preventative maintenance procedure. Just write the month and year on it with a 'magic marker', just like you do on the shell of your spin-on oil filters.
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1911tex
Sustaining Member
The tube I want to replace is a heavy gray flexible tubing between the single galley sink drain and the thru-hull valve. The sink drain tailpiece metal female threads are in very bad shape and the male threaded metal attachment clamped to the hose is so poor, they will no longer mate. The hose has to be cut to remove it...therefore, the hose will then be too short to stretch between the thru hull and new sink tailpiece.
For what it's worth I posted the setup on my boat:
ericsonyachts.org
Head (toilet) Hose Connections Ericson 381
Here is what I believe to be Ericson factory connections. Those who wonder why anybody would bother to post this for posterity can harken back to Easter Day, 2020, when the Covid 19 plague closed society and nobody had anything better to do. A (photo below): Left hose goes to holding tank...
Don't know if the same as in the 35, but the white hose in the 32-3 shown here is the sink drain. Confirming what Loren wrote, it's 35 years old, hard as a rock, and beneath the waterline. Note also the surface cracks in the black raw water inlet hose at the right edge of the photo. I'm in the process of replacing every fuel, coolant, and bilge hose in the boat.
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1911tex
Sustaining Member
Tin Kicker that is the same type hose I am referring to ....mine must also be original. The only difference is the type of thru hull valve. Same very cramped difficult cabinet in the 35. This very important space with all the below water line thru hulls is used very frequently, I don't understand why more room was not in the factory design.
1911tex
Sustaining Member
Christian, it is amazing the difference in the head setup between the 35 and 38. Like a different manufacturer.For what it's worth I posted the setup on my boat:
Head (toilet) Hose Connections Ericson 381
Here is what I believe to be Ericson factory connections. Those who wonder why anybody would bother to post this for posterity can harken back to Easter Day, 2020, when the Covid 19 plague closed society and nobody had anything better to do. A (photo below): Left hose goes to holding tank...
supersailor
Contributing Partner
A galley sink drain nearly put Terra Nova totally under water. The water level inside the cabin was above the dinette level. The primary problem was that the PO had used household under sink drain equipment and the upper hose connector had slid off the tailpiece. Because the hose was flexible, the hose dropped and the bilge started filling. The pumps were overwhelmed. The hoses need to be secure top and bottom and the hose needs to be stiff so it doesn't droop. Take a look at what can happen with my thread Terra Nova flooding on page 4 of the Life Style and Living section. Terra Nova suffered tens of thousands of dollars damage but I was able to bring her back to life with a huge effort. I don't want that to happen to anyone else.
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I used wire reinforced hose after reading about Bob's partial sinking. I found it at our local hose supply store Premier Rubber and Supply. I used this type of hose at all thru hulls. When I got the boat, the cockpit drain hoses were the original corrugated type as Tin Kicker shows above and very near failure where they had been chafing on a stringer. These hoses were connected to the sink drain always open thru-hull and would have sunk the boat if they sprang a leak. The new sink hose is very stiff and if it comes off it won't drop below the water line. In this photo I had not yet installed all the hose clamps. I separated the cockpit drains to new thru hulls under the stern quarter so I can now keep the sink thru hull closed most of the time.
1911tex
Sustaining Member
Great point, and that is why Loren Beach, bigd14 and others have repeated.....CLOSE BOTH THE RAW WATER TO ENGINE AND GALLEY DRAIN BELOW WATER THRU-HULL VALVES BEFORE LEAVING BOAT ! I have a small check list chalk board with my lock hanging on it. Check lists are (almost) as important boating as they are in the left seat in airplanes. Also saves an unnecessary !@#$%^ return trip to the marina, if you get the drift.
Yikes! - that's some pretty ol' school hosing - just imagine all the gunk that's built up on all those nice ledges and the interesting microbial consortia on each level.Don't know if the same as in the 35, but the white hose in the 32-3 shown here is the sink drain. Confirming what Loren wrote, it's 35 years old, hard as a rock, and beneath the waterline. Note also the surface cracks in the black raw water inlet hose at the right edge of the photo. I'm in the process of replacing every fuel, coolant, and bilge hose in the boat.
Yank that hose outta there!
I had that same Factory corrugated hose on my galley sink too. It was one of the first hoses I replaced because of its poor condition.
BigD14 could get away with using stiff, thick-walled hose because he has a proper, bronze thru hull bolted to a backing plate--bulletproof. I was concerned about using stiff hose in a tight bend in that location. A tailpiece on top of a Marelon valve creates a long lever to side-load an old nylon thu hull fitting, which gave me some concern.
The diameter of that hose is the same as many automotive radiator hoses. I searched for radiator hose with a similar bend but wound up getting a corrugated, "universal" radiator hose. It's not as thick as I would like, but I figured radiator hose is designed for heat and pressure, so thought it would be okay.
I always close the thru hull when I leave the boat.
BigD14 could get away with using stiff, thick-walled hose because he has a proper, bronze thru hull bolted to a backing plate--bulletproof. I was concerned about using stiff hose in a tight bend in that location. A tailpiece on top of a Marelon valve creates a long lever to side-load an old nylon thu hull fitting, which gave me some concern.
The diameter of that hose is the same as many automotive radiator hoses. I searched for radiator hose with a similar bend but wound up getting a corrugated, "universal" radiator hose. It's not as thick as I would like, but I figured radiator hose is designed for heat and pressure, so thought it would be okay.
I always close the thru hull when I leave the boat.
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supersailor
Contributing Partner
I used Trident 101. When a boat is surveyed, the surveyor looks for marine rated hoses. You get dinged for radiator hoses.
Discovery's sink drain line is T'd to the cockpit scupper. I have always hated this setup but put it on the back burner while trying to find a better solution. Well, having sanded the bottom down to the gelcoat, it is time. I am going to replace the 1" ice box drain line thru-hull with an 11/2" thru hull. That will allow me to user the standard Tridant sani-101 hose.
Mark "Souleman" Soule
Mark "Souleman" Soule
Now THAT is a disturbing site....
Hi Sean,
I always cringe when I hear the story.
Mark "Souleman" Soule
I always cringe when I hear the story.
Mark "Souleman" Soule